take the lines in and out of the egr off and make sure there not clogged, put them back on how you took em off.
then just get a new egr and change it yourself?

 

Easy enough to test all the lines hooked to the EGR. Just pull them off and try blowing through them. EGR can be cleaned to some degree with a gun/pistol cleaning kit, use the solvent and small brushes to clean out the insides. A new EGR is not all that much money, I think I got my last one for a little over $100 from Toyota. There are a couple of gaskets you need when you replace them, but nothing makes the EGR unusable after it is removed.

 

Hey check napa auto parts. Idk, i got a toyota one for my v6 for like $75.

I would send you my old one since i think it works but its for a v6 not a 22re

 

Hey Nick, Sorry to hear about the smog problems... I don't know much about the EGR but it looks like a easy enough thing to swap. Let me know if there's anything I can help with.

 

will do bro. thanks everyone. ill let you know what happens

 

well, my hands are too big to remove the EGR valve. im thinking if theres no way to clean the EGR while its still attached to the vehicle, im just gonna take it to the smog guy and take him up on his offer of 250 and it passes guarenteed.

 

In vancouver we got aircare it's basically the same thing. I used to do these repairs all the time when I was in tech school and on the side.

High nox is created from high heat. The EGR helps reducing heat levels by allowing exh gas back into the combustion chamber at cruise speeds. The readings you posted show high nox at low speed levels and they don't go up much when your at 25 mph. I'd probably say your EGR is fine right now. Really your failing right when you start up the vehicle before the EGR even starts doing it's job.

A buddy of mine in Tschool had this Kcar he got for free that was doing the exact same thing. We started researching it and we found another cause of high combustion temperatures is combustion chamber carbon buildup.
Buddy parked the car and took out the spark plugs. He then bought a few bottles of carb clean and every morning and night for two days he sprayed the inside of each cylinder down using the little straw that came with the bottle. It worked and he sold the car a couple weeks later for like 1500 bones.

It's worth a go carb clean is pretty cheap and I don't know how much it is for a smog test but aircare is like $45 a go.

 

oh ya, if you try the carb clean idea don't go easy on the carb clean. Every 4 cylinders he used a bottle.

 

thinking about it, yeah... high combustion temps cause excessive NOx emissions. the EGR is designed to introduce exhaust gasses into the intake in order to displace some of the oxygen and consequently lower combustion temps and the production of NOx.
If you're getting high NOx at low RPM's, which the EGR is not designed nor intended to do, there is something else going on.
As mentioned, you may have some heavy carbon deposits on the pistons or chambers, or you may be running lean at low RPMs.
What are your other emissions readings? (HC, CO, CO2)

 

Just brainstorming on the above post here. If it was lean wouldn't it be running cooler? I kinda had the impression a cold start valve was used on start up to get the engine running rich to help the engine reach operating temperatures faster.
These are the things they don't really tell you in FSM's.
I'd really like to see the other readings now.

 

lean mixtures tend to burn hotter.
think about an acetylene torch- you add O2 to make the hot flame, no?

 

ill get the piece of paper tomorrow. and hopefully we figure out that the EGR is NOT the problem, so i can take it back. but when i disconnected the EGR vacuum, the engine speed did NOT change, so im thinking EGR. anyone back me up? i need this thing registered NOW!! lol

 

man.... my arguementative side totally wants to keep this going but when I think about it a lean spark plug is a burnt looking one. I'll have to learn to accept this one.

 

Seriously man ..did you read my post?
The EGR is not supposed to be working when only running at 15 mph, or idle, or accelerating.
If it is (and it clearly isn't or you'd be complaing of misfiring) then it is broken. It is only supposed to be doing it's thing when in cruising speed like 25mph.

You failed on idle or low speed..that is not the EGR's fault. It is something else. Think about this, NOX is high combustion temperatures. What else causes high combustion temperatures.

Go back and read my post again....slowly lol. Sorry if I'm offending eh.

Try this
http://autorepair.about.com/od/gloss..._egr-valve.htm

Before wasting any money on a new EGR I suggest you sit down and try to understand how the EGR actually works.

 

i also cant blow through any of the lines. and the truck IS throwing an EGR code(71)... so if its not the EGR, what can it be?

 

Unless your blowing through the lines while at cruising speed your not gonna be able to blow through. The egr solenoid isn't energized and your blowing on the egr diaphram when you should be sucking.

Maybe your egr isn't working properly. But even if you replace it your still gonna fail smog. Did any other codes come up? like maybe a MAP code (if your vehicle has one).
Remember the facts....you failed on NOX before the EGR was even being used.
Put the rest of that info up.

 

put some premuim gas in it from shell, chevron or 76. drive it for 30-45 min. nox will go down 30-40 %. mine did the same thing. worked for me.

 

In a cold engine, the fuel tends to puddle or form droplets (condense) instead of remaining in a fine mist (atomization). Due to that, more fuel is needed in a cold engine to get consistant combustion. The cold start system performs functions analogous to the choke on a carburetor, but the choke limits air entering the engine in order to enrich the mixture.
Once the engine is warmed up, the fuel tends to vaporize more easily thus less is needed. It's the vapors that burn, not the liquid.

Lean mixtures also have a tendency towards pre-ignition / detonation. Also, if you're familiar with diesel engines, particularly turbo'd, exhaust gas temperatures are directly related to air / fuel ratios. Too much air and the EGT goes up. So maybe that'll help you make up your mind.

EGT temp sensor?

 

 

hopefully you guys can make sense of it. he took the original one, and i didnt get it back. instead he gave me this one. anyone?