Well, I tried searching and the only threads I found that matched my symptoms didn't have any solutions...

Yesterday we drove the 4Runner for about 100 miles with zero issues. Today I rode to work with a buddy and tried to start the 4Runner to go run errands when I got back. I was greeted by a TERRIBLE idle. I linked a video later in this post.


So I searched and researched and figured that some moisture might have gotten inside the distributor cap since it was super rainy and humid this morning/today. I had been meaning to change the plugs and wires anyway, so I bought a new cap and rotor too. I noticed that my o-ring on the dizzy was busted, and also that there's a hole in the bottom of the distributor anyway. Is that supposed to be there?

Here's some pictures of that hole:





I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and tried to fire it back up. No change.

Here's a video of what it sounds like, after the new parts:



I felt the exhaust manifold after trying to run it for a few seconds. There was a significant temperature difference between the 1-2 manifold branch (hotter) and the 3-4 branch (cooler). 3rd cylinder's side of the manifold branch is warmer than 4th cyl's side. I feel like 4th may not be firing. I'm going to pick up a timing light tomorrow and try to see if there's any codes after work.

Anything else I should be checking?

 

I didn't get a timing light but visually checked and #4 is sparking. I also checked all vacuum lines and the TPS. I didn't get a chance to pull codes yet. My Hayne's manual is in shipping with the rest of my stuff and I won't see it until May, so I'm going to use this to look at codes: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

I'm going to try and check the injector pulses tomorrow with the $3 'noid light from a thread on here. #4 plug did have fuel on it when I pulled it after attempting to run it.

That knocking from the top end really worries me though. Sounds like a Diesel. If I can't find any other issues tomorrow I'll pull the valvecover and start inspecting for mechanical damage...

Does anyone have any ideas? At all?

 

It sounds like mine did when one of my plug wires fell and roasted on the exhaust manifold. I would check each plug for spark ,if you haven't already.

 

Yeah, I already replaced the wires, cap and rotor. Thanks for the suggestion, though!

Anyone else?

 

The 85s injector connections at the injector is a poor design. With it running, I take a wooden dowel and gently push on the injector connection and see if that makes it run better. What am looking for is to see if the connector worked it way loose.

Also while it is running, I pull one plug wire at a time and see if there is a change in the idling. If it does not change, you found which cylinder is not functioning. I first check by putting a screw driver into the spark plug wire and hold it from a ground looking for spark. If I got spark, I then go to the fuel side.

On the fuel side, it is most likely a clogged injector or not firing the injector. That is where the $3 noid lite comes in handy. ( I created that thread, glad it may help you). Insert an LED into the injector connector and see if it lights when cranking. The LED is polarity sensitive so you may need to switch the leads around in the injector connector.

If the LED does not light, there is a poorly designed crimp in the wiring harness that is most likely corroded. #1 and #3 share the same wire. #2 and #4 share another wire. The crimps in the two different wires will pass a resistance check but apparently not let enough voltage or current to pass and fire the injector.

Remove the crimps and solder, heat shrink, and re wrap with tape and use the noid light again and see if you have the LED flashing.

I listened to your video but I couldn't really make anything out from it but it is more information that does make it useful. I have received brand new plug wires in the past that would not pass a resistance check, so for good measure, I always run a resistance check on new wire.

I now get my Denso wires off of ebay for the same price I get plug wires from the parts store and they are a better quality wire and fit then the parts store. Just putting that up for future reference. http://www.ebay.com/itm/250854901322...84.m1438.l2649 I get my oil filters, spark plugs, cap and rotor from the dealer. Not as expensive as it is made out to be and about same as parts store.

Here is some other information that may help if you need to dig further into it. Since your truck is running, I suspect it is one of the above already mentioned.>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51897320

 

i suspect that hole is the distributor is a vent hole, mine has the same thing.

 

OSV, thanks for the help on that!


Well, good news/bad news: I just read the codes. First set of codes were 2 (AFM circuit), 7 (TPS circuit), 8 (Air Thermo Sensor circuit), 11 (either A/C Check T Connector circuit or TPS - IDL point OFF).

I went ahead and reset the codes and then read them again before attempting to start the engine. This time I only got codes 7 and 11. Seems to run a lot better today too, though it's still running pretty bad.


I tested my TPS last night and though I thought it was good (I'm going to test it again in a little bit). I'm also going to shoot the wires from the sensor to the ECU to see if they're messed up.

I called the dealership to see about ordering a new one... HOLY COW! They wanted $200-something for it!

