The new high idle is quite likely the fpu vsv got its vacuum lines plugged in backwards, if you swap them this would create a path thru the filter cap for unmetered air to enter the intake.

 

 

 

 

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We do know!

Temp switch TSB

 

Ohh, I wasn't aware of the TSB. Thanks for posting this! I guess I should check early and often lol.

So given that I only have a 22R cabureted truck, I only have the FSM and your pictures people have posted to reference. What sensor, exactly, does YotaRick27, have on the thermostat housing? Is the correct sensor installed to begin with?

Is the TSB saying that after replacing the improved components that the A/C switch is no longer needed or does it still need to be connected to feed information to the A/C amplifier and just not the ECU?

I guess what I am really getting at is how is YotaRick27 supposed to fix the sensor issue on top of the thermostat housing?

Also, as a side note for Co_94_PU, where do you get your TSBs from?

 

That tsb was from a thread here about this/similar issue. Typical from Google, ttora has a good set also iirc.

We are not sure what that sensor is on his thermostat housing. It looks like either the factory AC switch, of a dash water temp sender. (Sorry I haven't gone out to storage to get photos of the markings on these two parts, from memory one has a #J the other #Y or #F or something like that. There is identifying marks on the hex area). This "fixed" part number is possibly discontinued, that doesn't mean for certain that there isn't an aftermarket one available or preclude using a newer models. This part was corrected mid run of 88, so something between late 88 untill the end of the 22re production is needed.

Not sure about the idle up wiring will try and remember to look at it during break later.

 

 

Gnarly Arctic storm rolling through, yay (if you're in Florida...)

A new pump will mask power issues, for awhile. Be sure to check that battery and pump voltage, while the pump is running preferably via the relay and not the jumper (a bad/dirty relay will effect the voltage and current)

We would appreciate a current number also if you have a high amp meter (clamp style, typical 10amp meter isnt capable of going high enough). With both pumps.

 

88 wiring shows this..

To the right of the vsv is power from fuse. To the left are two branches one to the ECU and one to the AC "amplifier" on the ground side.

So it is possible the AC could be triggering idle up, however with out more analysis of the amplifier box can't say for certain it isn't strictly an input..

 

 

Rick,
Pull which wire from the ECU harness? (Being very, overly, specific helps forum members and readers in the future)

For example I thought you meant the TSW, Rasa thinks you mean the ACU..

While I can agree time is money, we think "I'll just throw part "X" it probably needs it anyway. Most non-wear parts out going to outlive all of us , excluding physical damage. Also most of us don't make 100-120$/HR (diagnostics charges). So generally speaking DIY diagnostics is free, especially when you already have the tools. The old saying "an ounce of prevention" fits well here.

Regarding the TSB parts and discontinued from the dealer parts, you can always source these from the salvage yards (either local, or the Toyota specific ones like Jim's in denver) but they still need tested. There are also very likely aftermarket or substitute parts from other makes and models that can be adapted for the use once you understand the parts function and purpose.

 

Exactly. Besides, the CSI will not cause NO-start, unless it is leaking.

I do not think Yotarick's TS is stock. Here's what I have on my 1986 that runs well (with very occasionally rough idle after warm start that goes away as soon a I pull out of my parking spot):

 

 

Don't be too bummed!

The old pump with pick-up screen in it certainly wasn't helping you and probably prevented future problems.

Plus, it looks like your fuel pressure is better.

The 12.89 running volts seems low. My truck runs at the upper 13 volt range.

Stick with it! You will eventually discover the problem(s).

 

Ok. So the new pump is giving in spec pressure, this is FPU active(?) reading around 40psi. (Review the FSM page I posted earlier, if you are not sure)

Battery voltage with the engine running is around 12.8. What is the voltage at the ECU? (Take both readings one after the other, we need to know battery versus ECU to rule out voltage drop issues from a bad efi relay or grounding problem).

Regard to the stall. You want to reset the efi learned trim by disconnecting the battery positive cable for about ten minutes (its very cold out, typically 30 seconds to five minutes but let's over do it to be sure). It might have just been a fluke also, does it not stay running at all now?

Disconnect any wire you might still have to the thermostat housing sensor. We are pretty certain it is not the OEM Temp switch #2 at this point, and you certainly aren't running air-condition in this weather.

We still need to know the state of the FPU vsv in all three states, cold start, hot start, and heat soaked no start condition.

In the first post video we see the cold start injector fire repeatedly then after a few cranks it stops. The engine seems to fire off on the first couple cranks then stall out, likely due to the "vacuum leak" from.having the cold start injector orifice open (this is big enough of a leak to stop the vafm from closing the fuel pump circuit) and is what we'd expect to see after the COR shuts down when it expects the vafm to take over FP activation. I am not really sure why the CSI stopped functioning, its possible its die to internal heating of the CSI switch heating up from multiple crank/stating attempts also possible indications of a grounding issue (when a bad ground passes current it will produce heat at the bad junction which increases the resistance, this is why we keep saying to do voltage drop tests of the ground wires)

Hopefully all that makes sense, its way passed midnight. If not speak up ask questions and someone can translate my random babble probably..
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Well I made it to work and left the fuel pressure gauge on to check it hot. Back to 31-35psi, rechecked battery voltage. Now at 14.5V at idle. Had a high idle so I turned down the idle screw, then I tried again to switch the VSV lines truck died both ways. Does someone have a pic of the vacuum lines from the FPR to the VSV so I know they are correct? Going to pick up a new EFI relay today $12.00 maybe on lunch or after work. I did notice that cold the VSV did not do anything until warm then kicked on to where I pull the line there is vacuum.

 

This is the wire I'm talking about:
Or is this only when installing an aftermarket item then plug it back in?

 

The one near the electrical plug goes to the intake (gas filter), the one near the cap (dust filter) goes to the regulator. You can always verify a vsv is routed correctly by blowing/sucking the lines, the device being switched (regulator, egr, ac idle up) will pass air via the dust cap and the intake side will not.

The AC idle up needs disconnected permenatly from the ecu IF you use the updated thermal switch. So it isn't relevant in your current situation, you don't have thermal switch number two and the wire to it should be disconnected (make sure those wires are insulated so they can't touch any grounding metal).

Fuel pressure of 31 is beyond spec. Could be the guage is a little off, could be the filter on the engine, could be electrical (there is an access panel under the seat to test this).

Think I already posted one of the FSM pages for testing the FPU, its the one with the ~35-40 psi numbers, do that test please.

And again I ask for the voltage tests. Voltage at ECU, voltage at fuel pump, voltage drop tests on the ground wires for both.

If you want to throw the new efi relay on regardless, we still want to see the before and after voltages.