Yeah...thats true. I think I must have accidentally removed that screw...mostly because it never got stuck like that (sticky feeling throttle) when I bought it. I did put a screw in just barely so it won't shut and stick all the way...it runs better.

I'm trying to figure out what I want out of this truck. I have a senior project next year (I'm a junior!) and I would like to combine what I am going to do with my truck with my senior project. Kill two birds with one stone!

Here's my ideas;

My first idea is to lower it, locker, 4wd fenders, fix engine, HD clutch...and thats pretty much it.

Then, my second idea is to Rebuild the engine, make it better, add a turbo/or supercharger (sounds cooler...lol), and pretty much just drive it like that.

My third idea is to pretty much fix the engine and make it a prerunner...lol

What do you think? Am I just crazy?

 

I didn't read this entire thread but here's a list of things that would cause a high idle and the fix in this case...

"I took off and cleaned the EGR and verified that all the vacuum lines were routed correctly. My idle is still fubared - even worse with the colder temperatures.

Here's a re-cap of what's been done...

TPS adjusted and working correctly
Fresh coolant - burped properly
New Thermostat
Vacuum lines routed correctly
Coolant Temp sensor replaced
Throttle body thoroughly cleaned
Throttle body swapped with another one (to test the idle air control valve)
Dashpot cleaned and NOT sticking
Throttle cable lubed and NOT sticking
Timing set at 5 degrees
No check engine codes
Idle screw is IN the entire way

And like before; if I'm crawling or idling for a long period of time (15 minutes or so) my idle will gradually drop to where it's supposed to be - I even have to adjust my idle screw out a few turns."

Final outcome of this was that one of the small coolant lines that goes to the temp sensor was plugged with 'stop leak'; this means the un-circulated coolant was just sitting there and the EFI computer always thought the engine was cold which is why it idled high - this took me almost 6 months to figure out!

 

I think I am officially done with Toyota today. I don't think I can get drive one or for that matter get near one. I don't think I can handle it anymore.

 

Would you like a pistol? I don't have any, but I'm sure this guy will loan you his....

 

LOL...I think I just need to do like 50mph and ram straight into a pole...and hopefully end the life of a Toyota

I don't know. Its just really depressing. The idle is all fubared up again. I have to adjust it. I think its turned all the way down again. Maybe I have an air bubble? One of my vac lines popped of while driving. It just sucks.

 

I know it does, but there's not much you can do to get any real consistent behavior until that compression issue is resolved. A dead cylinder really makes a motor run like crap. In the meantime relax about it. You'll just plummet into a dark hole and wind up drinking too much coffee and smoking too many roll-your-owns.....like me! LOL! Nah...actually, I'm fine. But, I still drink too much coffee and smoke too much.

 

LOL...your too funny.

Anyway, I feel like an idiot and I'm now happy at the same time. So, did you happen to read my overheating thread?

I bought 2 thermostats and my truck still over heated. I drilled one hole in it and now it works fine. So, whenever I hot rod my truck the idle goes down...meaning the valve closed up more and the coolant got hotter. When I get off of the free way my idle is surging and 1600-1800...and the valve is I am assuming open more. I hope I got that right. I think I need a dual-stage thermostat really bad...

Does that seem plausible?

 

Needing a new thermo....d-stage or not....no. Obsessing.......yes.

So, you're hot rodding with a dead cylinder and overheating issues? I think you're subconsciously determined to kill this motor...lol!

I need more info before I can say what's going on, so I'll find your thread. I don't believe it's the thermostat, though. I've run single stage "Stant" thermo's from NAPA for years without overheating issues. Only intermittent temp-guage overshooting in the winter. I fixed that by drilling a hole.

I wonder....is your fan clutch/water pump in good shape?

 

Now I remember.....you're overheating thread, I was there.

Okay, so you're not overheating anymore....correct? But, the idle is surging or the motor surges while accelerating?

The t-stat has nothing to do with what's going on with your motor. I'm tellin' ya man.....dead cylinder. Fu'get about 'et..

The t-stat opens and stays open when the coolant is hot. It's suppose to, anyway. If it shuts when it's not supposed to, it's because somehow the coolant rapidly cooled.

 

No, I'm not overheating. But if I set my idle, after I just got off of the freeway it will be fine. If I start to hot rod it, or get on it, the idle will be less. Then, when it cools down it will be rise. The hotter it gets the lower the idle, the colder, the higher.

My dead cylinder isn't recent. All I'm saying is that what I am thinking is that stupid valve is causing my idle to move all the time. Unless it can be caused by a thermostat with a drilled hole in it. I've never been looked at so weird in my life. My brothers both think I am stupid because my thermostat does NOT open until it almost reaches red. Just ask the Honda faggot, he'll tell you that his car does it all the time. Ask the other idiot, he'll just say "well mines not messed up, theres no way 22re's have that problem"

Anyway, besides the dead cylinder, if I cant get it figured out now how the fuuckk am I going to get it figured out later? My fuuucking butterfly stop screw keeps falling out and I have to buy a new one.

