What I see on the wiring diagram is that it is a switch that goes to the COR. It's my understanding relays are opened by voltage not amperage. But, it's a switch and should read continuity. As AKHeathen is saying, the contacts aren't good. I would think it would do it all the time, which is why I stated I think it would be OK.

 

the opening relay uses spring pressure to open the fuel pump circuit. if amperage was not a factor, you could rub a sweater on your carpet and actuate all kinds of relays, lol. amperage isn't as great as like the starter, but it is important. according to the readings, at 13v, it's like 722ma passed through the switch max, and 666ma at 12v. average relay coil would barely work, if at all, but cranking the engine should get it started and pressured good.

 

you could always put a paperclip in the fp port of the test connector when it happens and see if that fixes it, then you know it's the vafm contacts.

 

Understood, didn't mean amperage wasn't a factor. And don't mean to hijack or argue. My point was, why doesn't it do it all the time. Jumping the test connector is a great idea if you can make it stumble. Don't leave it in though! (for scope103)

 

lol, i'm just being an ass..... facecious by nature, lol.... not arguing either, but no good discussion is unchallenged. think of it like a starter solenoid going out. you turn the key once, and it barely moves, but you keep clicking and it catches passing good current and works fine. yeas, the paperclip jumper is to diagnose. you don't want to drive around with that in for both safety, and to save your fp/reg from burning up.