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Also, the ac/power steering idle up screw, mine was leaking past that screw, so I just removed it and plugged it. Looks cleaner that way regardless. I found my plug on a truck with no ac/power steering from factory. The threads might be weird British pipe threads or Japanese imperial pipe threads or some such nonsense. Take the valve to the hardware store and check the brass fittings section.
I like that idea, we have a plumbing supply store up the street and the guy at the counter works magic with weird stuff. Thanks for the fresh ideas, I have til Thursday to figure this out or I have to bail on a trip I paid for already... I'm going to figure this out
Here’s voltage and resistance checks at the ecu from the 1986 fsm.
I use this for my 87. Should work for 85-87.
Right off the bat, my IDL to E2 is in the milivolts, if I slowly maniplute the throttle it jumps wildly and sometimes into OL
. Checks the TPS and it's working and adjusted properly...
Other than that it everything checked out.
I was able to get it to run properly (as far as I can tell) by putting my thumb over the hose on the front of the valve cover and the port on the valve cover. I'm guessing I am simply cheating the air/fuel mixture into richening. Further strengthening my lean assumption.
I like that idea, we have a plumbing supply store up the street and the guy at the counter works magic with weird stuff. ...
Good luck with that.
The tapered fittings on Toyotas are BSPT (British Standard Pipe, Tapered). That one is probably 1/8" BSPT. It has 28 tpi. https://www.valvesonline.com.au/references/threads/ A 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Tapered), that your friend at the plumbing supply house almost certainly has, are made with 27 tpi . By eye, they'll look pretty close (the NPT is a little bigger, but it's tapered, so you can start it.) If you tighten it really hard, will it fit? Sorta. Will it leak? Probably.
Right off the bat, my IDL to E2 is in the milivolts, if I slowly maniplute the throttle it jumps wildly and sometimes into OL
. Checks the TPS and it's working and adjusted properly...
I’d double check that the pins are making positive contact between the TPS and it’s harness connector.
Originally Posted by tgell001
I was able to get it to run properly (as far as I can tell) by putting my thumb over the hose on the front of the valve cover and the port on the valve cover. I'm guessing I am simply cheating the air/fuel mixture into richening. Further strengthening my lean assumption.
I’m not following what you’re referencing here. You unplugged the pcv hose leaving the port on the intake open, and covered the pcv hose with your thumb?
I’m not following what you’re referencing here. You unplugged the pcv hose leaving the port on the intake open, and covered the pcv hose with your thumb?
not the PCV, the hose of same diameter on the front of the valve cover.
That front port is a pcv port as well, just no check valve.
It enters the intake manifold and makes an instant 90* turn back through the throttle body to a hole in front of the throttle plate. If the pcv system is working correctly, opening the throttle creates (higher) vacuum on the front port, while simultaneously closing the pcv valve on the rear port.
Rear port=Closed throttle (idle) positive crank case ventilation
front port=Open throttle (anything other than idle) positive crank case ventilation.
Unfortunately it eludes me as to why plugging that helps your idle. It suggests that your pcv system is not closed or working properly.
Is that front pcv port hose compromised?
Do you have an oil dipstick?
Is the rubber on it dry rotted and cracked?
Connect that front pcv port back to stock configuration.
Start the engine, pull the dipstick and plug the dipstick port with your thumb.
Does that fix anything?
Long shot, but all I’ve got.
Check that your idle air control valve (IACV) is working properly, inspect the hoses for dry rot, cracks, holes and the like. A google search should find you the procedures. If need be search my posts for a Nissan part alternative, or delete it and suffer bad cold starts (It’s summer...).
I would also get the engine up to temp, pull the spark plugs, inspect them again, then do a compression check.
Ok, so my dipstick is totally sloppy and does not great a seal what so ever. But it's always been that way. Will probably help still...
I never inspected so hard before but I feel like I can hear an air whooshing noise around the intake plenum. I started feeling all the threaded connections and nothing felt loose or changed the noise by touching the joint.
I didn't know I could just cap the idle air controller and it would run at all, those hoses (though no visible cracks) are the only original ones left.
I got it running pretty nice last night by capping the front PCV vent (non-valve) at both ends and adjusting my AFM 3 clicks. 100% aware this is a band-aid, but I paid money to be at an event this weekend and sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
I marked my starting location on the AFM so I can reset.
Thanks, I rarely drive this thing during the winter and I can always get it started well ahead of our first outing of the day. But that makes sense, if I start it and don't rev it once before walking away it will quickly stall
So when I first started it up today it ran great but after like 2 mins it started acting like crap again. I'm assuming that's because the cold start injector closed.
nope. the csi stops as soon as the key is released from "start" to "on"; it does not continue spraying fuel for two minutes.
Funny you should ask. Motor blew up on a test drive before I ever left. Was zooming around the neighborhood and the timing chain was making so much noise I could clearly hear it so I backed off and was engine breaking and it cut off. Started it back up and limped it home. Pulled into the driveway and when the RPMs dropped down to idle there was clear engine clanging and banging.
There's a ton of timing chain slap from the front, and clean fast(ish) slapping from the back of the top and a slow clunk from the bottom end. Put the timing light on it and the mark was off the scale to the left. I turned the distributor til the mark came into range and it cut off and wouldn't start like that.
I think I jumped timing and blew it up. Not sure how that was related to my previous problem, not sure if it is? But I've already got the motor all disconnected ready pull it out and do a post mortem and prep for a rebuild.
Sucks.. but this will give me a chance to get it right and own my problems and not worry about what BS the previous owner did
07-28-2018, 06:32 AM
