Reno_eNVy

Hey all. '92 3VZE 3.slo SR5

I had been tearing apart everything trying to find a coolant leak, thinking it was the intake manifold gasket. I discovered it's actually leaking from the inlet on the idler pulley I'm just glad I didn't take it in; I would have been charged ridiculous amounts if I told them the leak was at the manifold gasket.

So the image below shows how much I've taken off. I just have a few questions:



1) What's the best gasket for the idler pulley? Actual gasket or RTV? And if RTV, which kind?

2) Do I have to remove the timing belt? I'd really rather not. Is it possible to mark the belt and CAM gears, remove the pulley (possibly keeping weight/tension on the belt), and replace it?

3) I see in the manual and from sources online that I need to replace the "crush washers" on the fuel rails (removed the one that goes from the right fuel tube to the cold start injector) but I've searched on store websites and can't find what I'm looking for. Are they called something different?

4) Should I get a new gasket that goes between the intake manifold and chamber? And is that a gasket that requires RTV silicone as well?

5) Is there a gasket for the cold start injector because there wasn't one when I took it off.

6) I busted a couple hoses: the two water bypass lines on the driver side of the intake chamber and three on the passenger side. I'm not sure what to look for as far as finding replacement parts. What do I search for, or is there a handy post that lists part numbers for vacuum and water hoses?


Thanks in advance for any and all help!

jbtvt

Any rtv should work fine for that, clean surfaces well. If you have the cams lined up at the marks and they stay that way when you bolt it back up you should have no issues with timing. You can reuses crush washers - clean and heat them up red hot with map gas, or wven propane for thinner ones and put em back.

jbtvt

Reuse intake gasket, csi should have one too. Rtv it, carefully

Reno_eNVy

Thank you. That really helps. I didn't want to have to take out all the belts and pulleys just to deal with the timing belt

RTV both or just the intake? Will the CSI gasket be metal?

jbtvt

Wait a sec...yeah rtv and gas don't get along. Hit up toyota for the csi gasket if youre concerned about a leak or try something like http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85420...m/B007VIGCJW/2

No rtv needed on the intake gasket

Reno_eNVy

Thank you very much!

Reno_eNVy

CURSES! I couldn't put enough tension on the timing belt while removing the idler pulley so it looks like I'm redoing the timing! YAAAY (read: Fuuuuuuudge)

jbtvt

Teeth slipped? For future readers, if I were attempting this I would try putting a woodworking clamp spanning both cam gears to hold the belt tight and in position, or even a small c clamp on each. Maybe someone else knows a better, tried and true way.

Reno_eNVy

Yup that's what I would have done in hindsight.

I don't have to remove the belt... is there any way of knowing where the timing notch on the crank shaft gear is without removing the pulleys? Because I don't have an impact gun...

jbtvt

I didn't either until I did my first 3vze timing belt, good time to invest

You don't need to see the gear, just line up the timing mark on your pulley with the 0 timing mark on the plastic piece right above it and the mark on each cam with each mark on the cover. Because you weren't set up for this before you now should make sure you're TDC compression - pull the #1 plug and stick something clean that won't break or scratch the cylinder like a fiberglass stake and crank until it is at the highest point ( by crank I mean manually, with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, not by keying it!). Crank sprocket turns twice for each cam revolution so 0 on the pulley isn't necessarily TDC #1.

scope103

You don't need to do this; the cam DETERMINES whether TDC on the crank is the compression or exhaust stroke. Just set the crank at TDC; 0 on the pulley MEANS that #1 is at the top of one of the two strokes. (You don't need a feeler on top of the piston.) Then set up the cam pulleys with the mark up. This step is what makes the TDC you just set TDC on the compression stroke.

Just so you know, the 3VZE is a non-interference engine, so you can safely turn the cam with any piston at TDC.

Okay, now what? You're going to need to put 181 ft-lbs (!!) on the crank bolt; how are you going to keep the crank from turning? No, an impact gun is no use at all; if it can get that high (big-ass gun) it can easily shoot right on past. You're going to need a tool to hold the crank (think how great it would have been if you had made the tool BEFORE you removed the bolt?) There are many cleverly made tools featured on this site; I (of course) am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/

jbtvt

Dammit, do you know how long it took me to find a clean, thin, unbreakable object to stick down my plug hole last time I did a belt??

Makes sense, good to know