Hello everyone, I’m new to owning a 3vze 4Runner. I just bought one in fact and it’s turning into a much bigger project than I realized. I’ve looked around on this forum a lot and found a lot of great information and I’m hoping someone can help me with my problem.

My distributor is not turning at all. I have pulled it out and verified I can turn it by hand, and that the shaft isn’t broken and neither is the gear on that shaft. The engine will turn over, but the distributor will not turn. I’m thinking this has to be a broken camshaft. Any alternatives?

I also tested compression in 4 cylinders, the right 3 and front 1 on the left and got 0 in all after 10 cranks. I’m going to go get a different gauge because this one is a rental and might be broken or something. But what do you guys think is going on here? Is my cam shaft broken in half? Is this salvageable with new cams? I can upload pictures of anything if you need.

 

Could a broken timing belt cause all these symptoms? I was not expecting to have to do anything so in depth so this project will probably have to wait a week or two while I figure out the logistics of fitting it in my garage and getting it over there.

But could a timing belt cause all of those problems? And is there any way to tell it’s broken without removing the timing belt cover?

 

99% chance that your timing belt is broken.
the way to tell without pulling the timing cover is to watch the distributor with the cap off while you roll the engine over, if it doesn't move.... time to take it apart.

 

Thank you! Yes I have the cap off and I can crank the engine and the distributor does not spin at all. I’ll get the timing cover off ASAP and report back. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

Hey again everyone! Here are some updates as promised! Also, I am going to start a build thread as well.

So, the timing belt was indeed broken in half! But, the head gaskets might also be blown… When I drained the radiator a super dark, gross liquid came out that I thought was oil mixed with coolant. But there is no evidence of coolant in the oil. I’ll post some pics tomorrow when I can!

I’m working on doing the EGR delete, replacing the timing belt and water pump and all that. Also doing spark plugs, wires and dizzy cap. Should I go ahead and replace all gaskets including heads too? I don’t want to have to go back in later but I’m not sure it’s blown as I’ve never seen the truck run.

should I spend the extra money and time now or roll the dice and maybe have to go back in later? I don’t know the state of the HGs, valves etc, never had it all apart.

Thanks in advance!

 

Drain the oil and see if water comes out. Also look to see if the plugs look consistent or is one cleaner than others suggesting it ran with a blown head gasket. If those tests look ok, i would probably just replace the belt, then try another comp test.

 

Great advice! Oil change needs to be done anyway because oil was dark as night and a little low when I bought it. Wasn’t a well maintained vehicle. That’s ok though I’m going to resurrect her!

About the water in the oil, I did not see any evidence of that under the cap but haven’t had it drained out yet. In the old antifreeze though it has sat for weeks in a bucket now and hasn’t obviously separated into like obvious water and oil, should I conclude it’s just really old nasty antifreeze? You know what I just thought of, I’ll pour some in a mason jar, let it sit and check in a day or two. Big brain time.

Ill check the spark plugs and do the oil change tomorrow morning when I get off. Timing belt swap is at a standstill right now until I get a tool to remove the harmonic balancer/crank pulley bolt. Sucker is on there tight!

 

There is a way to break the bolt loose without any special tools. You use the starter.
It seems scary way to do it, but if you're careful, it CAN be done. It's how I've done it every time I've had to pull the HB for oil pump seal replacement, front crank seal R&R, etc.

You need a breaker bar long enough to reach from the bolt to the frame members right next to it. Make certain that the bar is on the frame member that it would rotate around to if the engine were turning.. I believe it's the passenger side, but double check that.
I pull off the center conductor from the distributor to ensure the engine can't possibly actually fire off. If you can think of other ways to do that, like pulling the distributor cap, rotor, and all the spark plug wires, that would not be a bad idea too.
You'll need an assistant that understands EXACTLY what needs to be done in the cab. They will need to turn the key to start, and release it immediately. IMMEDIATELY.

You can either use the clutch pedal, or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, whichever you prefer, to enable the starter.

Block the rear tires, ensure the transmission AND transfer case are in NEUTRAL. Both of them. Lay under the truck in such a way that should it move, it will pass over you. Put the breaker bar on the bolt, and, using the flat of your hand, not wrapped around the breaker bar, but just shoving it as hard as you can onto the frame.

Once all is ready, have the assistant tap the key to start. Just for a moment. Don't leave it there for any length of time. The starter will turn the engine a short way, but that motion is enough to break the bolt loose. If it's not broken loose by the first tap, do it again. Eventually, it WILL break loose. I think I've needed a second tap once all the times I've done it that way.

It's a shade tree mechanic trick to get the bolt loose without special tools, and it IS a little bit dangerous, not excessively so, as long as the person doesn't freeze on the key.

