Good point on the filament life. What's your reasoning for having a relay in the DRL circuit? Obviously voltage drop isn't a concern with a resistor present.

 

Electrically ideal setup would be switching with a relay to connect two HB filaments in series in DRL mode. No need for resistor, No power loss in resistor. However, I think that would require too much relay logic to switch to turn DRL mode on then a safety interlock to make sure filaments are back to stock configuration before low beams/high beams come on. Probably the reason why most vehicles just use resistors.

Would be nice if folks who have reduce-power high beams for DRL's could chime in. Or those with resistors sitting around not needed.

Not concerned with voltage drop, but I don't like control circuit to carry load current.
Regards,
RAD

 

OK, I was thinking about this on the ride home and I (think I) had a eureka moment... Take a look at this -

A little messy, but it includes the basic circuit to relay the HB and LB, a relay for the DRLs, and with two extra SPDT relays, I think this would be what you're looking for. 6v to each HB as soon as you turn on the key (unless optional manual switch is off, in which case lights would also be disabled), but as soon as the combination switch triggers either of the SPDT relays, the DRL circuit is interrupted, and the power triggers the HB or LB relay.
So it's really just a matter of two more relays, and 6 more connections than the basic upgrade has.

PLUS, as a bonus, this circuit would turn off/on the LB/HB automatically when you turn off/on the truck, a feature I miss on the older vehicles. To be able to use the lights with IGN off would require one additional switch between the battery and the HB or LB relay. Did I overlook anything?

*EDIT* Yes I did. Above would still require a resistor wouldn't it. I think eliminating the resistor would be possible with yet another SPDT relay, triggered in tandem with the SPST DRL relay and wired after ground of left hand light. It would switch between normally closed to ground, basically doing nothing, to contacting the HB of the right hand light if current was present at the DRL relay, thereby putting the two HBs in series. Yeah, lots of relay to have HB DRLs! I've got to get to work, but what do you think? Finally a workable solution?

 

So i have a 1992 4runner that does not have sealed beam headlights in it. Would i be able to put the 5x7 lenses in there. I have a friend who can get me the LED lights and if they would fit i wouldn't mind trying them out. So would they fit in my runner?

 

You'd need to convert to an earlier model grill. Then, yes, they'd fit.

Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

 

So busy at work to analyze but looks good!
Thanks, jbtvt, but too complicated so it clashes with my reason for getting a first gen Runner
I'm also considering stand-alone LED DRL's - simple install and efficiency. Classic Yota looking like an Audi is tacky but in the end, my "Function before Form" credo may rule

Regards,
RAD

 

I've been contemplating different lights, it's been over 2 decades since I've had such garbage headlights, I hate driving at night. I've looked at h4 and hid; h4's seem for me the best option that is legal. I talked to a friend of mine at the local RCMP detachment, they are writing tickets and ensuring drivers comply with the DOT laws regarding headlights; we've had two of our company trucks written up. For me to convert to anything aftermarket, it's $150 to over $300, plus making a new harness with relays, etc. I've decided to go with the truck lite 5x7 leds, they are legal (and approved by the RCMP), plug into the stock 3-blade connector, and put out some great light. They are expensive, but I found a site that sells them for $209/apiece; with shipping up here it was $461.00. Yes they are pricey but I've been following various websites to see how they work for the last year, seems like the work very well. Check out the info here - http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1082758 - they compare them to various LED's and HIDS. Mine will be here next week, I'll let you know how things go.

 

Ahhhh finally someone pulls the trigger NICE!! Maybe an install thread or review thread will be wonderful!!! I am going to buy them as soon as the bonus and taxes roll in.

And umm do tell me about this site you ordered them from PLEASE!!

 

i wish they would do that here in California, as well, 'cause those HID's in improper reflector housing are really annoying and blinding.

Good for you, Johnny! Those are surely some good lights, PLUS with claimed "1.8 amps on low and 3.8 amps on highbeam", you would not need the h4 upgrade harness anymore.

 

here's the site - http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-1...headlight.aspx - There's a code on the naxja (warning, you may get *heep* cooties!) site for an extra 5% if you read there but I forgot to put it in


The two we were written up for had these done at a local shop ($800 bill) and even the shop told our guys that they may not be legal. I don't get it with brand new vehicles, they have decent lights from factory.

 

Well this thread is a year old, but I'm going to say I'm not to impressed with the Autopal h4s. My highs stay on with my lows, and one of my lenses is cracked. While the other one is rusting inside or burning.

 

Just installed IPF lenses over the weekend...outstanding quality.

 

I really like this thread because it's nice and informative, and there is nothing offensive to me about a long lived thread.

So as a stock sealed lamp guy here is just some things to ponder over.

Lows staying on with high beams, violates the federal motor safety rules, the reason some manufacturers do this is because it increases bulb life eg they are more reliable and efficient the higher temp they run at.

HID's suck, they squeeze thru the regulations and testing by using the projected light tests instead of the apprarent brightness. it don't matter where your cut off lines are when you're exceeding the apparent brightness.

All headlamps are supposed to be WHITE 6800(just pulled that out my butt-memory, but it's close), there is no allowance for any other color temperature variation in the federal motor safety book.

I want me a big bright set of blue screw'u lights like every third car that blinds me going down the highway at night so I can be a douche too! Lest we forget the guys that drive around with thier fog lights on too, ARRGG!

I'm not jealous, just mad I can't play the blind ppl game too.

I cleaned up my who knows how many year old headlamp plugs and got a signifigant increase, can't wait till I get a chance to up the wiring guage

 

 

I probably wouldn't whine if we had street lamps out here.

Oh I forgot to mention tail gaters, YOU SUCK TOO

 

Yes, this thread was started LAST year but its barely 2 months old. Regardless, there no reason why you can't bump an older thread with up to date information.

I checked those autopal lights out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-...item4d0155ffc2

They sound good (glass, metal), but the price is too good to be true.

I've been driving with my Hella e-code H4 lights for two months now and I am still blown away by the VAST IMPROVEMENT over my ˟˟˟˟ty sealed beam stock lights. I love the extra-wide, even spread of light on low beam. The high beam seemed narrow to me at first, but its like have a powerful spot light shine down the dark country road. For those of you who want a DOT approve H4 light (the e-codes are not blinding to oncoming traffic) Hella and a few others do make them. And even though I am only using about 65% of my light potential with my stock wiring and 1.35 V voltage drop I actually enjoy driving at night in my 18 year old yota.

Though the LED lights sound awesome, at 4 times the price of my Hellas I can't seem to justify them. For about $100 my Hellas are a major upgrade.

JohnnyCanuck, it would great if you could post your impression of your new trucklite LEDS!

 

I added some info with pics last night on my thread here, I'm going to get some better pics, only had them in for a day.

 

I wish I would've saved up for some quality Hellas! I'm going to use my Autopals untill they rust completly

 

I saw that ebay link as well, $27, I emailed him but never got an answer.

 

Did a review on the truck-lites

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...review-265275/

Still need more night shots but overall well worth the loot