Clutch wont engage
#1
Clutch wont engage
Hello my apologies ahead of time if this question has already been asked but I am in need of an expert opinion. I have a 1991 4Runner 3.0 5 speed. I recently replaced the clutch, slave cylinder, and have adjusted the clutch adjustment on the master clynder but clutch will still not engage. I have bleed clutch already and the fluid was dark grey almost black now its clear dot 3. The only thing I have not changed is the master cylinder could it possibly be anything else?? Any advice is much appreciated.
#2
Lets first get this cleared up on what you mean by engage.
1. You can get it into gear but when you let the clutch out it don't go
or
2. You cannot get into gear unless the engine is off.
Yes I have had people on the phone who misinterpret the difference between engaging the clutch by pushing the peddle down or that the clutch engages the trans (letting the peddle up).
Have someone push the clutch peddle in and out (engine off of course) while you watch the slave cylinder and clutch fork move with no free play in between , Should move about 1/4-1/2".
If it does then the problem is in the bellhousing.
If it does not then its the master cylinder.
1. You can get it into gear but when you let the clutch out it don't go
or
2. You cannot get into gear unless the engine is off.
Yes I have had people on the phone who misinterpret the difference between engaging the clutch by pushing the peddle down or that the clutch engages the trans (letting the peddle up).
Have someone push the clutch peddle in and out (engine off of course) while you watch the slave cylinder and clutch fork move with no free play in between , Should move about 1/4-1/2".
If it does then the problem is in the bellhousing.
If it does not then its the master cylinder.
#3
I cannot get into gear unless the engine is off. I just replaced the master cylinder and bleed the clutch too a complete refill with no air in the line. The bell housing bolts I tightened down were a 14mm and 16mm on the two top bolts I believe for a total of 6 around the bell housing....The slave cylinder is new as well as the master, The clutch has less than 6,000 miles on it... This problem got progressively worse until it became impossible too shift.
#4
Registered User
i thought toyotas had a fairly decent problem with bending and cracking of the clutch fork. pretty easy to check just pull the rubber boot around fork and try to look up in there to see if its straight. would make sense that its been getting progressively worse because if it cracked in the right spot the pressure from the pressure plate in theory could bend the fork pretty good till it wouldnt travel far enough to put pressure on the throwout bearing if that makes any sense.
#6
I cannot get into gear unless the engine is off. I just replaced the master cylinder and bleed the clutch too a complete refill with no air in the line. The bell housing bolts I tightened down were a 14mm and 16mm on the two top bolts I believe for a total of 6 around the bell housing....The slave cylinder is new as well as the master, The clutch has less than 6,000 miles on it... This problem got progressively worse until it became impossible too shift.
i adjusted the clutch free play, which helped further, but in the end, the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate was what finally made it shift right.
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