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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

EB Street RV *check* 261 Cam *check* 22re blown HG *check*

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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 08:45 PM
  #201  
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Ok, couple things, SC, ........

First, .....how long did you let it run? 10 minutes?

Second, .... are you saying that you continued to start it up and run it, drive it around maybe, and it's still smoking, muchhhhhhh later into running(having run for more than an hour, maybe?

Third, ..... Far as a CAT? I knwo you don't wanna hear this, ....but it's CA, buddy, .....especially SC-Free the Trees-CA! (Not that there's anything wrong with that... just saying. Even many of the smog stations up north are VERY critical of anything wrong). NOW, .....sure, you COULD get one from a yard, ....if you know how to inspect them, rap on them for rattle, look through it with light, ...but really? Any CAT worth a crap in a Yard is usually GONE, Dude, .... again, IT'S CA! lol. Those rats hit the yards FAST, ....they scrap em for MUCH more than they paid to get in the yards, ya know? Maybe you could ask a yard with a counter? 3-way catalyst with either a CARB Stamp or Original Part number..... (Sure, some stations don't check that heavily.... but you know how it is... IF you fail, you gotta pass within a certain time? )

I got my Magnaflow Mildly Higher Flow CAT for 170$ at O'Reilly's... And 3 people have sent me "thanks" on that tip, as they've saved, in some cases, even 50-100$?

Smoking, SC, can go on for quite a while, especially before you burn everything out of the cat, ...YES! And sure, if the CAT is really clogged up(how did you verify this?) then it could backflow to the head....which you DON'T want. It starves flow and causes blowback, robbing power, etc., ...and I would imagine is not great for a new Head, etc.(not gonna hurt it, SC, ...not that quick, ..just saying, you want to solve everything in the exhaust asap, at least ensuring flow, ya know?) But anyway, ..... even coolant in the CAT.... I mean, within minutes, SC, that thing is 600* AND MORE! I really doubt anything in there would last too long, ya know? But oil, grease? YEP, that can take a few minutes, did on mine(mine took about 5-8min. to stop smoking off the motor/header).

You can drill a hole after the CAT and read the pressure/flow coming from both sides(can't remember exactly how they do it, but it's a fairly simple test to verify these expensive CAT's are either done or good to go, ya know?... DEFINITELY on Youtube, seen it many times... they read the before pressure through the 02 Hole?).

What you could do, just to verify that's not blowback or whatever due to the cat is remove the pipe at the collector and see if it smokes like a pig then? I mean, .... if it's all from the CAT(after you've run it for around 1 hour, done the first oil change, etc. of course), you should be able to rule out that theory quick if smoke comes pouring out of the collector still, right? (Just give the helper some ear muffs, k? lol).

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Aug 26, 2011 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #202  
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PS> SOUNDS GREAT, MAN! I'm really stoked for ya, ..... you did a great job, no doubt!!
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #203  
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Hey, so I just ran it for 10-12 minutes total, drained the oil and inspected it. It's got a fair bit of reflective specs of metal in it, so I figure it was good to get it out. I just used cheapo valvoline 4.59 a quart hehe. Next I'll run the royal purple through and change it again after an hour or 2 of run time. Then I'll go back to valvoline and run that for a 500 miles or so and go to back to Mobil 1.

I will spend some time this weekend figuring out what's going on with the smoke. I'm not really sure what's causing the smoke, but my manifold is definitely isn't sealing up very well. I need to order a few parts from toyota, so maybe I'll try to get those seals from them and see if that does anything.

The thing that confuses me and makes me think it can't be a clogged cat is that, right before I tore it down I ran the truck one last time and it made steam out of the exhaust, but it wasn't coming out of the manifold, which was missing bolts, so if anything it would have leaked even worse. It might just be PB blaster all burning off of the manifold since I did use a lot of it in the tear down. Especially around the bolts, which would make it look like it's coming out the seals. I also used some ARP assembly lube, hoping it would make it easier to take it apart next time. I'll give it some more run time to see if that's what's going on and it all burns off.

I'm excited it actually sounds like it's running pretty good, even with my guesstimator timing.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #204  
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Sorry, that all kinda contradicts itself, just thinking out loud to myself, or so to speak.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:02 PM
  #205  
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Thanks for all your advice and wisdom along the way Chef. Also, a big thanks to Irab and Lumpy! Can't leave 92Toy's thread out, that's what gave me the courage to take this project on. I will start another thread that consolidated all the tips, tricks (that were posted up here by you guys) and mistakes I made.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #206  
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My pleasure, and sure, give it a lil time, SC.... 20 minutes more or so? THEN, try the 'disconnect at the connector' and such. And if you're not SURE the CAT is bad, ...heck NO, don't just buy one! Not even used, k? lol. Mine had 257 on it and still passed smog!!!! But it WAS restricting flow a LIL bit, enough to where it was pulling in the baskets/screens on the end(the motor side). So, ..... for now, get it ready to roll and then start ruling things out.

Far as the rest... yes, ... lil strange that you had no smoke from there with a leaking HG... but that doesn't mean you're not just burning off whatever water was left in there/since the HG. I doubt it, but we'll see, right? Can only be so many things, SC, ...that's the beauty of it! lol.

