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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Diagnostic Trouble. Odd codes?

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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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Harold Of The Rocks's Avatar
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Diagnostic Trouble. Odd codes?

Hey guys, 4runner crapped out yesterday on a out of town drive. The tow was a cool 164 bones. Anyway, trouble shooting I'm starting to believe it is the fuel pump. It almost starts but never does. When driving it before it died it felt like it had no pep and that slowly got worse as I drove along. Lots of crazy info about the ECU and stuff. However, one article http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html shows how to do self diagnoses. But, when I connect E1 and TE1 i just get a constant flashing checking engine light. I don't get anything that could point to what the problem is. I've tried jumpering the FP and B+ to test whether I could hear the fuel pump, but couldn't. The problem is that I want to be sure that it is the fuel pump before ponying up 470 bucks to Toyota to replace. Any thoughts on why check engine codes don't point to a fuel pump or distribution problem?
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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It would help to know year/model/engine/tranny/etc. But from what you said, its a pre 95 pickup or 4runner? Well a constant blinking light points to no problems...

Did you check your fuses, this sounds like what mine did when the VAF meter shorted out internally! So check the EFI fuse in the engine fuse box!
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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yes indeed, 1989 4runner a/t 22re. I'll give the fuses a quick look, though I did check the fuses by the drivers kick side.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Try the fuel pump test jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Thanks 4Crawler. Yup, your website rocks. Wish I was as inclined as your are with the tools and such! Anyway, I gave the jumper from the Fp to B+ a shot and turned the ignition to ACC and listened for the fuel pump. Quiet like the night (depending on where you live :') I read about your suggestions for digging at the fuel pump through the back under the seats which, when the time comes, I'll likely do. A few posts mentioned the fuel filter but also that it is a PITA to replace. Funny, you'd think that the pump is harder to replace. Anyway, what are you thoughts on the fuel pump versus the filter. It is possible that a clogged fuel filter could totally prevent all fuel from reaching the engine (combustion camber?). When turning the engine over and pushing the pedal I get no smell of gasoline in the engine which I had thought I might.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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It's definitely possible for a clogged fuel filter to block all fuel and overheat the pump, so changing the filter with the pump would probably be a good idea.

But even with both being new you wouldn't smell gasoline in the engine compartment unless you have a leak because unlike a carburated engine, fuel injected motors don't let fuel into the combustion chamber unless the engine is actually turning over.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Well if the pump is not running with the test jumper in place and the ignition on there are two possibilities. Pump is not getting power or pump is bad. Measure for 12 volts at the pump connector and see which it is.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by marko3xl3

But even with both being new you wouldn't smell gasoline in the engine compartment unless you have a leak because unlike a carburated engine, fuel injected motors don't let fuel into the combustion chamber unless the engine is actually turning over.
Yup, an old chev blazer was my reference point lol. Thanks for the clarification marko.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Harold Of The Rocks
Yup, an old chev blazer was my reference point lol. Thanks for the clarification marko.
no problem
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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4crawler, got the back hatch opened up for the top of the gas tank. There is a blue wire and a white wire (w/ black stripe). There isn't anyway to pull up the sending unit fuel pump etc etc., with these wires still attached. I'm no electrician so I thought there might be something I'm missing to disconnect them, and be able to reconnect them properly. The blue one is a connected to this weird transparent yellow piece that isn't moving. I suppose I could cut then solder but that doesn't seem right.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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As I recall, there should be a connector some place between the pump and where the wires come from. It has been about 5 years since I last pulled mine so may be mistaken.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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Got her out. Off to get the fuel pump. Seems to be in good shape but because it's submerged in gas all the parts look new. Nothing like smelling gasoline on a hot day. Ugh.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Installed the new fuel pump, and though the 4runner doesn't start, it does almost get a few 'chugs' out. Weird thing is that I retested the diagnostic jumpering, going from Fp to B+. Before I installed the new pump, I got nothing, no heating of the paper click. Now, the paper clip gets crazy hot and as I touch Fp to B+ there is a mini arching. The only thing different is the new fuel pump so it must have had something to do with (i.e., bad fuel filter burning out the pump). Strange strange. Tomorrow out goes the fuel filter which I've read is a PITA.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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Good luck man! Hope it's the filter. Let us know.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by marko3xl3
Good luck man! Hope it's the filter. Let us know.
No, no luck with the filter Marko. That was a pain to replace. Ugh. I've posted a new thread looking into other options like testing the pump to see if it spewing out gas. Also, because my Fp B+ jumper is getting hot, the new pump is definitely pulling voltage, so maybe it's not grounded properly. Anyway, I'm still on the hunt but learning a ton which is part of the process.
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Old Apr 1, 2019 | 06:20 AM
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Gear Rotor Fuel Pump Lubrication

Be careful to run your fuel pump immersed in the fuel. The gear rotor is like a roots blower with close tolerances and needs the gasoline to lubricate things. Otherwise you may take some life out of the pump and will certainly reduce the peek pressure that it could produce if you spin it up dry.
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