Disc brake is dragging.
#1
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Disc brake is dragging.
I just replaced my front pads and had to use a bit of force to push a few of the brake pistons into their cylinders. I tapped this particular pad in with a mallet. Now the front passenger's side is dragging. I can turn it, though its rather stiff.
How to I fix this on the cheap (ie: new calipers are not an option)?. Can I just force the piston farther back into the cylinder to free up some range of motion?
How to I fix this on the cheap (ie: new calipers are not an option)?. Can I just force the piston farther back into the cylinder to free up some range of motion?
#5
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since your front brakes are non-abs, just remove the cap from the master cylinder, and use a C-clamp to apply pressure to fully press the piston back into the caliper.
the caliper by design is very simple, so if the piston will not release fully then you'll need to replace the caliper.
the caliper by design is very simple, so if the piston will not release fully then you'll need to replace the caliper.
#7
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the brake system is NOT something I would cheap out on. you can get a rebuild kit for cheap and just replace the seals in the caliper yourself.
the square cut seal around the caliper piston is what causes the piston to return after brake application.
the caliper piston will only have 2 rubber seals. you blow the piston out with compressed air through the fluid port, replace seals, re-assemble. simple.
brake drag = excess heat = brake fade
brake drag = excess friction = loss mpg
the square cut seal around the caliper piston is what causes the piston to return after brake application.
the caliper piston will only have 2 rubber seals. you blow the piston out with compressed air through the fluid port, replace seals, re-assemble. simple.
brake drag = excess heat = brake fade
brake drag = excess friction = loss mpg
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#8
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Let's see. One tank of gas, about $65. One remanufactured caliper from Autozone, about $53.
Times are hard, but stopping is still "a good thing."
By the way, I've replaced the seals on a caliper (not a toyota, though). A very, very fiddly job. I'm pretty cheap, but I'd still go with a reman.
Times are hard, but stopping is still "a good thing."
By the way, I've replaced the seals on a caliper (not a toyota, though). A very, very fiddly job. I'm pretty cheap, but I'd still go with a reman.
#9
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Let's see. One tank of gas, about $65. One remanufactured caliper from Autozone, about $53.
Times are hard, but stopping is still "a good thing."
By the way, I've replaced the seals on a caliper (not a toyota, though). A very, very fiddly job. I'm pretty cheap, but I'd still go with a reman.
Times are hard, but stopping is still "a good thing."
By the way, I've replaced the seals on a caliper (not a toyota, though). A very, very fiddly job. I'm pretty cheap, but I'd still go with a reman.
#10
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I jacked the truck up and took the pads out and forced the pots (pistons) in and out a bunch of times. They seem to have loosened up and are no longer dragging. Seems to me like a little rust formed behind the pistons when the old pads wore low. That obstructed the compression of the pistons are caused the dragging. Hopefully I have knocked the rust off and they'll last until this school term is completed and I have more funds at my disposal.
Last edited by Matt16; 10-12-2008 at 01:39 AM.
#11
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well, you've managed to pump whatever gunk was in there up the brake lines, and likely into the master cylinder.
the better option would've been to pull the calipers and remove the pistons from the bores, use 0000 steel wool to loosen any rust and gunk, clean up everything real good then reassemble them. and just before installing the calipers, flush the lines out real good.
the better option would've been to pull the calipers and remove the pistons from the bores, use 0000 steel wool to loosen any rust and gunk, clean up everything real good then reassemble them. and just before installing the calipers, flush the lines out real good.
#12
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well, you've managed to pump whatever gunk was in there up the brake lines, and likely into the master cylinder.
the better option would've been to pull the calipers and remove the pistons from the bores, use 0000 steel wool to loosen any rust and gunk, clean up everything real good then reassemble them. and just before installing the calipers, flush the lines out real good.
the better option would've been to pull the calipers and remove the pistons from the bores, use 0000 steel wool to loosen any rust and gunk, clean up everything real good then reassemble them. and just before installing the calipers, flush the lines out real good.
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