 

Relax, guy...we'll figure it out. There's only so many possibilities to rule out. Okay?

Now....
What those guys don't understand is that where the t-stat is located within the 22re cooling system design it creates the situation of temperature guage overshoot. There's even a Toyota Corp. technical service bulletin about the issue....which is why they retro designed the dual stage thermo. I'll see if I can find the TSB on it. Then, you can show it to them and make them eat it! HA!!!!

I said the thermo is not your problem because it does not do anything to control idle. It opens or shuts within a certain temperature range only to regulate flow of coolant....and, it's just not that sensitive to minute changes. Coolant sensors are and that's where they come into play.

Realize an idle speed is also affected by the timing advancement by the ECU. If a person has a bad coolant temp sensor, for example, the ECU...not being able to correctly detect the temperature of the engine and not knowing whether it's at operating temperature or not....will try to compensate by advancing fuel pulse and spark timing. But, then, on the other hand, it may retard the timing and lean the fuel. It goes both ways in a seesaw fashion because the input for temp is not correct. It's more or less the same for any sensor if the input to the ECU is not correct; TPS, O2, knock, etc. The ECU controls timing from sensor input. Hell....I'm kinda surprised you're not throwing any codes, personally. Apparently, your ECU is managing fairly well even though it doesn't really seem like it because it's running so poorly.

Through all of this, have you ever tested your coolant sensor? It is potential source for what you're seeing. Rule it out. All you have to do is pull the intake tube and possibly the top rad hose off and reach down there with a wrench....19mm...and take it out. (The going will be rather slow, as there's not much room for turning a wrench. But, you can't get a 19mm deep socket over the sensor connector, so that's your only option.) Then, plug the hole with a cork or something, if you don't want to drain the coolant first. I wouldn't, so I wouldn't blame you if you didn't. Take the sensor, put it in a pot of water with your ohm meter connected to it and slowly heat the water. Watch the meter. The resistance should start high and smoothly lower as it heats. If so or not, there's a possible problem you've ruled out.

Did you know an incorrect idle can be caused by a malfunctioning dashpot? Or one that is totally unoperational? It would be without an adjustment screw. How long have you been missing the throttle stop screw and dashpot screw? Before or after the dead cylinder? I seem to recall you saying they weren't there when you got the truck. Was the cylinder dead when you got the truck, also?

I can only guess the reason your stop screw is falling out is because you don't have the nuts tightened well enough or you're only using one OR you don't have any nuts at all on the screw. There should be one nut on either side of the threaded hole for the screw.....just like you have with throttle cables. They tighten in the same way to keep the stop screw (and DP screw) set in place.

You can get some generic screw and nuts at O'Reilly or someplace similar with the same length, diameter, and thread pitch very cheap. They come in packages. All you need to find out is the dimensions and you're set to get them. The FSM should have those specs, if no one 'round here knows them offhand. I don't know, so I will see if I can find them.

Like I've said, let's address the throttle body and get it straight. This is the simplest part of your idling. It's the fine tuning or basic setting apart from ECU and sensor involvement. You have to control the amount of air that is allow in or not allowed in with a closed throttle plate. There are specific settings for all of it that can be manipulated/adjusted, but let's start where they should be from factory. Rule it out! Unless you have vacuum leaks, this the only way air can get through to even create an idle and it must regulated.

I'm only going over all of this with you because I trust what you're saying is true; even with a dead cylinder, the idle...at one point... was fine. However, even the FSM troubleshooting guide lists piston ring as a major culprit. With the hot rodding and constant driving, they and the consquent detriments only get worse.

BTW, not everyone else's vehicle runs like a dream. You know I just rebuilt my 22re, right? Well, I've had issues since before the rebuild and now they've gotten a bit worse. So, guess what. After going over a number of different pain in the butt testing and repair procedures, I pulled off the AAV today and found one of the terminals at the back of the valve switch was almost completely corroded away. HA! So, now I'm in the market for another AAV. (The pre '89 22re AAV's are remote from the TB mounted under the lower intake and have an ECU controlled thermal switch to open and shut the valve. Different than yours that is integrated with the TB and instead has a thermal wax type valve....no electrical connector. My 22re is an '86)

Okay....I've typed enough....whew!

Later!

 

Let me reply to this later. I'm late for school.

I now have a throttle stop screw AND a dash pot screw. I bought the truck with a dead cylinder. And the idle is not perfect, it is a little rough, not bad, but you can tell it's running on three cylinders. I've got to go...lol

 

Hmm... after hot-rodding/flogging it with a weak cylinder, the idle drops... could be a few things happening.
The weak cylinder could be sealing a bit better due to oil splashing around, fuel on top of the rings and such. This 'temporarily' increased efficiency of the weak cylinder could cause the ECU to receive signals from the O2 that the mixture needs adjusted and could cause the idle to drop then return to an elevated idle speed once the cylinder returns to (ab)normal.
The weak cylinder may cause the engine to run hotter under increased load. This could be due the increased work required by the other 3 cylinders to move the weak one, or because of the ECU leaning the mixture out due to all the unburnt fuel exiting the exhaust side of the weak cylinder since it's not combusting properly thus causing the other cylinders to run hot. Because of the heat, the ECU is retarding the timing to cool things down and this will lower the idle.

