Here's a better pic.......Without my messy on there! lol>>>

 

Yea, I know, you've been exceedingly helpful. I compared it against the diagram, that's how I know it's almost 2/3rds of an inch short or so. They said it'd happened before, notto worry, just buy a cheapo bolt with matched threads and feel it to be sure it's threading correctly, then put the real one in. I think it'll be ok, I'm crossing my fingers. I know all about the bottomed out bolts cracking things. The guy before me didn't clean out the little hidden bolt hole on top of the timing cover and cracked the piece of the timing cover with the pressure of oil and pinched headgasket he shoved down in there. Tisk tisk

 

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH THE PO'S! lol

 

Wish I could point my finger at the PO, but really it's my fault. I didn't know I could wrench on the motor until the guy I paid to do the timing chain screwed it all up and I blew the HG. Then I decided to take it on it's actually been a great experience. I've learned a lot even though I coulda bought a cheap rebuilt motor by now.

 

Don't sweat it..... You'll REBUILD the rest of it yourself/decide whether to start with a "NEW" short/bare block, find a used block that's not been gone though(Crank untouched, etc.)... and you'll KNOW THAT YOU KNOW that it's done right, for good! Spilled milk never did anything but rot or get licked up by the dog! lol.

Admire your attitude, SC.... it's been great, throughout!

Now KILL IT! lol. (metaphorically, of course! lol)

 

Hoping that te next major project is 22re swap into the first gen

 

that should be easy

 

Success, chased the threads with s hardware store bolt (ironically more expensive than from the stealer). Put the new bolt in and torqued it in 5ft-lb increments to 29 and it all seated nicely.

 

SICK! SWEET! GREAT NEWS TO START MY YOTATECH-DAY WITH! lol. Seriously, ....I'm stoked for ya, SC.... I know that can be the pits, .......the 'WONDERING' how something serious might turn out! lol.

Have a great one, can't wait for that, 'vroom' ACTION SHOT! lol. Video please? lol.

 

Video definitely. I gotta get some ATF for the break in to get any lingering water out. What are your feelings on synthetic vs dino oil for cam breakin. I've got 5 quarts of Royal Purple 5W40 that someone gave me that I won't run, that I am just itching to use up. I was thinking to use it for the cam break in and trash it fast.

 

I wouldn't... personally. I mean, maybe break this cam and seals in for around 5K miles before that, yeah?>>>>

Personally, I would go with CAM lube or some good Assembly lube on each lobe. That, along with priming the oil pump properly and soaking the head dells(pool areas below the srpings) with some 10W-40, then break in with some good ole Castrol GTX 10W-40 as well(been reading that Valvoline has things that prevent proper break in......could be nonsense, but just throwing it out there),....and you should be fine.

The ATF is thinner, but VERY great at handling high pressures(1200# or so in the steering systems in our rigs!)...and it 'TRAPS' H20, ...which will help you carry any that's trapped in the bearings, etc., OUT, with the oil change.

BEST WISHES, MAN! Don't just take my word for it, I understand that, TOTALLY! .... Ask around. I personally did the ATF method with that failed HG, right off the bat, fresh rebuild..... It worked, got it all out WITH THE FIRST FLUSH, ...and I'm nearing 3000 Miles and not a single issue, puff of smoke, leak, NOTHING. Then again,.... your motor is 'broke in, plenty', right? Totally up to you... I'd personally wait a while till the head breaks in properly. Then, ask Tod at engnbldr, ted as well, maybe Jerry or Jim at 22reperformance.com?

 

Alright, I am basically ready to turn the key, just need to hook the battery up and put oil in the thing.

I filled the radiator up and I hear water pouring out of the side onto the ground. Turns out I didn't tighten the little water pipe under the intake manifold. This little guy. Anyway, you can reach in there with a wrench up over the AC compressor if you got some long arms and seal it up.


I'm feeling a little nervous to actually start it up, unsure how break in the cam, time it and unsure if I should take the valve cover off again to put oil directly on the cam and around the head before starting it up. Should probably call jim and jerry up and see what they think.

 

oh yea, gotta put the new plugs, cap, rotor, wires all in too.

 

as long as you got the timing chain on right, and have the dizzy in the right way, you'll be fine. do a mental checklist of anything you might have forgotten.

i felt the same way, and had a fire extinguisher at my side the whole time (didn't need it). i say go for it.

 

AWESOME! I'M EXCITED FOR YOUUUUUUUU!

Nervous too, I feel ya! lol. Good thing to TRIPLE CHECK before firing it up!

Far as the CAM break in..... is it an engnbldr cam or Putney's? Either way, each one will give you a break in procedure, no worries, k? Mine was basically 2200rpm for 30 seconds, 800rpm for 30 seconds, 1800rpm for 30 seconds, 2200 rpm for 30 seconds..... for 20 minutes, just as you've probably read. It broke mine in fine.

If you've NOT turned it over yet, and you DID lube the cam properly before slapping the V-cover on... You should be fine! (CAM lube is prefered, yet many just use 'moly engine assembly lube', like with the rest of the motor)

When you first go to start it, be patient, ... dont' freak out, ...it might take SEVERAL revolutions to prime the Fuel System(it has to get from the pump to fuel rail, build up 33#{or whatever it is, lol} and that's ok, because you want the oil pump to properly prime and feed oil over all the bearings, rockers, etc., before it fires over and reaches 1000-2200rpm, ya know?

 

PS> For the initial timing;

1. As long as you know you've got the Dizzy in properly, leave around 1/4" of space between the mounting bolt and the top of the pivot/slide. This will get you around 5-10*BTDC, most often. It's ok if it's a lil 'imperfect' for break in.... cuz you need to watch the RPM's as you break in this new CAM, etc., ya know?

2. While breaking in the CAM, there's no way to properly set the timing, because you'll be ALL OVER THE PLACE WITH RPM'S... So don't worry, lol

3. Just remember to pull the cover after the 20 min break in and re-check the valve lash and head bolts/stud-nuts, k?

 

yea, I got EB cam, is that the same cam you have? I emailed them asking for a break in procedure, but I haven't heard back from him about it.

 

<<< have the 261 Engnbldr-CAM >>> Go to the site, look up the order desk number and CALL HIM, SC, ...don't sweat the, "ONLY FOR ORDERS" in this case, bud, ....why? >>> BECAUSE HE DOESN'T WANT YOU TO HAVE PREMATURE FLAT TAPPET FAILURE ON HIS CAM! lol.

 

Alright, well I ended up following jim and jerry's advice and just get some valvoline 5w30 and just keep the RPMs up 1500-2000 for 10 minutes. I was a little late on the video because the battery died cranking the motor over with the center wire pulled. I jumped it with my trusty 81
Anyways, so the only concern I have is a lot of smoke is coming from the exhaust manifold where it bolts to the 2-1 piece. Not really sure what kind of smoke it is. It may be from the moly grease I put on the cam? Or oil burning off? I don't know. Other than that I had no leaks that I could see, still need to do a coolant flush, just had distilled water in it. It started instantly though following cranking it while insuring it wouldn't start, so that was nice. It also sounds better than it used to with several exhaust bolts missing. Hopefully I can sort this smoke out, kinda hoping one of you can point me in the right direction.

 

Maybe it's just a massive exhaust leak at the manifold because I have a clogged up cat or something from running so much coolant through it? I'm a little disappointed, but at the same time i am thinking it's time for headers haha. But really, if the smoke is coming from somewhere else, than I will have spent a lot of money in the wrong direction. Any ideas for picking up a cheap Cat? Junk yard or go New?