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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

crank pulley...

Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:23 AM
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elnino's Avatar
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crank pulley...

so how do i remove it? do i need a puller?...or is there a trick for that?
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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Use a gear/pulley puller. Can rent/buy them at most auto places.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:46 AM
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Donny, you're out of your element
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Crank pulley? Or harmonic balancer.

The crank pulley drivers the timing belt, the balancer drives the accessories.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:48 AM
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if its the one im thinking of, on the harmonic balancer, just take an impact to it.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:48 AM
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No puller needed. Should come right off. Same with harmonic balancer.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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so they should just be able come out once i remove the bolt?....
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 91Toyota
No puller needed. Should come right off. Same with harmonic balancer.
The problem, oft times, is those pulleys rust or corrode on there. I have had them both ways when working on vehicles. One Prizm (Corolla) I worked on had the crank pulley (drive gear) rusted on so bad, i had to beat it with a large hammer and a pry bar. That of course destroyed it, and I had to buy a new one from toyota for $40.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:59 AM
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Hijack but didn't want to start a new thread. Is there a way to remove the timing cover, waterpump housing without dropping the oil pan? Looking at it, appears I have to drop the pan. Any tricks out there?!
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 87LVRunner
Hijack but didn't want to start a new thread. Is there a way to remove the timing cover, waterpump housing without dropping the oil pan? Looking at it, appears I have to drop the pan. Any tricks out there?!
Take out the 4 or 6 bolts holding the pan to the timing cover, and then unbolt the timing cover.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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just drop the oil pan, if your drivers side guide was is missing.. trust me its worth it.
i droped mine by unbolting 3 bolts for the front diff.. after that it'll give you enough clearance to work. I pulled a handfull of plastic out of my pan.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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I would take the pan all the way out to get the plastic chunks off of the pickup screen, trust me, they are there. I have done 8 of them. As for the pully, if it wont come off pop it a few times with a rubber or dead blow hammer and it might pop loose
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
The problem, oft times, is those pulleys rust or corrode on there. I have had them both ways when working on vehicles. One Prizm (Corolla) I worked on had the crank pulley (drive gear) rusted on so bad, i had to beat it with a large hammer and a pry bar. That of course destroyed it, and I had to buy a new one from toyota for $40.
Yep...I have a harmonic balancer puller for an old 460 block I had. I was going to put it in my ford ranger but decided I could never afford it. lol
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Just did the pan not too long ago. Chain, guides, and HG were done at 180K. I'm at 242K now with the coolant leak. Yeah, the shop that did teh job originally is in another state. (previous owner) So, it's all off again and I am going to replace it all including the head, cam, valves. Big fun!
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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i though it was hard trying to put hte pan back in with that oil picking line in there.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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Not if you drop the front diff out of the way, gives you plenty of drop room
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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oh i did, i found it just trick to apply rtv to the pan when it was under there
i guess i couldve applied it while it was out
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