Sorry if you think I'm obsessing about the weak cylinder. But, unless you're trying to make it run better just so you can offload it on some unsuspecting victim, I don't get why you are not obsessing over it. Especially since everything that you're working on really depends on those four pistons working as well as they can, or at least all working equally poor.

 

I get what your saying, but I drove it for 3k miles and the idle was perfect. All I'm saying how it was, and what it is now. The weak cylinder IS a problem, although I don't think it will majorly affect the idle. As what it is doing. Im not going to sell my truck because I have one weak cylinder. I have $2k dollars into this truck. If I sell it, maybe I can get $1000, so I lost a thousand dollars. Or I could rebuild the motor for maybe $1k and then I would have a really reliable (I hope!) truck.

 

Lol...that would be nice...I would be right for once

O.K, that makes sense...so probably something else then

Yes, I know that things can get all screwy and cause the idle to change. Like the ecm changing the timing a little bit and advance it and so on.

Check engine light does work, and I am VERY surprised I have NEVER seen it come on. LOL

Never tested my Coolant Temp Sensor. Thats a very good idea. I am going to do that soon...because it is such a good idea. It's nice to know if its working anyway.

I think my truck used to have a throttle stop screw. Because I noticed that the wrench that came with my truck happens to be the SAME exact size as the nuts to tighten the stop screw/dash pot. When the throttle shuts all the way it is really jerky feeling. You can definitely feel it. I have since drilled it out (I stripped it) and put a bigger screw in and it is NOT coming in or out with out a LOT of help...LOL

Yes, what I am saying is true. The idle was never "perfect" but it did idle, it was a little rough at 750 or so but when it was a little higher it was just fine.

I know what you mean by yours has no electrical connector, but mine doesn't either? Maybe it is an old system and you got lucky not to have it.

And nice find! Congrats, thats what I need to happen...LOL.

Yeah, you typed a hell of a lot. Thanks a bunch!

 

If you stop and think a moment... that weak cylinder isn't sucking in and burning air and fuel the way the others are. That means that some of that unburnt fuel is going out the exhaust and foobaring the other 3 three cylinders... and the fact the cylinder isn't sucking in as much as it should is also f&cjung up the other 3 cylinders as well since some of that unburnt mixture is being pushed back up into the intake.
How can you expect the engine to run fine when one cylinder is at LEAST 50% below the others... (I exaggerate: 60 PSI is like 35% of the rest)? So you've got 100% of the load spread across 3 cylinders... which means that each cylinder is doing at least 15% more than it would have to were there that one extra cylinder that you seem to want to ignore.
Let's correlate this: a 427 vette get's 1/4 lost... that's like 320.25 CI working for the vette. do you think it will run right?
Does it have a snowball's chance in h3LL against a 350 vette?
I'll venture to say that the one cylinder not working is affecting your engine performance, idle, economy... at LEAST 25% since it is one of 4, 1/4, 25%... stop me if you're falling behind. Now figuring that you don't think that one cylinder is worth much, that means that 75% of your cylinders are doing 100% of the work. More work=more heat. More heat=????



Given that, I don't see any way you'll get the rest of the system to any more than 75% fixed.

 

I get your theory yes.

But still, how the fuuck can my truck run right with LESS compression in that one cylinder but NOW the idle is all fuuckked up since I have MORE compression in that one cylinder. Just because you have a theory about something does not make it true. I can't explain why the sky is blue. Can you explain why I have bad compression...I don't think so.

75% is better than 0%

 

So far I haven't heard you say the truck runs right. One thing or another foobars what you're doing.
You complain about idle speeds not being right, warm / racing idles being fine but when it cools off the idle is high...
On the other hand, I CAN explain why the sky is blue.
However, I just can't explain why you ignore the bad compression in one cylinder (one fourth of the engine) and expect everything to be fine.
Let's go snowboarding and you get 18" of snow board. Explain to me why you can ride.

 

1- stop trying to separate the induction system from the rest of the engine.
2- the cylinders share what comes in through the throttle, even if one of the cylinders pushes (a.k.a. "PUKES") back into the intake
3- the ECU is designed to compensate for FOUR cylinders, not 3.

What was the result of the vacuum test I suggest a couple of weeks ago?

 

You have a sticking idle control valve or no ot water getting to it. This will keep the air bypass open and give you a high idle. If idle goes past about 1500 rpm wiht no throttle pressure, it goes into fuel cut (ECU shuts off injectors) then idle drops, injectors turns back on and this happens over and over.