It won't run "right"...never has and never will. It has low compression in #3 cylinder, its not "expected" to run perfect, just have an even idle ALL the time.

How can I NOT ignore it. What do you want me to do?

 

The vacuum test was a joke. How can you tell if your idle goes up if it's always going up or down? It's like trying to find a vacuum leak when someone is driving in stop and go traffic. I haven't done anything since. I probably does...no doubt. I can see a hole in one vacuum line, and another is REALLY cracked. I figured its fine since it doesn't matter if its plugged in or not. Since I have a "decent idle" I can test this more effectively.

 

Thanks bud, but this has already been solved...I am now trying to figure out why my idle moves. When I hot rod it it goes down, when I drive slow and normal it goes up...

 

How do you heat up the water around the temp sensor? Maybe stick it in a pan while heating it to 180 or so degrees?

 

O.K, I tested it, it seems like its out of specs...unless I just completely SUCK with a multi-meter...which isn't surprising. It was at 20k ohms and read like .32 at 210 degrees then read .14 at 170...I think it was off. I'm not entirely sure. I'm going to price a new one and I might just buy it...just because

 

Tested it AGAIN. Seems like none of the readings are even close. Hmm, its weird. I'm thinking its completely shot. I sure hope so.

Here's what it affects;

The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the coolant sensor and measures the voltage that returns. By measuring the voltage change, the ECM determines the engine coolant temperature. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold and low when the engine is hot. This information is used to control fuel management, IAC, spark timing, EGR, canister purge and other engine operating conditions.

It affects A LOT of things...too bad it doesn't affect compression...LOL

 

Change the sender and let us know. But I'm willing to bet it won't help that much if at all.

 

So whats your theory then? Other than my having low compression...that isn't going to change.

I need to replace some vacuum lines though...there are a couple that scare me.

What exactly do you want me to test or do? I can't fix the compression right now.

 

You've already heard my theory and a few tests you can have done, which you don't want to do.
However, I'll recap it for you. You are not going to get the 'even' idle you want until the cylinders' compression problems are rectified. Did I mention engine vacuum and 'leak-down' tests? You may get some semblance of "quality" but from what I've garnered over the past few weeks, you could replace the whole injection system with brand-spankin'-from-the-factory new equipment... from senders to throttle body, exhaust and everything... and it won't make you happy.
If you don't have, or don't want to spend, the money then say so and I'll leave you alone.
Until you decide to fix the whole engine, you're only putting bandages on the wrong wounds.

 

The idle will never be as it should. It works though. Have you EVER tried spraying starting fluid on hoses while an engine is idling erratically? It doesn't work worth shIIt.

Unless your talking about hooking up a vacuum gauge (which I DON'T have) My best bet is to unplug the vacuum line going to the booster, which my truck then dies. If I had a major vacuum leak I would say my truck wouldn't run nearly as close as it does.

Leak down test? So, you want me to find out if its my head or my rings? Its my rings...I could have told you that MONTHS ago. Unless you have some great theory stating that machine shops can't do valve jobs. I've put oil into that one cylinder and watch the compression spike. If you want me to do it again...I will.

Its not the fact that I don't want to spend the money...its the fact that I DON'T have it. If I had it I would definitely fix it. Unless your going to send a check or free parts my way I would definitely fix it...other than that I am going to leave it alone and TRY to fix the idle problem.

 

Anyone can make a mistake, machine shops included. I had a head for a VW Transporter I once owned come back from a 'nationally renowned' Volkswagen air-cooled engine builder here in Southern California which was warped. So, ANYTHING can happen... maybe there was a bit too much lapping compound on a valve and it hid the slightly bent valve stem? Can you say with 100% certainty that did not happen? The only way to eliminate it is to test it. I will say though, that if putting oil (by the way, what weight oil did you squirt down? 10W-30, 20W-50?) into the cylinder ONLY results in 60-70 PSI compression there is something else wrong other than rings.
Maybe the ring tension is weak, the ring-lands or rings themselves are seriously eroded from detonation (you did say there was a previous head gasket problem right?). Maybe the ring end-gap spacing (a.k.a. 'timing', not to be confused with ignition timing) is wrong- end gaps should be 110-130 degrees apart from one 'land' (ring- compression, scraping, etc.) to the next... or maybe 180 degrees separation between ring gaps for high-output short-lived/frequently rebuilt engines.

Ya know, either way, whatever I say, you're looking for a band-aid when you really need stitches. So do what you want and spend what you have and don't complain if it's not enough. Engines depend on airflow to work and if the pistons don't create the proper airflow for the rest of the system to operate, the rest of the system doesn't operate properly.

That is all.

*peace*

 

O.K, heres my problem.

I owe my brother approx. $3k. He wants his money. I'm 17, and have a summer job about 12 miles away. I will be riding my motorcycle to work.

I am getting $600 back from the gov't for tax returns or whatever that thing is.