 

My TPS makes mine run horrible if it's not sitting right. Sometime I get it to sit right and it will be okay, other times it will shake and run like carp!

 

My TPS makes mine run horrible if it's not sitting right. Sometime I get it to sit right and it will be okay, other times it will shake and run like carp!

 

No idea why it posted twice.

 

Im having similar issues, 85 22r two middle cylinders are not working. I ve replaced all sparkplugs, wires, coil, rotor and have good strong spark. also have equal compression, the plugs in the non working cylinders are wet from gas as well. not sure where my problem lies... ideas???

 

Tonka, have you pulled codes yet? I'd try that. Also, search for "$3 noid light" to find a thread about testing your ecu's firing command to the injectors. Even though the plugs are wet, it might be from the CSI if it's cold and you've tried multiple cranking attempts.

 

Ok, I pulled the TB and put the new TPS on and got it adjusted tonight. Lucky me that it's raining outside, so cleaning the gasket surface up and reinstalling will have to wait another day.

Here's an in-process:



The old one had two pretty loose pins, so I'm hoping it was the problem all along.

Any tips on cleaning the old gasket off the plenum side surface?

 

Fixed!

I got it all bolted together and then I unplugged the battery to clear the codes. After a few minutes I reconnected the battery and fired her back up to find the idle had zero improvements. Frustrated, I just let it continue knocking (literally) around at idle, giving enough throttle to keep it running when it'd get below 600 or so RPM. Then all of a sudden something went "click" and it smoothed out to perfection. Idles better than when I bought it. Stumped, but oh well. Maybe a code or two had been sitting in some sort of NVM until the ECU realized everything was ok. I dunno.

Either way, it's running very well now

 

Maybe the AFM was stuck in a funky spot?

Did you hear an audible "click"? As in a relay turning on?

 

Well, two things...

I was wrong, it's not fixed. Whatever it is is tied somehow to the engine being cold. It did it again today so I sat in the truck keeping it running until it warmed up and then "click" to a smooth idle. Subsequent warm starts were a little sluggish but idles fine at 800 rpm.

Yes, there was an audible click, like a relay opening or closing. Then it smoothed out like butter.

So today I tried testing the Cold Start Injector and Timer Switch. I believe they're testing ok. I don't want to pull the injector for a flow test until I get some more gaskets.

I got 53 ohms between STA and STJ (warm engine. It calls for between 40-60 ohms above 40*C). The FSM isn't entirely clear on which pin is which, so I got the resistance between both of them and ground. One was 122.2 and the other was 70.2, and it calls for 20-80 ohms between STA and ground.

The CSI itself tested out to 4.3 ohms, which is just BARELY above the 2-4 ohms the FSM calls for so I'm sure it's close enough.

pg 216 and 236 of the PDF 1985 FSM.


What other relays would be involved in warm-up or cold engine conditions?

 

New update!!!

I checked the resistance of my coolant temp sender by the CSI timer. It should have read between 3-4 ohms, it read infinite resistance! So I'm going to pick one of those up today. Bad news is that the brittle connector shed the metal clip somewhere so I'd like to replace the whole connector. Does anyone know where I can get a new one? Is that something Toyota would have or am I going to have to order something special from somewhere?

Thanks!

 

I have been looking for some connectors as well. If just the very end broke, it will still stay on, but I want mine in great shape as well. Here is where I have been finding a few things. Maybe they have some connectors.
www.bmotorsports.com
www.connectorsfast.com

 

Yeah, it broke on the very end and the metal retaining thing shot off to who-knows-where.

I checked those guys out but haven't found a match. Also got busy at work today and didn't have time to call and ask them.

I think I'll just see how well it fits and "engineer" something to hold it on if need be until I can get another connector.

After all this one of my goals for this truck is to build a new harness, so I'll be keeping my eye out for new connectors for sure.

 

Almost success!!

Due to the weather in the Northeast, my new CLT isn't here yet (not sure why it shipped from CA to MA to NH to get to AL, but whatever!).

BUUUUT, I went down to radioshack and picked up a potentiometer and a 0.47 ohm resistor. I used the pot to set about 2 ohms (I couldn't find a resistor that size) to let the truck warm up and after it did I put the 0.47 ohm resistor on there with some e-tape to keep it safe. Those resistances come out to about 60*F and about 170*F respectively.

When it's getting proper resistance according to temp, that thing runs awesome! I'm going to drive around a bit this afternoon, and I've still got the pot to use for warm-up if my CLT doesn't make it in tomorrow. It's kind of a pain, but it makes me happy to see it running. Good thing I don't need to commute in it, hahaha.