Can somebody tell me where to find a distributor that will work on the 22RE that will elimanate the coil/ignitor?????????? THANK YOU

 

www.man-a-fre.com

 

There's an HEI-like dizzy that's available for the 20r/22r/22re.

Why do you want to eliminate it?

It's not a small task. The timing is controlled at the ignitor by the ECU. A Mechanical advance system isn't as good. Also, you'll lose output on your ignitor - meaning no tach and no AC pull up (ac wont work) - there's a way around this, but it's a lot of trouble.

For the cost of the HEI-type dizzy (I'd have to look up the vendor) - you can do megasquirt and then use just about any timing system you want... It's not a "cake" conversion, however..

 

I've never heard that about the D.U.I. distributor, everyone seems to love them. I'll have to call and ask. Where did you get that info about their distributor? I'm thinking of doing this to mine and I've never seen that.

 

I was told by a few people that the ignitors were a problem on these 4-runners and I don't want to get a used one and it go out soon and a new one is 300-400 DOLLARS.Not sure what to do.

 

Did you look at that site? I"m still waiting to hear back about where he got the info on the a/c and timing issues with D.U.I. distributors because that's the first I've heard of it. All the feedback I've seen has been positive but hey you never know. I've never heard that the factory ignitor was a problem but they are expensive. I just want a hotter spark and be able to open my plug gap up to .055 for performance reasons.

 

I seriously doubt if they know about the implications of AC and tach.
I've talked to them. They told me it would work in the 20r, but that's it.
I had to explain that it would also bolt into the 22r. I inquired because if they do true HEI with ECU timing control, that's something that megasquirt works with easily. Their default dizzy is not timing controlled externally.

Trust me on the tach and AC issues.. There's a circuit in the 22re that decides at what RPM it is OK to turn on the compressor, so you're not dragging it when trying to start. I'll bet most people are unaware of how this works - it's driven by ignitor output. Tach is driven by ignitor output.

It can be "fudged" but it requires a tach adapter wired at the right place.
I also think that it's likely the OEM advance is more "optimal" than something these guys have engineered with limited testing. Sure.. Increase gap in the plugs, but you may have to deal with non-optimal timing.
You lose knock control, BTW.

Want to run big gap, why not replace the stock coil after the igniter?
Slightly increase your default timing, that will shift the timing curve.

Nothing wrong with this setup, I just hate to see people throw money at something that's not going to net much of a gain and is going to cause problems on the 22re.


Ping me if you need a source for toyota parts (used) - no reason to spend $400 on an igniter.

 

You are right, there are sites out there claiming that the D.U.I. distributor will work with a 22RE, IT WON'T. It works with the 20R/22R only. My bad I'm sorry for pointing anyone in that direction but it will not work with a 22RE.

 

:-)
It's self contained. It'll drive spark just fine. Course, the ECU will have trouble determining RPM and you won't have fuel...

You could use the early Celica ECS system - but I'm talking the whole EFI system...

If you really want to lose the stock ignitor, I'm thinking about doing a Ford EDIS system for my turbo motor (crank trigger coil pack). You're probably talking about $600 after it's all said and done with - including ECU replacement though.. And it ain't gonna pass in CA.


There are lots of ways to do ignition. The stock EFI system needs a 12v square wave input on NE to determine when to fire injectors.. You could use a mechanical dizzy, MSD-6al... Come to think of it, you could probably use the DUI distributor (if it has a tach output) - but some wiring is going to be required...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it... (sometimes I need to take my own advice)

 

You should do a tech write up on ignitions, there is no doubt you know what you're talking about. I'm very interested in the alternatives but I don't want to spend money on some namebrand BS. There has to be something better than the old coil ignition out there. Making it work is another story

 

My suggestions:
1) If you want more spark and a larger gap, buy a "hotter" coil.
2) If you want better spark, integrate with a MSD-6A or 6-AL.
2) If you want more advance, move your baseline timing up just a little. 2-3 degrees.
3) If you want timing control for boost, install an MSD-6AL BTM.

If you really want to get rid of that ignitor and stock ignition system, my suggestion is to scrap the ECU also. For a programmable ECU and associating plug and play wiring, you're looking at $425. You can totally control spark and advance and fuel.... You know, get yourself into a lot of tuning trouble quickly. I'm still finishing this project up (testing it out) - and I don't think I'm willing to do it as a "vendor".

A fancy ignition system will add cost to that, unless you're willing to do it yourself. We're talking probably another $200 and some mild fabrication for crank trigger.

Here's an overview of how VAST works, reprinted with permission: