ashersullivan88yota

Yesterday night I turned on my lights and notice my dash lights weren't on so I checked the dimmer and it was all the way up I changed the circle fuse with another one I had and it didn't fix it also my running lights on the back don't work but my brake lights do anybody got any suggestions

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

Sounds kind of similar to the issue I had when I replaced the alternator wire in this thread. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/lights-out-266855/

ashersullivan88yota

I haven't messed with anything on the alternator but I'll check have you ever heard of the connector melting going from the column to the harness like a 10 wire connector I had a problem a while back where my headlights wouldn't come on so I checked that connector and it melted so I just put a wire in I'm wandering if it couldn't have done that but on the interior light and running light wires

BigAxeJack

Was the fuse you replaced blown? Are you absolutely sure you replaced it with a good fuse? Fuses can look ok but be open, check it with an ohm meter to be sure. After that, check for +12 volts at the dome light. If you have voltage but still no light, then check your grounds. If no voltage, recheck the fuses and fusible links. Good luck!

ashersullivan88yota

Could i jump this fuse to check if this is the problem if so how it has 3 prongs on it

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

What you seemed to have changed might be the tail light relay who knows .

Fuses have just a path for current only 2 blades or the round cylinder glass type fuse.

As the dash lights and tail lights are one circuit something is causing the circuit to draw to much current which causes the fuse to open.

Find the correct fuse see if it is open??

Short someplace ?? Damaged wiring could be the cause

Failed trailer converter is another good one.

Brake lights are separate circuit .

ashersullivan88yota

I've checked everything could it be the actual switch?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Have you found a open fuse??

Just what are you working on??

If your plug from the combination switch is melted good chance that is your problem

Did you check if the relay you removed was working like it should??

A multimeter is your best bet and do some trouble shooting

ashersullivan88yota

I've checked all fuses and relays all good and the steering column connector is not melted you know where a good diagram for the connector under column is? Gonna try to check the switch by jumping the wires for the parking lights

RAD4Runner

Three prongs? Sounds like you replaced a relay, not a fuse

Taillights work yet your front marker lights work? Not likely.

Schematic and Test points for tail lights and dash lights not working:

ashersullivan88yota

Yeah I replaced a relay and fuses and yes my brake lights do work and my headlights work but nothing else no parking lights or rear running lights I'm guessing switch but have no steering wheel puller to swap the one in my parts truck

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

You dont need a puller.
Remove the horn button with the screws on the back side of the wheel. (2 or 3)
Then use a ratchet to break the big nut loose in the middle but just loosen it a few threads, don't fully remove it.
Next ,with the side of you hand, start smacking the rim of the wheel with a good amount of force in the 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions. Do a few rounds of that.
Then grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and push in on one side and pull out on the other. Repeat at 12 and 3 o'clock and after a few rounds it should pop loose. Leaving the nut on in the center will stop the wheel from popping off and rearranging your nose.
Also remember to mark the splines before you remove it so you put the wheel back where it needs to go.

ashersullivan88yota

Still didn't fix my problem I hooked the switch up and still nothing only head lights any other ideas?

Maui_David559

Hey everyone , I need some help. A few days ago .. everything went to ˟˟˟˟˟

My issue :
No Dashlights , No Tail Lights , no DTRL lights . 15a Tail fuse keeps popping (under driver-side kick panel) .

What I’ve tried / tested and or replaced :

• My headlights & brake lights & reverse lights do come on , as I understand they are on a separate circuit(s)
• I replaced the Tail-light relay (driver side kick panel) .. no changes
• i tried putting a 30a fuse replacing the 15a tail fuse to just test if possibly I’m getting too much “current?”, however with my multi-meter it reads a big fat 0. I did not plan on leaving the 30am fuse in there even if it worked ( don’t shoot me ) I wanna fix the issue lol.
• tested with multimeter every other fuse in said kick-panel, and all have correct voltage.
• I checked every bulb behind the dash-> tachometer/speedometer , for breaks in the bulb every single bulb looked correct and without damage or breaks
• I’ve checked if I had a bad 80a fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay. fuse is good .
• Went to local junkyard and pulled off steering wheel on a very similar toyota v6 , and tried it’s steering wheel light switch . Same results .. only headlights come on.
• Lastly smoked about 5 packs of cigs this week because this is depressing I’ve taken apart and put back together my dash like 5 times this week

Please if you have any suggestions, questions or ideas on what I can do , I’d really appreciate it .
“Any advice is good advice if you have no advice on said advice”

Please understand I am not a certified mechanic, just a garage junkie , so if you can , please dumb down the high tech terminology so a newbie could follow=)
as i probably won’t understand fully you said lol. I hate anything that has to do with fixing the electrical side of automotives however I will do my best.

scope103

Why?

0 what? Ohms? Amps? Volts? Decibels? If you were trying to measure voltage, between what two points were you measuring?

If you're blowing fuses, there's a 99.5% chance that you have a short to ground somewhere in your lighting circuit. Have you looked for that? I would start in your trailer harness; they are notorious for filling up w/crap and shorting out. Trace the installation all the way from the trailer connector back to where it's attached to your factory wiring. If it was put in by the genius at the dealership that put in the one on my truck, that's where your problem is.

Maui_David559

1. I honestly replaced the Tail-light relay because during the week I’ve been working on this , I’ve read people replacing this and it fixing their issue & sharing their experience.
2. when checking with the multimeter the 30a fuse . It was reading 0 voltage . Coulda been a number like .04 v & I’m just rounding it down to 0 cuz that’s practically no voltage . Like I said im not savy when it comes to this stuff so forgive me with the terrible incorrect terminology responses to your questions.
3. i have not tried to check the grounds , I’m not sure how or where to look? Which are the grounds is there a clear diagram I could see ? When you say “lighting circuit” does that refer to the wires going to the junction box
4. I haven’t checked the trailer wires whatsoever , I have never messed with them but I will give that a shot tomorrow morning

RAD4Runner

LOL! So true.

David,

If you want us to help you from thousands of miles away, you have to tell us what model-year-engine-transmission-trim you are working on. You will save everybody time from not on if you put that info in your signature, just like Scope and I did.
When you used the 30Amp fuse, did you try turning on tails again? Did it blow the fuse?
After you find the trailer adapter, try thi:
Disconnect trailer adapter
Disconnect both taillight and both front marker fixtures.
Turn tails on and see if dash works
Report back

You need to specify what setting your multimeter is in, where you are putting the positive test probe (red), where you are placing the black negative probe.
My Post Above tells you were to test for 12Volts. Black probe is always on bare, shiny, clean metal of the body OR the negative of battery, EXCEPT where arrows point otherwise.

Maui_David559

Sorry about that , you’d think that would be the first thing to mention in my original post . *facepalm* must of slipped my mind

• I have a 1993 Toyota Pickup V6 4x4 3.0 VZE, DLX , manual transmission
• Whilst 30a fuse was plugged in , the lights were tried … nothing happened - no tail lights - no dash lights , no DTRL , & the 30a fuse was not blown.

as soon as the sun comes out here in Madera CA I’ll try and take a look at what you have specified . I really appreciate the help you guys thank you .

Maui_David559

when I do this , should I try the 15a fuse again or the 30a ?

RAD4Runner

Hmmm.... So earlier, taillight fuse blew but the 30amp fuse does not?
May have to switch focus on checking for 12V, not for short to ground which causes fuse to blow.
If urs is 1993 V6, thn schematic is different from what I posted above. Need to look for one.
Still would not hurt to inspect all your tail/marker housings.