Anywho, just want to point out that there IS an alternate method to do the job.

Good luck. Whether you do this trick or not, I wish you all the best.
Pat☺

 

This is a great idea and I may very well give it a go tomorrow! Thanks for the input! Only problem is I have to invest in a larger breaker bar and I have no helper until at least 6pm when the fiancé gets home. Maybe I can brace the breaker bar in place with a jack stand and do it myself? I’ll give that a shot and report back. Thanks again.

 

You can always use a "torque amplifier" IE a piece of steel piping, that will extend your breaker bar to reach the frame. Remember that the bar will try to rotate with the bolt, obviously. It must be tight up against the strong frame member that's right there. It will want to rotate up onto the frame member. IOW: The jackstand, while not a bad idea, won't work. The breaker bar will try to go upward, on the passenger side, so it needs to be held tight against a solid frame member to stop it.
Well, I guess it might work with the breaker bar facing the opposite way, like to the driver's side, and resting on the jackstand. I just never thought of it Thinking isn't my strong suit any more, though. Just remember that there must be solid contact between the breaker bar and frame member, jackstand, whatever. Any small space can allow the breaker bar to develop a huge amount of torque as it moves. Very dangerous.

No matter what, be EXTREMELY cautious. That breaker bar can move very, very suddenly, and with a great deal of force, given the gearing between the starter and engine.

Make certain to double, and triple check the safety features. Are the transmission AND transfer case both in neutral? Are the wheels blocked? Are you certain YOU removed the center conductor from the distributor? I never take anyone's word for any of this stuff. I ensure I've done it myself, in person. I take it off entirely, put it in my pocket, and actually, physically LOOK at it in my hand before the key gets anywhere near the truck. Don't let anyone near the truck. Some lookie-loo might say "Hey, this cable is off..." and plug it back in for you. Make sure only YOU, or a well briefed assistant, if you have one, get into the cab.

You understand my paranoia. That breaker bar can break arms and legs very comfortably. And it will. Murphy's Law is in full effect, never forget that.

Just to cover my butt, this procedure is what *I* use. I don't necessarily recommend it to anyone else. I hope that the lawyers can use that disclaimer well...

I wish you all the best, and look forward to hearing how things go for you.
Pat☺​​​​​​

 

Don't do that. It won't improve performance or gas mileage. By increasing the combustion temps it may reduce the engine life. Most importantly, the EGR significantly reduces NOx emissions, which turn into Nitric acid on contact with moisture in the air. The air that you probably want to breathe.

Yeah, you can do that. But it's mostly a waste of time. The reason you can't get the bolt out now is that the crank turns when you apply torque. You might be able to get it out with the starter trick (if the wrench doesn't come loose and thrash the engine), but you still need to put the bolt back in. The spec torque is 181 ft-lbs. You're going to need the crank-holding tool anyway, so just make one now and avoid the risk. I, of course, am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ (it set me back $0.00 to make it). There are lots of other clever designs, some referenced in that thread.

 

Thanks for the feedback! I like your pulley holder design and might make something like that, looks perfect.

As far as the egr goes it’s out and staying out. I appreciate the feedback there too but this is only a toy, not a daily and it’s purpose is off-roading in Florida so I’m none too worried about emissions. That damn egr just clogs up the engine bay and makes it almost impossible to get to the spark plugs.

 

Actually, I've found that putting the bolt back in is the easier part. You just need the truck up high enough that you can get under there with a decent sized breaker bar and/or torque wrench.
All you need to do is put the truck in gear. 4H, 4th or 5th gear, and block the tires up real good, and once everything gets into position, ie: the gearing and so forth all tightens up, the engine won't turn a degree. You can pull as hard as you want to get to the correct torque. Depending on your drive train's wear-n-tear, it might take some turning to get everything locked in solid. I know mine have more than just a tiny bit of play after all the years I've owned them.

It's always worked for me, anywho. I've had my pickup for 35 some years, and my 87 4Runner 25 some, since 97 or so, and I haven't used one of those pulley holder tools yet. Once again, though, all this IS shadetree mechanic methods of getting a task accomplished. To do it the truely correct, mechanicy way, like they would at a real, professionally staffed shop, yes, definitely use the pulley holder tool. No question.
Believe it or not, I AM usually a strong proponent of "the right tool for the job". All this is a special case, for me, though.

Again, this is how *I* do these things to MY trucks. I don't necessarily recommend anyone else do what I describe. I hope that covers my empennage pretty well...

I wish you the best of luck no matter how you do all this.
​​​​​​​Pat☺

 

The page I cited to lists a number of alternative ways to hold the crank, including putting it into 5th gear (don't forget to chock the wheels; you don't want the truck rolling!) IF you have a manual transmission (I don't). Of course, that also works to remove the crank bolt, without the drama of a powered swinging wrench. The coolest sounding method is to put a bunch of nylon cord into the cylinder space through the spark plug hole, which will gently hold the piston and keep the crank from turning. I've never tried it, though.

