1986_1-ton_22RE

Plenty of online info about replacing the clutch, which is what I was doing, so I don't get into that.
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Plan (buy) ahead. Check part numbers before ordering to ascertain use on your vehicle:

Marlin Crawler makes heavy duty delrin seats and sockets for the shifter. The OEM seat on mine had completely
disintegrated. I replaced it long before I did this clutch job, but if you're dropping the trans and haven't
already installed the Marlin Crawler parts, now's the time. Use a liberal amount of grease inside and out on
these parts before installation.

There's a seal around the trans output shaft, under the shroud at the tail of the trans case. It's probably
easier to replace it while you have the trans out, but should you skip this step, I believe it's accessible with the
trans in place by removing the drive shaft (in my truck, the intermediate shaft).
Toyota part number: 90311-38032

I needed to remove a crossmember bolted to the underside of each frame rail. The shoulders of the bolts on my
truck (2 on each side, 4 total) were very worn, and needed replacing. Toyota part number: 90119-12007
I also used a tap to chase the threads in the holes (M12x1.25).

Gear oil. If you haven't changed it in a while, now's the perfect time. It's really easy to add the new oil
from the top while the shifter is removed. Lots of discussion online about what to use.

The rubber on my center support bearing had deteriorated. Toyota no longer sells it, and I wasn't able to
find a replacement that I was happy with. The captive nuts on the SKF HB1380-30 I ordered from Amazon
(shipped from SKF USA, so not a counterfeit) used the wrong thread pitch, and it lacked the notches on
the mounting bracket that indicate which side faces forward (I have no idea why they're directional).
Timken offers one, but I couldn't find any info on where it's made or whether it's any good. Despite that,
if you need one, may as well replace it now. Maybe someone here can recommend one.

Check the u-joints while you have the shaft out. Mine seem ok after 37 years, but my truck only has 110,000
miles.

The fuel filter is easier to get to when the trans is out.
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I started by draining the gear oil. I also removed the shifter *and* the retainer (the support case that holds
the shifter in position) for better clearance between the trans case and the trans tunnel. Some say removing
only the shifter is enough, keeping the oil/retainer in place. I would do it this way again, but you may
decide against it. There's a gasket/splash guard between the retainer and the trans case which has six metal
washers centered in the bolt holes. The washers are a little wider than the holes, which means there is a
little pressure holding them in place, but you must be careful to avoid dropping them into the transmission.
I held the rubber in place as I removed the retainer - even so, one washer was missing. I checked the underside
of the retainer, but it wasn't there. I used the magnet on the blunt end of a metal scribe to remove each of
the five remaining washers. Luckily, the missing one had fallen into the rearward, shallow part of the
opening, and was easily fished out using the magnet. When reinstalling (after the trans was bolted back in),
I smeared a thin layer of CRC Brake Caliper grease (it's safe for rubber) around the lip of the opening,
pressed the gasket/splash guard into place, and used the magnet and my fingers to press each washer back
into a hole. The grease prevented the gasket from moving and helped hold the washers flat in place.
After that it was easy to bolt the retainer back on.

I did this job in a driveway, with the truck on jackstands. I barely had enough clearance to pull the trans
out from under the truck once it was dropped, so try to raise the truck as high as you safely can.

One of the bolts isn't easy to see. It's hidden behind the clutch fork/clutch slave cylinder, and goes
through the clutch housing and threads into the engine block (meaning it screws in toward the front of
the truck, the head faces the back).

Removing the trans is already well documented, so I'll skip the details, but I tried a couple things I haven't
seen done elsewhere that made the job easier for me.

It seems the two top bolts give people the most trouble. I've seen videos of people accessing these bolts by
using socket extensions over the trans case. I did this successfully on the passenger side bolt, but on the
driver's side the edge of the trans tunnel prevented the socket from getting high enough to reach the bolt
head. You may have better luck.

For me, the top bolts were most accessible from under the hood. I have a set of combination wrenches that
have perhaps a 10-15 degree offset on the box-end side. That angle was enough for the wrench to cleanly
engage the bolts and point the remainder of the wrench in a direction that gave clearance past the firewall.
The wrench itself, however, wasn't long enough to provide the leverage necessary to loosen the bolts. The
clearance was sufficient to slide the box end of a second, longer combination wrench over the open end of the
first combination wrench to extend its effective length. If you're not familiar with this, it's the same
principle as using a piece of strong pipe to extend the handle of a ratchet or breaker bar. Just slide the
box end of the "extension" wrench over one "fork" of the open ended side of the wrench that goes on the bolt.
You'll figure out how they have to "mate" to push the wrench in either direction. I had to use masking tape
to keep the pair of wrenches mated together, though, because they kept coming apart when I tried to get them
into position. The passenger side bolt was easily accessible. On the driver's side bolt, the heater control
valve and heater core hoses interfered a bit, but this method was still the only one that worked for me.
Once loosened, both bolts turned easily by hand. Upon installation, I tightened them the same way.

The biggest problem I encountered was lowering the trans to my driveway. The bottom rear of the transmission
case has a convex hump that rests on the chassis crossmember in such a way that it pushes the trans forward
when you're trying to lower the front of the clutch housing past the clutch assembly, making it difficult
to get the necessary clearance. I manhandled it, but wanted a more elegant solution for raising it back into
position, some way that would also allow me to finesse the trans to get all the bolt holes properly lined up.
The method I chose would have eased removal, as well, had I thought of it earlier.

To install the trans, I used two motorcycle tie downs, one on either side of the trans, to control the
fore-and-aft and side-to-side movement. First I raised the tail of the trans case and moved the trans back,
so the weight of the tail was now supported by the crossmember. I looped one hook of each tie down through
the upper bolt holes of the clutch housing, and the other hook around the torsion bar adjustment bolts that go
through the crossmember. I cinched the tie downs as tight as I could, and then positioned a floor jack under
the trans case. I alternated between raising the jack and tightening the tie downs (I couldn't find mine,
but I suspect ratcheting tie downs would work better than the spring loaded "pinch" type I was using).
The tie downs held the trans rearward so the front of the case cleared the clutch assembly. The floor jack
raised the trans to the proper height to slide the main shaft through the splines of the clutch disc and
into the pilot bearing. Remove the hooks and slide the trans home.

Make sure all the holes line up. Get some bolts started and finger tight on both sides of the trans
to keep them aligned and then tighten the larger bolts to draw the clutch housing to the block before
stressing the threads in the smaller holes.

Jimkola

A 3 foot extension for your wrench when doing the top two bell housing bolts