Here it is, SC....

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...ner&vi=1272204

 

Yea, that's the same one I have. I got in my kit from ENGNBLDR, it just doesn't line up very well, maybe the EGR flange is different on my 95. Anyways, I got it all bolted up, I'm sure it's fine. I have all the vacuum lines back together. All that I need to do now is:

Half moon seals (Do I use just the RTV grey? around the half moon and slip it on?)

Valve cover: PCV valve, the 4 grommets etc...

Adjust valves/timing
New cap/rotor and seals.
Bolt on AC compressor, Alternator, belts, fan, radiator.

I'm getting close to starting it up though!

 

AWESOME!

ok,............

1. YES, you use Gray Sealer on the round part/bottom of the half moon and on the corners(on each edge , on top , where the half moon meets the head, just before installing the Valve cover.... You can put on the RTV for the round portion whenever you want, then just slide them into place). The "corners" application is JUST ENOUGH, ... not a big blob, ... maybe the amount of a pencil eraser on each edge on top, k?

2. WIPE TEARS OF JOY WHEN IT STARTS RIGHT UP! WOOT!

 

Lookin forward to it. I have spent more than I could have gotten a remanufactured engine for at this point, but I've learned so much more. Don't know what I'll do next time around. Driving my dad's 2.7L taco is really nice and it's 1000 lbs more.

 

It's about 1000 more horsepower, too! hahaha. Still... I doubt there's a better engine than the 22re, SC... I've had them go 350K without any major rebuilding... one still had the same HG at that time!

But yeah, ... I'm a 3VZ coveting man! lol. One day... but it'll be going into this, most likely! lol. Heck, by then, it will be some 7VZE123-Twin Turbo-300HP-33MPG Sucker that everyone wants, ya know? hahaha.

 

I actually really would like to part out my BMW and take the M52 and transmission and build a straight six powered prerunner.
Right now with the tune I am making about 200 HP,200+ ft-lbs of torque to the wheels.
The motor loves to rev and be driven.
I get almost 30 MPH highway and 25 in the mountains if I don't get stuck behind anyone (it gets bad mileage going slow hehe). My buddy would kill me if I dismantled his dream car though hehe. Also, I imagine the wiring would be hell. It's a long motor, I am guessing there is more than one fitment issue. It is one nice motor though, BMW has the straight six down to an art. I don't know how well it would hold up to the beating of offroad though, I have a feeling it wouldn't like being jostled around a lot.

 

30MPH??????? SLOW DOWN FOR GAWD'S SAKE! hahaha. ... Jk,.. obviously know what you meant... sorry, couldn't help it, hehe.

Yeah, that sounds MEAN! However, ...I'd probably go with a Z-Series JDM 7MGTE, as I know they work, many write ups, plenty of power, made to be jostled around... and then I'd still have a Toy Heart in her! hahaha. But yeah, even that would be a pretty decent amount of work/figuring. If I can just find a motorless/transless nice shell 85 for the job, CHEAP, like so many on here seem to do... well, then I'd grab it and take my time, couple years even, getting it PERFECT! Can't say I still wouldn't wanna do the 3RZ though... seems like a really solid, powerful lil 4! Good mileage too!

My buddy has an 85 Xtra Cab with a 5.0 stanginstein Swap... IT'S SICK! And it's one of the later ones... the thing gets better mileage or at least the same as mine!GRRRR! lol.

Hell, even my Brother's LS1 Camero,99, get's 22-29mpg!!!! WTH? lol.

 

Well I'm sure it's they're in the exact same boat as me in my BMW. It's all about maximizing efficient use of torque. Going uphill if I maintain about 40-45 MPG, I will get a solid 22 MPG up a steep hill around corners, BUT if I get stuck behind someone who brakes for every corner 10-15 MPH and then speeds back up into the straights, I lose a lot of MPGs. I pull a solid 29 MPGs straight, flat freeway at 70MPH. I averaged 27 MPG from Santa Cruz to Yosemite including going up Old Priest Grade and the long long 120 hill climb, it just bombs right along. The one thing it really doesn't do well is city driving, it's too low, bumpy, and I'm liable to be rear ended because of the race brakes. As well as getting terrible MPGs in stop and go traffic.

This is opposing to my 22re where no matter what I did I got 22-21 MPG, uphill, freeway, driving fast, driving slow, city, highway, upside down, etc... So I figure to just drive it like I stole it, since it doesn't really seem to change my MPGs anyways.

The one rule I have with my cars is I never, ever rev them above 3k without oil temp, judging by the wear on the internals I saw it really seems to help. In my truck I wait 7 minutes because it's got 1/2 the oil the BMW does and a less efficient cooling system. The BMW takes about 15 minutes to reach a decent operating temp, it has real gauges to track this info though.

 

7MGTE I imagine would be an excellent choice as well, but I've never had a chance to see one in action. I was not terrible impressed with the NA supra I rode in, but then again the car weighs like 3400lbs vs 2700 lbs. That could have been the real problem with the Toyota I6 power plant hehe.

 

Maybe something was wrong with that supra? I owned a Rare Z-Series Motor Cressida...... 84...... that of course was a 5MGE? It was a sleeper, man.... and WAY more power off the line, top end, etc., than this 22re, 3.0's I've been in and even the 3.4 my buddy has in his Limited 4runner...lol. My friend had a later model Supra Turbo, 7MGTE.... he had very lil mods into it.... and it FLEW, SC... Very fast for what it was. What year Supra was it you were in?

