Cold start injector thermal time switch
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cold start injector thermal time switch
90' 4runner 22re
Im pretty sure mine is bad because it starts strong when its cold but if I let it cool down for atleast 10 mins or so it sputters upon startup and the idle slowly climbs up to where it should be.
Anyway I'll confirm its bad soon enougj but Im wondering if this could also be giving me a high cold start idle? Doesnt matter if its 30*C or 0*C. It always idles at 1000 then slowly climbs to 1700-1800. Its fine during the winter months but I hate it when it idles that high on a warm summer day! Could it be the cold start injector going off or related to a bad thermal time switch?
Im pretty sure mine is bad because it starts strong when its cold but if I let it cool down for atleast 10 mins or so it sputters upon startup and the idle slowly climbs up to where it should be.
Anyway I'll confirm its bad soon enougj but Im wondering if this could also be giving me a high cold start idle? Doesnt matter if its 30*C or 0*C. It always idles at 1000 then slowly climbs to 1700-1800. Its fine during the winter months but I hate it when it idles that high on a warm summer day! Could it be the cold start injector going off or related to a bad thermal time switch?
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
you describe two different problems, which cannot both be the result of a defective csts. if the csts is not working, the csi won't work, either. the csi only fires for a very brief period WHILE THE KEY IS IN THE "START" POSITION. it does not pulse/fire during warmup, or at any other time.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ Ok I see, any other ides what may be causing the high idle?
And just confirmed my cold start switch is indeed working. Anything else worth looking at for the warm start issue?
And just confirmed my cold start switch is indeed working. Anything else worth looking at for the warm start issue?
#4
Like Wallytoo says^^^.
AND If temp-dependent problem, one simple and important step is to eliminate doubts on temp-sensors and their connection to the ECU.. All temp sensors AND THEIR MOUNTING THREADS should be cleaned down to bare, shiny metal at least once every 27 years
Do not use insulating sealant on threads.
AND If temp-dependent problem, one simple and important step is to eliminate doubts on temp-sensors and their connection to the ECU.. All temp sensors AND THEIR MOUNTING THREADS should be cleaned down to bare, shiny metal at least once every 27 years
Do not use insulating sealant on threads.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
this may or may not have anything to do with your high idle. simple enough to check, and free. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post1159391
wally
wally
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Like Wallytoo says^^^.
AND If temp-dependent problem, one simple and important step is to eliminate doubts on temp-sensors and their connection to the ECU.. All temp sensors AND THEIR MOUNTING THREADS should be cleaned down to bare, shiny metal at least once every 27 years
Do not use insulating sealant on threads.
AND If temp-dependent problem, one simple and important step is to eliminate doubts on temp-sensors and their connection to the ECU.. All temp sensors AND THEIR MOUNTING THREADS should be cleaned down to bare, shiny metal at least once every 27 years
Do not use insulating sealant on threads.
this may or may not have anything to do with your high idle. simple enough to check, and free. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post1159391
wally
wally
Trending Topics
#11
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Erratic Idle can be caused by having air in the cooling system. I raise the front end really high and let it idle and cycle the Thermostat 3-4 times to get the air out of the cooling system. You will need to leave the radiator cap off while this is happening.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I removed my radiator to get at the front main not too long ago. Had to hit it with air. Of course I completely forgot to bleed it afterwards so hopefully that's it!
#13
I have not taken a very close look at other sensors but yes, the CSI timer Switch requires good electrical contact between sensor and block.
CSI is only powered while cranking. However, if it leaks it could cause issue even when not powered. Here's how it works. (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52339700)