I need to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold on my 92 4Runner with the 3.0 still under the hood. If anyone has suggestions on how to best access the hardware, it is appreciated. So far I've got everything related to the EGR removed and 5 of the 6 nuts off. My issue for removal is the last one, it's the front one on the bottom. It's tough to access. My hope is that I don't need to remove the power steering pump. My thinking is that installing the replacement will be an equal pain. Let me know if you can help. Thanks.

 

I dont know for sure but from my experience with that damn 3vze you will need to remove some other stuff... its like a chinese puzzle box

 

Try jacking up the engine a few inches to gain some clearance.

Also, try removing the access panel in the fenderwell to see if you can snake your wrench up through there (its held on with 4-5 10mm bolts IIRC).

 

I would personally move the PS pump out of the way. Its 3 bolts. Remove that, take out the bolt holding the AC line, then move it which ever way you want. It would be even easier of you took out the battery and put it over there. then its a piece of cake, plus it's easier to put back on.

Good luck!

 

I agree with 24Runna. Removing the PS pump isn't that hard, compared to just about any other method.

And get the battery out if you haven't already done it! You'd be surprised how much access that opens up.

(I assume you have already figured out how to disconnect the crossover; not that hard, but really takes an odd shaped ratchet.)

 

Thanks so much for the tips. The access panel is out, but the battery is still in. I'll get that out of there. For some reason I was thinking I'd have to remove the PS pump completely, not just unbolt and shift out of the way a little. That's cool I don't have to remove any hydraulic lines. If I just need to remove the passenger side manifold, I don't think I need to screw with removing the crossover pipe, right? Thanks again.

 

You will still have to remove the crossover pipe. The manifold need to pull straight out away from the head to clear the studs, and in order to do that you have to remove the crossover pipe from the back of it. that, or remove the studs from the back of the manifold

 

The upper most stud on the manifold is missing since the lobe broke off, plus one of the lower studs is sheared off about half way. Now you know why I need to replace it. Removal will probably be OK without removing the crossover. However, I just started thinking about installation. Oh what a pain. I may look at removing the studs from the manifold, but they be a bigger problem. Thanks for the reality check.

 

Got the manifold off after moving the PS pump and AC, but leaving the crossover pipe in place. Installation will not be so "easy". What do you think about removing the studs from the manifold and then using hex head bolts with lock washers as replacements? If that's out, what's the best wrench to use for removing the crossover pipe from the driver's side manifold? An odd shaped ratchet is mentioned...what does that equal? Thanks again for the help.

Update: So I decided to remove the crossover pipe from the driver's side. All I had to do was remove the frame mounted shield/panel, intake pipe, manifiold heat shield, engine hoist hook before getting creative with my quiver of wrenches. I was equally creative with my use of cuss words. I get the manifold gasket set tonight. Hopefully I can remember where to put back everything. My driveway and garage look like I'm having a 2nd gen. yard sale. Seriously. This one project has me wondering if I want to keep this rig.

 

I used the Harbor Freight 1011-3VGA [which is discontinued !!!], which is a flex-head ratchet with a bend in the handle. I think the key is the flex head part, and those aren't hard to find.

 

To hell with that crossover pipe! I'm so glad I don't have one of those anymore.

 

im glad we dont have emmision checks

 

thank god for pre-egr bs emissions stuff! yay.

 

I started putting everything back together last night and at the end of the night I was missing two bolts for the AC/PS pump brackets. 10mm fine thread hardware isn't the easiest to just make appear. Lucky for me the local hardware store opens early since they close early. Hopefully after work today with minimal time and effort I'll have it all back together with no leaks or other issues. It hasn't been too bad, only a week to replace an exhaust manifold on one side. Kill me.

 

When I did my rebuild, I ended up pulling the crossover, both manifolds, and the heads all as one.

After tearing it down on a bench and looking at the design, I ordered a set of headers and threw all that crap in my shed.

I was so happy to install the headers and not have to deal with that funky exhaust design.

Mike

 

That's something for me to keep in mind. I'm sure something will blow soon enough that will require a complete tear down. I'm interested in the exhaust solution once you go with aftermarket headers. What did you end up with?

 

So I got everything back together last night with exception to the intake pipe. I planned on starting the rig up and taking a few minutes to clean the throttle body so I left it off. Well it wouldn't start up. I messed around with it for about an hour trying to figure out what I had done wrong. Never figured it out so I committed to tearing it back apart this morning. Now I didn't get to the level of disassembly for the manifold replacement because I eventually gave up since I was so pissed off. I checked some of the wiring and even rewrapped some of it to make things look better. One last attempt to start it failed to have any different result. I decided to put the intake pipe back on and be done with it until I had settled down, another day. Well I thought to myself, why not try it once more. The POS started right up. WTF? The only thing I can think of I did was reinstall the upper section of intake pipe. Wow, if the truck running depends on the intake pipe then I'm puzzled. Maybe there was something else I did while putting the pipe back in and am not remembering. Anyway, it's all good...for now.

 

By intake pipe, do you mean the flexible portion that jumps from the throttle body to the Air Flow Meter? I believe that the engine will not run without the pipe installed. The computer is looking for the flapper in the AFM to move. If it does not, then it does not register airflow. Anyone else know for sure?

To answer your above question, I put Downey headers on the 3.0 and had a local shop do a crossover from the P-side to the D-side under the trans and front driveshaft. They join together and go into a 2.5" high flow cat, then out into a 2.5" in/out Flowmaster 70 series, then 2.5" out the back.

Mike

 

OutlawMike is correct. There is a measuring device to calculate the amount of air coming into the engine. When you crank the engine it is taking in air, the flap will move slightly and the ECU makes adjustments, ect. No movement, no start.

NEVER run the engine with out the air filter. You can't start the engine then clean the TB, you have to do it with it off.

 

Alright. I feel like an idiot and releaved at the same time.