Skater78

My 87 pickup with 22re popped when starting and then the check engine light came on. It runs really ragged while idling. When you try to rev it quickly it acts like its choking. If you baby it and get up to higher rpm's it runs better. From my checking of the codes it seems that code 2 is the mass airflow sensor but code 11 has many possible problems. Any suggestions?

MudHippy

Code 2
Air Flow Meter signal

• Open circuit in Vc, or Vs-E2 short circuited.
• Open circuit in E2, or Vc-Vs short circuited.

Inspect the AFM circuits. If they are o.k., then the wiring between the AFM and ECU needs checked. If not then replace the AFM and/or fix the wiring. If the wiring and circuits are o.k., then the ECU needs replaced.

_______________________________

Code 11
Switch signal

• Short circuit in terminal T when air conditioner switch ON or IDL contact OFF.

Inspect the air conditioner switch(and/or turn the air conditioner switch off while checking for diagnostic codes). If the air conditioner switch and the wiring for it are o.k., then inspect the Throttle Position Sensor IDL circuit(and/or fully close the throttle valve while checking for diagnostic codes). If the IDL contact is OFF/open with the throttle valve fully closed, then adjust the TPS. If the TPS won't adjust to within specifications and/or the wiring for it isn't o.k., or for whatever other reason the TPS circuits are bad, then replace/fix the TPS and/or the wiring. If the TPS and the air conditioner switch(and their wires/circuits) are both o.k. then replace the ECU.

Skater78

I started my 87 pickup the other day and heard a pop sound and ever since the check engine light is on. It runs like crap and if you rev it quickly will either die or make that pop sound. I got codes 2 and 11. From what I can find the code 2 is the max airflow meter. How do I test it to make sure before I get a new one? I have no idea what code 11 is because it looks like it could be a number of things. One that both codes have in common is a possible problem with the ECU. Is that the engine control unit or an emissions control unit?..if there is such a thing. I have been reading other threads and have checked out the EGR, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the oxygen sensor. One thread had similar problems and it ended up being a bad cam. I don't know where to start. The plugs and plug wires are pretty new as is the distributor cap, but could it be the distributor?

Any help would be EXTREMELY appreciated. Thanks!!

scope103

Were you unhappy with the answer in this thread?

You don't have to like any answer you get (you just need to be polite about it), but asking the same question again in a different thread probably isn't a good way to get useful help.

Skater78

Not trying to be rude at all! I have been refreshing that thread all day and honestly never saw it. When you replied to this one and I looked back I was surprised to see it. Thanks to mudhippy for replying!

Skater78

Thanks for replying. I'm not sure how to check all that stuff though but can probably look it up... Do you think these two codes are related?

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

duplicate threads merged

MudHippy

You can download the 85 FSM by clicking this link. Everything you need to know as far as checking for the cause of those codes can be found in it.

Are they related? Not likely, unless the ECU(Engine Control Unit) is shot. Meaning, the diagnostic trouble codes are as accurate as the ECU is.

Those codes are definitely not caused by the:

EGR valve
PCV valve
O2 sensor
Camshaft
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Distributor

Skater78

Ok, thanks. I am obviously not that experienced. I only know what I have learned by fixing what has broken so far. Thanks for the link.

abecedarian

Code 11- Switch Signal can also be thrown if the clutch is pressed or the neutral start safety switch has been activated (if you have it), when starting to read codes. For example, the key is off, jumper is put in, key is turned on with the clutch down can throw this code

Skater78

I do have that switch. Would it work to pull the fuse to clear the codes, put it back in and turn the key on to see if it's still there or do you have to start it. I think I left the jumper in when I started it after clearing the code for the oxygen sensor that I replaced. Not sure if that made any sense to you. I guess I should ask what is the proper way to check if that is all that is causing it.

MudHippy

If you don't have an automatic transmission, then you don't have a neutral start switch(a.k.a. park/neutral position switch), and it doesn't apply to the code 11. And neither would depessing the clutch pedal and closing the clutch start switch(or pushing the clutch start cancel switch button) while the check connectors are jumped if you have a manual transmission. Since they are all ways of controlling the same circuit, just under different names. If the ECU won't throw a code for one, it won't throw a code for the other. AFAIK, the 22R-E code for that type of switch signal condition is actually code 51(but it could be also 11 on an 87, I just can't prove it, beyond citing Chilton who says it actually is). But you can't have a code 51 if you have a code 11 on a 22R-E(you could have codes 11 & 51 if it was an early model 3VZ-E though). A 22R-E either has mostly single digit codes 1-13(pre 88), or only double digit codes 12-71(88+).

You can clear the codes, and then drive the vehicle to see if the codes come back. Which they most likely will. That won't tell you much. You'll have to do some actual troubleshooting to get anywhere from here. That's what the FSM is for.

Good luck!

Skater78

It worketh! Thanks all for the help. I took an afm from an 89 celica at the wrecking yard and put it on my truck and it runs perfect again with no check engine lights on!

MudHippy

Not exactly what I'd call troubleshooting. But a little deductive reasoning can get you pretty far sometimes. I'd still check to see if the code 11 is still present. Because that wasn't caused by the AFM.

BTW, what's the part number on that one? And/or which engine was it on, 3S-FE, 3S-GE, or a 3S-GTE? Just curious. It might help somebody else in a similar situation...

Skater78

Well, I may not have used an electrical meter, but I would say deductive reasoning is the biggest part of troubleshooting. Anyway, thanks a lot for all your help. I don't have any check engine codes now. Not sure why. There are two sets of numbers on the afm that i used. 22250-74020 and 197100-2390 Hope it helps. Thanks again.

abecedarian

The "22250-74020" is the Toyota part number.
The "197100-2390" is the ND (Nippon Denso) part number.

I find it amusing that a VAFM from an 89 celica would work, not that it is impossible but the 89's had a few different engines in them: 3SFE (ST-162 chassis), 3SGE (ST-162 chassis, GT-S option) and 3SGTE (ST-165, All-Trac), but all were 2.0L and had a very different ECU than the 22RE.

But, the ND part number- 197100-2390 does cross to various Celica's, Camry's and the 84-89 4Runners and pickups, turbo included. Which begs the question that if that VAFM can flow enough air to satisfy the turbo, how could it be a restriction to air flow on the n/a engines? ... but I digress.

Good thing to hear- you have it running without error codes.

For what it's worth, my co-workers oft were mad at me because I bypassed the flow-chart troubleshooting procedures. My employer was thankful I did because it saved hours of troubleshooting they weren't getting reimbursed for. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to draw the conclusion that if a<>b and b<>c but a=c, the problem is most likely with b.