This may be a lot simpler than I'm making it but I'm having a hard time understanding how a "crawl box dual t-case" works.

I understand terra low's in a dana 20 at 3.71:1, I also understand the 4.1:1's in a dana 300. I can wrap my mind around a divorced t-case set up with an NP205/203 set up. What I can't get my mind to figure out is the crawl box set up in a Toyota.

Here's what I think I understand.

The front t-case gets split in half and the front portion bolts to an adapter like the Marlin Crawler MC07. That adapter then bolts to a full t-case in the back. The front half case is only for high and low, the rear full case (twin sticked) operates the front and rear driveshafts, and thus the axles, either, one at a time or both, in both high and/or low depending on which stick is where.

So the front stick is what *H-N-L* and the rear two are both *H-N-L* but for each axle??

Please don't flame me too much for a rookie question. I'm trying to get this figured out so I can try and plan for the dual case install.

 

Toyota cases can't be truly twin sticked. In a toyota case, one shift rail operates 4wd, and the other operates low range. You cannot drive just the front axle with a toyota case. You can operate just the rear axle in low range with a twin stick, but you can already do that by unlocking the hubs.

So, the front stick is just for H-N-L, and the rear stick actually operates 4WD, as well as H-N-L like a traditional case. The middle case or "crawl box" merely acts as a reduction box.

 

And if you REALLY wanted to be a FWD you could put one of these in:

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...4954989bd428c8

 

On a set of dual cases with 4.7 gears installed:

Front shifter knob: 2.28 (H-N-L)
Rear twin stick: 4.7 (H-N-L) on left, 2WD/4WD on right

http://www.trail-gear.com/shifter-dual.html

Twin stick shifters allow Independent control of the hi/lo and 2wd/4wd sections of your Toyota gear driven transfer case. This allows access to low range 2wd operation. It also allows you to shift in and out of 4wd while driving on the trail without the need to stop. Access to 2wd low range allows easier steering and less driveline binding when you are traveling between obstacles on the trail.

 

with just a few trail runs on my '81 with an aussie locker up front I am glad I invested in a FROR twin stick.. I think I would have busted something by now..

good question though...

 

Thanks Wabbit! I thought that each stick in a twin stick configuration activated the axles. With the ability to pull the rig in and out of 4X (unlocking the front end) it'll make the turns easier with an Aussie in the front end.

So without spending the extra cash on the 4.7:1 kit I can run......... bear with me on this one.

Front case is 2.28:1
Rear case is also 2.28:1
So in compound low I'll be at what 4.56:1 and still be able to open the front end with the stick on the right so I can make a turn without binding the front end???

I ask because picking up a factory case around here is less than 50$ and that limited expense will let me save money for the MC adapter. I can't afford the 4.7 gear set.

 

Yep, you don't have to upgrade to 4.7 gears and it works the same way with a twin stick.

Much easier to tear into all of it and do at once than tearing apart the duals twice. Just my opinion.

 

I understand the need to do it all at once. With this one though I'm on a strict budget.


I hate not having money.

 

Man, I've been wanting to put a twin stick in my truck for a while!

 

Hell I've wanted a new drivers seat in mine for a while........

 

Yeah, I know what you mean! I scored a "new" seat from a '91 4Runner after I snapped the lumar suport and blew out something in the seat that allowed my tailbone to smack into the rear crossbar!

 

gosh my seat is the same, it is bottomed out and likes like saggy, um never mind. i was also wondering about how they work and now it clear as mud.