onefast66nova

I have a 88 truck with the 22re and a 5 speed. I am thinking of selling my R/C car stuff and doing something to the yota. I have a 85 parts truck and thought about either doing a SAS or dual cases. I have 34x10.50x17 on there now with BJ spacers and springs in the rear. I was wondering the pros and cons of each..... Also with either one I know I will have to re-do the driveshaft. I was woonderin if anyone has plans for a 2x2 square tube. I was told when you dual case you need two u-joints on either end of your drive shafts....... Thanks a lot. Bill

AxleIke

Well, the pros of a SAS as it sounds like you are planning to do it, are: lots of lift, ground clearance, and assuming you buy a kit, stronger steering. Cons: you still have no lockers, you still have weak axles, and you have just opened a huge can of worms. If all goes well, you would have a sweet set up quickly, but that seldom works out.

Pros of duals: slow crawl speed, adjustable low range, especially if you put in the 4.7's while you're at it. Cons: still have no lockers, which means you'll be able to spin your tires really slowly when you get stuck.

Now, dependant on where you wheel, you may want the SAS over the duals, or vice versa. If you see a ton of mud, super low gears aren't always the best solution, but ground clearence is.

chimmike

I'd say doing SAS and getting front/rear lockers will help you the most right off the bat. After that, if you find you need duals, you'll be pretty much all set as a crawler rig.

cubuff4runner

I agree.. I went with the SAS first, so I could run larger tires, but then I couldn't power them up trails, it wasn't much fun. I finally got dual cases and love it. If you go dual cases you might as well be locked like axleike said. Either way you go you are getting yourself into a bunch of other mods to make it all work out right.

Example of what happens:

If you keep the IFS and go duals you will need lockers. Now you are more likely to beak CV joints. Lockers & duals don't play all that well with CV's unless you go with and ARB, now you need a compressor more money. Now you decide you want larger tires to give you that extra little edge now you are really asking for CV fun. Get sick of it and finally do a SAS. Your front locker that you spent the money on is now useless to you and you have to take a hit an sell it.

If you go with the SAS in the beginning you will want to go with larger tires for a few reasons - looks better, you will be regearing so you mights as well pick a size of tire and gear for that. Resize driveshafts to fit. Now that you have drained a lot of time and money you take it out and struggle up rocks because of the gearing. Finally decide you need duals so you aren't burning the clutch all the time. Install duals & resize shafts again.

tc

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...mation-121264/

What kind of wheeling do you do?

Can you drive beyond the capability of the rig?

Is the truck trail only?

Do you have lockers yet?

Did you regear when you went to 34's (I'm guessing LTB's?)

Armor?

If the answer to any of the last 5 questions is "No" - you don't need either dual cases nor an SAS.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Doing both at the same time will save you money in the long run.

To pick one, I would SAS first so you can get your drive train angles right and do it once, gears and lockers will help you too.

Decide what you want to do and plan.

We have all the parts.

onefast66nova

I really would rather climb a big hill than go over rocks or through mud. This truck is a street rig that gets driven to wheel. Open diffs all around which blows..... But I can dig 2 really mean holes when i get stuck. Bias ltb's. That said I don't mind any of it though, it is all a blast! I am thinking of welding the rear and a auzzie for the front. I have herd about 50/50 of ppl saying don't weld and some that say weld and try and not turn sharp on the road...... I have not made up my mind yet. As far as money I hope to get 500 for the car which I know is not all that much for mods, but ii could get a frone locker and weld the rear and wheel it till I can save up for bigger stuff.......

tc

Stock CV's with good angles (ie minimum lift) are about the same strength as stock Birfields.

If you're SAS'ing for strength, you better add $645 to the cost for 30 spline Longfields...

tc

500 ain't gonna make a dent in the cost of either a SAS or dual cases...

AxleIke

it will get you 4.7 gears though.

onefast66nova

ya these things get expensive!!! But little by little. I have a buddy who works at advance auto and life time warr CV are 100 for the pair. If I break them bring them back for new, so lockers I think are my next step. At least in the front, might still weld the rear?

tc

Barely ... $449 if you go with Marlin Crawler Total Spline gears...

$500 would almost get you Aussie lockers for both ends...
or a Detroit locker ...
or over half of the cost of an ARB ...
or sliders ...
or a bumper ...
or skids from Budbuilt ...
or half the cost of taller tires ...
or a lot of gas for more 'wheeling experience ...
or a sweet CO2 setup ...
or some Lightforce lights ...
or new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and all your fluids changed ...
or over half the cost of regearing ...

Anyways - I can think of many better ways to spend $500 on a relatively unmodded truck

onefast66nova

Hey thanks tc, I'll just hold off on the big stuff and just do lockers though a nice slide from budbuild would be sweet!!!!!