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Correct Idle Setting Procedure

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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 07:37 AM
  #1  
wildman326's Avatar
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From: Tornado Alley
Correct Idle Setting Procedure

I'm sure there's a good place to get this but I don't know where, so I'm reaching into the collective intelligence here to see what comes up.

I took off the throttle dampener a few weeks ago and had some trouble with my 89 Toyota 4X4 xtcab dying at at stoplights sometimes.

So I put it back on, and now when I take my foot off of the gas it revs the motor up to 2k. I think I need to adjust it because I tightened up the throttle about the same time I took off the dampener. Which would make the cable tighter and therefore not set at the right place when I take my foot off of the gas.

It's my understanding that I should use the slot-headed metal screw and the timing to get a good idle. Should I do that at warm or cold engine temp?

Is there a procedure for setting everything up to get the proper idle?

What does that plastic slot-headed screw do?

Any help would be appreciated!!
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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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From: Georgetown, KY
Adjust it while the engine is hot. Cross TE E1 in your diagnosis box and then tweak your idle. No idea about the plastic screw. Kinda wondering that myself.
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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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Set idle speed when hot. Plastic screw is the idle-up valve that is used to bump up the idle when A/C or P/S is used at idle.
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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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From: WA
Better make sure your TPS is properly adjusted. It might not be which would advance timing and raise the idle speed. Then when you try to set base timing, you end up setting it way too late and have no power. You must have some slack in your throttle cable.
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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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i have this same problem with that dashpot in. it idles at 2 grand, but without it, it runs fine, so i just took it out completely and have been running it like that for like 4 months
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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From: WA
Originally Posted by 943kgt
i have this same problem with that dashpot in. it idles at 2 grand, but without it, it runs fine, so i just took it out completely and have been running it like that for like 4 months
The dashpot is only to keep the engine from going right to an idle which rasies HC or hydrocarbons. Its just basically allows it to slowly come back to idle. The rig will run fine without it.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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how do you adjust the TPS and might that be a reason that my runner varies rpm at 2k rpm it just sways up and down.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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From: Oswego County, NY (no, not near NYC)
Originally Posted by toyota_mdt_tech
You must have some slack in your throttle cable.
I'm misunderstanding this. Are you saying he has slack and shouldn't, or should have it and doesn't? Thanks.
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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From: Tornado Alley
OK. I fiddled with the dashpot and the tension on the throttle cable and it worked better, but now when I dome off of the highway sometimes it will die?!?!
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jovis
I'm misunderstanding this. Are you saying he has slack and shouldn't, or should have it and doesn't? Thanks.
C: none of the above. I was saying he doesnt have slack (based on his explanation) and he needs it. Some anyway, or it can always be tugging on his throttle blade.
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Old Dec 19, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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From: Oswego County, NY (no, not near NYC)
I got it now. Thank you.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #13  
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From: Placerville, CA
Originally Posted by langzaiguy
Adjust it while the engine is hot. Cross TE E1 in your diagnosis box and then tweak your idle. No idea about the plastic screw. Kinda wondering that myself.
Is this true? I was wondering because you can fail Cali smog if your idle is too high. After you un-short TE and E1, the idle comes up again.

What does the idle come up to when TE and E1 are un-shorted?
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