Again, CONGRATZ, Yota-Brudda! lol.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 04:29 AM
  #207  
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i don't know if it applies here, but you said you used an oil for disassembly? could just be that stuff burning off. it happened to me because i had soaked the header in pb-blaster.

anyway, you got your engine running, so:

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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 07:03 AM
  #208  
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Yea, I used a ton of PB Blaster on the manifold, I'm going to go spray some on some metal and heat it up and have a smell and compare to the smoke coming from the engine bay. I bet that's what it is. I'm pretty stoked it fired right up the first time, no check engine lights or nothing
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 07:06 AM
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don't forget to check for codes, too. i had a tps code, so i just reset the ecu and it went away. some codes don't make the cel come on
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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So I finally managed to find a friend with a timing light. I jumped the terminals, the light just flashed non-stop, I'm not sure what that means?
I adjusted the idle to about 750-800 with the idle screw.
With the terminals jumped I set the timing to 5*BTDC.
I took the jumpers out, I had to readjust the idle because it was very low after I took the jumpers off.
Then I put the timing light back on and it reads 10-15 degrees BTDC, is this normal?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #211  
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Basically, is the timing supposed to be 5*BTDC at idle only with the terminals jumped, or all the time?
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #212  
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Need to readjust the valves, I think I might need new adjusting screws, they are a bit worn.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #213  
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Also, engnbldr calls for in: .007 and ex: .009 on the little paper that comes with the head/cam, does he mean cold or hot? I'll email him about that too, but he can be slow to respond.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:26 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by SCToy
So I finally managed to find a friend with a timing light. I jumped the terminals, the light just flashed non-stop, I'm not sure what that means?
I adjusted the idle to about 750-800 with the idle screw.
With the terminals jumped I set the timing to 5*BTDC.
I took the jumpers out, I had to readjust the idle because it was very low after I took the jumpers off.
Then I put the timing light back on and it reads 10-15 degrees BTDC, is this normal?
constant blink with no pause = no codes

10-15 btdc = normal (iirc)

.007 & .009 at opperating temp

5 btdc only when jumped (iirc)

sounds like you're good to go!
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #215  
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Looks like i'm ready to bed brakes and smog/register it then. Awesome
Oh, no smoke this time, i think the PB Blaster all burned off.

My guessimation timing was 3* BTDC with the terminals jumped, can't get much closer than that by luck hehe

Last edited by SCToy; Aug 29, 2011 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 09:02 PM
  #216  
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GREAT! Really great to hear, SC!

Far as timing, it's 5*btdc, .... when jumped. Should jump UP in idle rpm a bit when you pull the jumper out..... ??? (did you just type that wrong?) HOWEVER, .... with the 261 CAM, .... would bet if you ask Tod at engnbldr he would say, "Meh, 8* or so, maybe even 10* sometimes, while jumped, seems pretty happy for these cams"... I know Tod and his Dad, Ted seem to disagree from time to time... But I believe 8* is right on for these cams, from everything I've read/asked and been answered by the guys that grind em. .007 and .009 is correct, as Ian said, .... and I believe that, since it's a lil tighter than stock.... well, it's engaging a lil earlier and for a longer duration, thus, the timing... IIRC, lol.. But you'd do well to ask Tod, so you could feel comfy'est about the timing. Yeah?

STOKED FOR YA, MISTA! LOL.

"Constant blink = no codes"... SC, are you speaking of the CEL blinking? Or the timing light. I was thinking you meant the timing light... in which case, yes, that's exactly what it's supposed to do... it's giving you the ignition time of spark, and you adjust the distributor to bring ignition to whatever degree before TDC that you find it calls for.

Far as CEL, it should blink 1 time every 2.5-4 seconds or something like that(can't remember off hand). That is normal. If it blinks 7 times, then pauses, then 1 time, then pauses, then back to 7.... well, then that's a 71, not a normal, lol.

Could you clarify on the 'BLINKING' light portion? lol.

Aside from all that, ...again, I ALMOST SHOUTED 'WOOT' when I read this! lol. is that a toyota jones or what? hahaha.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 09:17 PM
  #217  
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CEL light blinking constantly, ill play with the valves and timing again tomorrow before I go smog it. Also need to bed the brakes in the morning while I can get someone to help me bleed them again.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #218  
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Next up is replacing all the vacuum hoses, I noticed they weren't in that great up shape, I had to cut some of the splitting ends off for a temporary fix.
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #219  
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where da vids at i want to hear what someone else's 22re with 261 in it idles like...

i advanced my timing quite a bit from 5* and it runs happier for it. i gave up on the lean code after checking for vac leaks many times. i adjusted the afm 2 teeth richer and the code shows up a lot less often. this is likely a bandaid though. the plugs say it's still running lean. the last tank of gas got me 20.2 mpg (mostly city) on 33s, so it can't be too far off
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 11:35 PM
  #220  
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Gotcha, SC!

Ya know, ..... thinking about it, .... you might wanna just stick with 5* for the inspector, .... unless he's someone you know that will chillax on ya? In CA, I've had mixed luck..... And timing IS something they check,.....and they will go off the Hood Sticker(or their book if you're not possessing the sticker, lol)... and that book will say "5*BTDC"... usually, I've been able to have it at around 8* and they didn't care. But show up with a faulty gas cap? FAIL! lol.
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