Pick out the method you feel comfortable with. Just don't forget that the bolt has to come out, and go back in.

 

I like the nylon rope trick for changing valve seals. I’ve used the starter method to break crank bolts loose on Hondas successfully. Don’y recall the torque spec, though.

 

Well I have made it as far as the #2 idler pulley. I am now stuck and waiting on a bolt extractor socket set coming from Amazon. Looks like I definitely have to take the plenum off to get to this bolt now. I was trying to work around it and have rounded off this bolt completely. Any help or tips are appreciated.

Also does anyone know what size bolt this is? It is the back left bolt for the #2 idler (top idler) on the 1995 3vze. When I get it out I’ll be able to check length and thread pitch and all that but for now I only know it is a 12mm head.

Also I am at work right now but I can upload a picture later if that will help.

Thanks again everyone.

 

Actually, as long as the head of a bolt is rounded off already, you can, if there's room, clamp a vice-grip plier onto it, as tightly as you can, and use that to try and turn it. You can also, if there's room, slip a torque amplifier (metal tube of some kind) onto the circular handle of the vice-grip. Gives you a lot of leverage. The longer the torque amplifier, the more leverage you get. Clamping vice-grip pliers on will trash the head of the bolt, digging into it, but if it's already trashed by being rounded off, who cares?
You also, using this method, use a ball-peen hammer to tap the bolt firmly while trying to turn it. That will often do the trick.

Putting a penetrating oil, like PB Blaster, or whichever one you prefer, onto the bolt well before, and during, the attempted removal operation, can be hugely beneficial. Before, like a couple days before, with continued applications throughout the delay period. Like some in the morning, some in the evening. for a couple of days, if possible. That sort of thing. Gives the oil a chance to soak in and really work on breaking the bonds holding the bolt. Adding more oil during the attempted removal helps work it down in better.

Heat is another beneficial process to help removing a stuck bolt. Get it good 'n hot, and try to turn it while it remains hot. The different metals involved will expand at different rates, possibly providing just enough loosening to allow you turn the bolt. Again, tapping firmly while trying to turn the bolt can help, especially when hot.
Beware of using heat after adding penetrating oil, though. The oil IS flammable. You don't want an engine compartment fire on your hands! Keep a extinguisher on hand at all times. Right beside you is preferable. Within arm's reach, at least. You need an extinguisher that can handle oil, grease, and gasoline fires. Like a 1A 10BC rated extinguisher.

The thing to watch out for is that the harder you have to try and turn a stuck bolt, the greater chance there is of the head shearing off the shaft. If that happens, the item the bolt is holding on will come off, but you now have to work on getting the bolt's shaft out. If you can weld, you can weld a new head onto the shaft to work on getting the bolt out. Or, once again, clamping vice-grips onto the shaft, as TIGHTLY as you can, can give you the leverage you need to get it out. Again, who cares if you trash the threads??

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

Great ideas here! I’ve gotta take off the plenum no matter what so I might try and get that bolt off with some vice grips before the extractors get here. For some reason they are delayed until the 13th even though they were Amazon prime eligible.

Any tips on where to look around for a replacement bolt? Never had to do that before, been very lucky until now!

 

Many hardware stores have a wide selection of bolts. You can take whatever is left after you get the bolt out to the store, and they can identify just what grade, length, and thread pitch. Make sure you specify that it's a Japanese bolt, for a Japanese truck's Japanese engine. It matters for the thread pattern, I believe. I know there's a specification designation, but I can't remember it is.

Many generic Auto Parts stores also carry a variety of nuts, bolts, etc, and may well be more familiar with the whole Japanese thread pitch thing.

Does that help?
Pat☺

 

If it has a 12mm head, it's an 8mmx1.25 JIS flange bolt. I don't know the length.

What, am I psychic? No, all the (non-part number) fasteners on your truck are JIS. The difference between JIS and "regular" metric bolts (as if regular metric is even a thing in the US) is the heads are a little smaller on the >= 8mm sizes. You could use a "regular" 8mmx1.25 bolt with a washer, but it will have a 13mm head. You'll be reminded of your folly every time you have to search for a 13mm socket for that one bolt on your truck.

An auto parts store would be a long shot, but once you know exactly what you're looking for (you can measure the length) you'll have a chance. My local Ace Hardware has a set of little drawers for the Metric fasteners, and they now have JIS as well. Not cheap, but you only need one.

I'm looking forward to the day when the Imperial fasteners are in the little drawers and the Metric fasteners are in the big bins, but probably not in my lifetime.