EB Street RV *check* 261 Cam *check* 22re blown HG *check*
#121
Yeah, see.... 2 tubes traveling from driver side on over to passenger side.... Newer 22re model..... Definitely different than mine, I have only one.
Ian, we both have that coolant pipe that inserts into the center of the intake, vertically... But where does that other pipe hook up?(Not meaning, where does it get secured....rather, where is it feeding water to? lol. I'm curious, thanks)
Ian, we both have that coolant pipe that inserts into the center of the intake, vertically... But where does that other pipe hook up?(Not meaning, where does it get secured....rather, where is it feeding water to? lol. I'm curious, thanks)
#122
Yeah, see.... 2 tubes traveling from driver side on over to passenger side.... Newer 22re model..... Definitely different than mine, I have only one.
Ian, we both have that coolant pipe that inserts into the center of the intake, vertically... But where does that other pipe hook up?(Not meaning, where does it get secured....rather, where is it feeding water to? lol. I'm curious, thanks)
Ian, we both have that coolant pipe that inserts into the center of the intake, vertically... But where does that other pipe hook up?(Not meaning, where does it get secured....rather, where is it feeding water to? lol. I'm curious, thanks)
the top pipe is for the heater, which i'm sure is on all 22r(-e)'s. it's the heater supply line
the bottom pipe is for the pulsed air injection system, which not all engines have
the bottom pipe mounts over top of the top pipe. do not put the intake on until these lines are mounted to the head. it's a pain in the a55 to get them on afterwards. ask me how i know...

aaand that's about it for those pipes
#123
Hey, so I got those pipes mounted this morning, thanks for the pics, I was just scratching my head about how it looked like it wanted to fit behind the filter, but when I removed it I hadn't touched the filter
then it occurred to me that the head was off when head was off when I removed it. So swapped out the fuel filter and got that sucker in. Thanks for sending me in the right direction!
So, today I got the exhaust back on, oil pan on with pickup tube, I used Irab's method, pan in place, layed down the sealer stuff and bolted it up. Just finished putting all the bolts back in place on the front diff and cross member, I am wondering what is the torque for the front crossmember?. Found everything else. Pics to come when I call it a day.
then it occurred to me that the head was off when head was off when I removed it. So swapped out the fuel filter and got that sucker in. Thanks for sending me in the right direction!So, today I got the exhaust back on, oil pan on with pickup tube, I used Irab's method, pan in place, layed down the sealer stuff and bolted it up. Just finished putting all the bolts back in place on the front diff and cross member, I am wondering what is the torque for the front crossmember?. Found everything else. Pics to come when I call it a day.
#125
I believe it's 78#, but don't quote me on that. A good builder I know on here said, "It's all in even the Haynes". My haynes says 123# or something crazy like that for the pivoting diff bolt/nut.... and 100# or so for the other 2 diff mounting bolts... The FSM is the same,......but, ....
I just looked in my FSM, but ran out of time to search..... Toward the end of it, it lists every torque value but that one, that I can see, lol. Most of those that would be similar are around 78#...but I don't want you to snap something off cuz of me, lol. I believe I did mine to 75#. Nothing brokededed! lol.
I just looked in my FSM, but ran out of time to search..... Toward the end of it, it lists every torque value but that one, that I can see, lol. Most of those that would be similar are around 78#...but I don't want you to snap something off cuz of me, lol. I believe I did mine to 75#. Nothing brokededed! lol.
#126
75-80 sounds reasonable because they are about the size of a wheel stud and I do 80 on them. FSM said 61 on the front diff bolt and 123 on the sides. Nothing snapped on that.
Wondering what this air injection does if I get a header. Guessing I block it off somewhere. FYI don't forget safety glasses when using brake cleaner. Just got some to the face and that just plain sucked. Good thing it evaporates so darn fast.
Wondering what this air injection does if I get a header. Guessing I block it off somewhere. FYI don't forget safety glasses when using brake cleaner. Just got some to the face and that just plain sucked. Good thing it evaporates so darn fast.
#128
Hey SC, .....
Factory Service Manual;
Front Diff. Mounting bolt; 108#
Front Diff. Rear right blt ; 123#
Front Diff. Rear left bolt ; 123#
Just so you know that you're 47# off on the front diff mounting bolt.