 

BTW, ... ANY NEWS? I'm biting my nails here for your 'fire up time'! 10, 9, 8, 7,................ WOOT! lol

 

Hey, the supra I rode in was an NA 90s one, it was just really slow, just because it is a heavy car, you really need the turbo model. Start up time will be soon, I'll be sure to film it. I'm hanging out with my wife today, it always bugs her when I wrench all weekend haha. Maybe Sunday or Monday.

 

Progress, frustration, kicking myself. Words of the day.


Here is where I left off, also have all the wiring under the truck back in.

I realized I forgot the alternator tensioning bracket, the one that is bolted on through the timing cover. I go to pull the bolt out, throw the bracket on and put the bolt back in. I thread it in by hand and go to torque it and feel the threads strip. Very annoyed, I pull the bolt out to find that the guy who worked on my truck before did a little rearranging of my timing cover bolts. My fault for not double checking every thing he touched, I thought it would be simple enough not to bugger up something like that, but apparently not. Anyways, I am hoping that the threads in the block are not damaged and just the bolt because so few were engage. I measured the bolt to be 2.5 inches, so somewhere else is too long as well I guess. Not sure I want to take that battle on if there are no leaks. Ordered a new bolt from the stealership and hoping it all works out ok, if not I will be helicoiling my block which isn't something I wanted to do, but what are you gunna do... Never letting another person touch my truck again.

 

Ummmmmmm, .... I'm thinking you've not been on my build thread too much, lol. I only say that, NOT BECAUSE I'm wanting you to now.... you have your own problems, lol... Rather, I'm saying it because, .... the machinist I gave my motor to obviously didn't have that bolt(it comes off with my Alt bracket and I didn't want him bottoming it out, RIGHT? So what did he do? Looked up the length(MAYBE?) and then inserted a bolt there that was obviously too long. How do I know this? He cracked my block face, which I didn't find until I took the timing cover off a second time, and after getting "the right size bolt from Toyota", torquing it down, etc.

When I pulled the cover, it looked like this, plus the piece that was stuck to the cover, missing in the pic>>>



You can see it's 'fractured' around the block face in a circular way, right?(theory of most machinists/block welders I took it to was, "He bottomed it out with the wrong bolt length, caused a fracture you couldn't see, ...then, when you went to re-install it again, ... it cracked/separated... THEN, when you pulled the cover off, that piece stuck to the OEM-FIPG and came right out... Which wouldn't have mattered, it would not just 'stay in place', anyhow".... ) Then, as I picked just lighly around that, I was left with this....>>




I AM NOT trying to freak you out, ......to a point. What I'm trying to cause is an URGENCY in you to be VERYYYYYYYYY CAREFUL! lol. Feel me? If it was just too short, .... you're probably ok, ...it most likely just stripped the bolt and lightly stripped the threads a lil. Maybe ask around if you should "chase it, carefully, first", then "try to get the 'called for' OEM bolt in there, ya know? I was basically told, "What it would cost for me to do that right, REALLY well, the best that I could, smooth as butter... welding on a block? You might as well dig into this motor at that point..... Sounds like this guy did EVERYTHING wrong so far... why take a chance when you can get another short block for 100-150$?" .... So I did, with the crank, etc. NO WAY am I saying that's what's in store for ya.... I REALLY doubt it's gonna go like anything but 'butta'~! lol. Just be careful, and better yet, PLEASE, ask around a lil, first, before you just force another bolt in there, ya know? This hole, SC? It's separate from the rest of the 'solid block' of metal. It's attached, sure, but look at it... Another short distance and you reach air, ya know? Even if you had to tap it out/heli it... I'm sure you'd be fine since your bolt was too short(right?)

Sorry if I just ticked you off, ... I PROMISE I don't mean to, SC... Just that I'VE BEEN THERE, ON THIS VERY BOLT, ...and I probably wasn't careful cuz a bolt never stripped.... Mine just wasn't grabbing cuz the block threads where already separating, ...make sense?

 

May I ask where you're supposed to measure the bolt from, just to confirm it is in fact too short. I measured from just below the head, the entire length of the bolt including the area where the washers sit. I'll call Jerry this morning and see what he thinks, but as you can see very few threads were engaged, so hopefully an equally small portion were damaged on the block or none. Hopefully the bolt is softer steel than the block.

 

yeah, you measured right. basically put the ruler's "0" against the head and measure down the shaft/threads

(length "l")

 

he definitely did a little rearranging with my bolts then, the only one I really checked was the one that goes through the oil pump and comes out the back of the cover. Stupid me

 

Talked to the guys are 22re Performance and they said because so few threads were damaged to just thread the new bolt in real careful, make sure it's going in nicely and torque it down gently, but it does need the full 29ft-lbs. Hopefully it all goes well, if not I guess I'll be helicoiling it and hoping for no leaks

 

Hopefully you'll be fine, SC... My problem arose when the guy used a bolt that bottomed out in the bolt channel(which caused it to grab hard where the timing cover met the block, which gave way when I hit 20# or so because all the pressure was distributed to that portion at the edge of the block).

Jim and Jerry have done HUNDREDS, AT LEAST, of these... I'm sure they've ran into this on occasion. Did they mention anything about chasing out just the first few threads just to 'check' with a safe/channeled bolt that could pull/force out any thread in there that's just hanging on by a thread, out through that channel/groove?

Far as the lengths, ... I get mixed up with so many threads/rebuilds I'm following(yours and 3 others are my fav's though! lol).... and I thought I'd posted 4crawlers diagram of bolt lengths for the timing cover......

 

Again, ..... I hope my post didn't upset ya, man! .... Just wanna share what I've experienced/found through going through every bolt on this motor 3 times in a year, in hopes of saving someone a real headache.....especiallyyyyyyy over one bolt! lol.....

Post up asap how it went well, k?