So, I can hopefully explain to him that I really need to do this to my engine. He thinks that since it seems to run fine although it has low compression in that one cylinder that I should just drive it like that. If I keep driving it how it is I won't have an engine it all. If I fix it now, I will have hopefully many years of enjoyment.

So, should I take it out and rebuild the engine?

I highly respect your knowledgeable replies because frankly you know MORE about this subject than I do. Never rebuilt an engine in my life...so it will be an experience.

So, ultimately, I have to wait till I get a break in money. If I can convince my brother then I will be in business.

So, what do you think I should do?

Oh, I've never had head gasket problems. I still have the old head gasket. I took it apart to fix it but I put it back together because I thought taking the ONE piston out would be a big deal. So I put it back together and had over heating problems, oil leaking (it stopped!), the idle, and I still have the low compression. So, whatever you think I should I will try my best to get it done...sound like a plan?

I'm not ignoring what your saying. I know its not right to "band-aid" my problem. I need to ultimately take out the engine and fix the REAL problem...that is the biggest problem...because it not only causes rough/bad idle, but poor fuel economy and performance.

Thanks, and sorry if it seems like I am so arrogant. I am young and dumb...LOL

 

Don't know what to say.
You can drive your engine like it is, indefinitely actually, as long as nothing else goes wrong like head-gasket (again?) or worn cylinder (deja-vu?). So maybe you can make an arrangement wit your bro and give a few bucks and work on putting together the kit to completely rebuild your engine.
I see 'shops' on Craigslist, and the Pennysaver too, that offer rebuilt engines with 3yr warrantees for 900 bucks. If I stopped smoking I could save that up in 5 months.

Did I read you correctly? That you thought taking one piston out would be a big deal? Oh MY! All you had to do was remove the oil pan, unbolt the rod bearing cap and push that sucker out of the top of the engine, maybe ream the ridge (the 'step' that occurs at the top of the cylinder bore in an worn engine because the rings don't go all the way to the top). In the heavy equipment industry, it's called an 'in-frame rebuild' when you don't have to pull the engine block. Pull the piston, measure the cylinder bore, maybe hone it out and install new rings... another 300,000 miles for a Cummins for a day's work.

 

Yeah, I probably could drive it the way it is. Head gasket never blew. I stopped working on my truck when I saw the oil pan. I started loosening it and I said F' this and I tightened them and put everything back together. I had the rings, hone, gasket, everything to do the job. I know what your talking about. The grove at the top. The weird thing is is that the #3 cylinder had a weird grove in the middle of the bore all the way around. Usually they are at the top but this was a minor grove in the middle. Not sure why but it was there...lol.

Anyway, Cummins the best!!! I so wanted one of those trucks. I tried so hard to get one. I just couldn't afford one...so I bought this POS!

Anyway, how much do you think it will cost for a rebuild (master or not) or just simply replace the engine? Thanks! Or should I just drive it like it is?

 

I see rebuilt 22re's on ebay and craigslist for about 900 with a 6 month warrantee. about twice that price gets you 3 years from autozone, kragen/schucks, etc. Installation is on you.

are you 2wd?... if so that's sad 'cause you've really only got to drop that crossmember between the front wheels (4 bolts) to get the oil pan out. It's a PITA but is possible without dropping the steering.

by the way, you're only 'young-and-dumb' if you do the same thing over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and over...
... and over again ...
... before you turn 25.

 

LOL...yeah. It's a 2wd...I feel REALLY dumb right now. I saw the x-member and said F' it.

There is this guy selling rebuilt 22r's I think for like $1k. I might look into that.

 

That 20 second -f-it may have cost you a well running ride.
OTOH, you've learned a lot recently.

 

Sure have. Oh well, life goes on. Now I just need one of my friends to roll there trucks again lol...to bad my last friend sold his engine

Why is it necessary to have a 4wd? I told both my friends and they both said that if they didn't have 4wd they would have been stuck. I call BS. I say 2wds will do A LOT. All I need is a limited slip and I bet I could out wheel BOTH of them. (2004 chevy 2500 6.0 4x4/1996 Toyota t-100 3.4l 4x4 bald tires/1995 Dodge 1500 long bed extended cab 4x4 5.9l) I LOVE 2wd's...always have. I don't feel right driving a 4wd. I say 90% is the driver...the other 10% is the vehicle. I'm a very good driver. Doing burn outs, drifting, driving on snow and ice, has REALLY payed off.

 

My experience is that you only need 4wd to get you un-stuck from what 2wd gets you stuck in. But then again I only have to drive un-maintained fire roads to cell sites.
And yet then again, there are people that go rock climbing... so explain to me how you're going to pull yourself over a rock if your front wheels ain't got swing...?

 

Haha I remember that days of my 86 2wd, fun little truck, went muddin with my 4wd buddies, just had to be a little heavier with the right foot. Not lifted and had worn out A/t's on the back and street tires in front. But since then I have had an 87 4x4 and now have an 85 4rnr. SFA baby! You will love 4wd if you ever get one.