Problem with going too tight on the cross-member bolts is that there's nothing to stop the nut, like with the sturdy construct of the diff mounting bolt/nut locations, from crushing the frame/cross-member inward on itself. Just like if you put too short of a bolt guide in a shock, then start torquing it down, .... at around 60# it will start to cave in on the bushing and bend the frame-shock eyelet arms on each side that the bolts go through. (Make any sense? lol.... having trouble explaining my concerns with going too tight.)
Factory Service Manual;
Front Diff. Mounting bolt; 108#
Front Diff. Rear right blt ; 123#
Front Diff. Rear left bolt ; 123#
Just so you know that you're 47# off on the front diff mounting bolt.
Problem with going too tight on the cross-member bolts is that there's nothing to stop the nut, like with the sturdy construct of the diff mounting bolt/nut locations, from crushing the frame/cross-member inward on itself. Just like if you put too short of a bolt guide in a shock, then start torquing it down, .... at around 60# it will start to cave in on the bushing and bend the frame-shock eyelet arms on each side that the bolts go through. (Make any sense? lol.... having trouble explaining my concerns with going too tight.)
#129
gotcha, hmmm, I'll have to check the FSM I was looking through again, I wondered why it was so much lower. I haven't torqued the crossmember yet, I'll feel it out tomorrow. Thanks.
#130
Yeah, fuuuuuuuuggetaboutit! lol.. What I mean is, I CAN'T FREAKIN FIND IT in the FSM, lol. I also can't find my Haynes, .... if you have one, It might be there, as the Haynes asks you to remove the crossmember for a couple procedures.
Best wishes,man, ... really excited for ya!!!
Best wishes,man, ... really excited for ya!!!
#132
#135
Well I got the brakes done and then went to get the studs for the intake manifold out of the head and just stripped the double nut I put on them. So spent th afternoon at the Stealership getting some new hardware. Going up to tahoe with my wife to take her camping for the first time this weekend. Guess I'll be back to it on Monday. The truck sat entirely on it's own weight and tires for the first time in a few weeks today, everything Load bearing is finished. The wheel bearings looked good, so gunna wait on those until next time I take it apart.
#137
Hey, so frustrating last 2 days. First day I ripped my rock intake manifold gasket. FYI I really hate these rock gaskets, the fit up is not very good, I've had to expand bolt holes (on the gasket) around to get them to sit flat. So I went and got an altrom gasket which is a much nicer material at NAPA and then one of the bolts snapped at 20 ft-lbs, the FSM is calling for 33 ft-lbs, so that really pissed me off. I can see a sealant was used around the water lines through the intake manifold, so I need a new Altrom gasket, picking it up in the morning.
So, because it's all the bolts that are giving me problems, I went to the toyota stealership and bought studs to replace all the darn bolts for the H20 Pump, Intake manifold, and exhaust manifold because they pissed me off. Basically the only bolts left on the truck are for the timing cover. for 60 bucks for all new hardware it was totally worth not having to worry about all these bolts ever again.
So, because it's all the bolts that are giving me problems, I went to the toyota stealership and bought studs to replace all the darn bolts for the H20 Pump, Intake manifold, and exhaust manifold because they pissed me off. Basically the only bolts left on the truck are for the timing cover. for 60 bucks for all new hardware it was totally worth not having to worry about all these bolts ever again.
#139
I'm hoping it's all
Smooth sailing from here, after this last bolt broke, I got fed up and bought all new hardware for the rest of the assembly. Best spent money for some peace of mind and not to have to make another trip into town. The closest auto store is 15 miles on a 35 mph speed limit road. Not fun when things break.
Smooth sailing from here, after this last bolt broke, I got fed up and bought all new hardware for the rest of the assembly. Best spent money for some peace of mind and not to have to make another trip into town. The closest auto store is 15 miles on a 35 mph speed limit road. Not fun when things break.
#140
Right on, getting close! (sorry bout the drama... good thing you have that dealer/napa NOT TOO far away... glad you got it sussed!
)
I will be watchin... Glad to provide pics or whatever you need if I can..> just shout!
)I will be watchin... Glad to provide pics or whatever you need if I can..> just shout!





T100 rotors and calipers.
