No crank issue
#1
No crank issue
Hi there,
Coming from a former E30 fan, I kind of liked the I6 with belt compared to this rig...(and the Bentley manual was gold)
Anyways I have a '91 pickup 2WD with 5spd. Just replaced the timing chain & tensioner. Pictures to come later (they're interesting to say the least). Right now it's all buttoned up and RTG but I have a problem with cranking. It cranks a little bit then stops. Turning the engine over by hand from the crank bolt, I hear a "click" from the somewhat back of the engine. Seems normal turning it over by hand and I turned it over 6-8 times before I put the timing cover back on to make sure the chain didn't jump a tooth. Everything was A+ in that department.
AFAIK the timing is going to be off. I marked the distributor rotor (took it out at 12 o'clock) and I will say the rotor doesn't quite align. But first the cranking issue -- any ideas? The only wires I know I removed was the one near the AC unit and the one that mounts to the PS pump (if you have it, I don't, mine attaches to the alternator adjusting bracket right to the same bolt for the dipstick tube bolt at the top). Didn't remove any vacuum hoses, only the essentials to get the valve cover off -- tied the whole wiring and vacuum plate that mounts near cyls 2 & 3 out of the way.
New developments: ECU is throwing a code 43.
Coming from a former E30 fan, I kind of liked the I6 with belt compared to this rig...(and the Bentley manual was gold)
Anyways I have a '91 pickup 2WD with 5spd. Just replaced the timing chain & tensioner. Pictures to come later (they're interesting to say the least). Right now it's all buttoned up and RTG but I have a problem with cranking. It cranks a little bit then stops. Turning the engine over by hand from the crank bolt, I hear a "click" from the somewhat back of the engine. Seems normal turning it over by hand and I turned it over 6-8 times before I put the timing cover back on to make sure the chain didn't jump a tooth. Everything was A+ in that department.
AFAIK the timing is going to be off. I marked the distributor rotor (took it out at 12 o'clock) and I will say the rotor doesn't quite align. But first the cranking issue -- any ideas? The only wires I know I removed was the one near the AC unit and the one that mounts to the PS pump (if you have it, I don't, mine attaches to the alternator adjusting bracket right to the same bolt for the dipstick tube bolt at the top). Didn't remove any vacuum hoses, only the essentials to get the valve cover off -- tied the whole wiring and vacuum plate that mounts near cyls 2 & 3 out of the way.
New developments: ECU is throwing a code 43.
#2
Where is everybody?
Weird issues -- it was working perfectly fine before the timing chain thing. Today I poked around the starter relay, I noted about 3 volts to ground. So I looked at the battery with the key out and I get about 11.7 volts. (Probably hasn't helped with all this testing -- it was 12.5 earlier.) Then I turn the key on and it measures about 7 volts. ?????
I took the relay apart and found nothing unusual. Doesn't help that my relay doesn't look like the one in the FSM.
Weird issues -- it was working perfectly fine before the timing chain thing. Today I poked around the starter relay, I noted about 3 volts to ground. So I looked at the battery with the key out and I get about 11.7 volts. (Probably hasn't helped with all this testing -- it was 12.5 earlier.) Then I turn the key on and it measures about 7 volts. ?????
I took the relay apart and found nothing unusual. Doesn't help that my relay doesn't look like the one in the FSM.
#5
Registered User
code 43:
STARTER SIGNAL--NO "STA" SIGNAL TO ECU UNTIL ENGINE SPEED EXCEEDS 800RPM
--IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU
But you are describing a dead battery.....
double check the starter wires. Especially pay attention to the corrosion these wires and the large gauge cable see. I had a weird start issue and fixed it by replacing the large gauge starter cable due to corrosion that worked it's way back into the jacket.
and yes...for the record...please include the engine model you are working on. I and many folks know that the only engines available in 91 were the 22re (timing chain) and 3vz-e (timing belt)...but some of us don't always check this forum.
STARTER SIGNAL--NO "STA" SIGNAL TO ECU UNTIL ENGINE SPEED EXCEEDS 800RPM
--IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU
But you are describing a dead battery.....
double check the starter wires. Especially pay attention to the corrosion these wires and the large gauge cable see. I had a weird start issue and fixed it by replacing the large gauge starter cable due to corrosion that worked it's way back into the jacket.
and yes...for the record...please include the engine model you are working on. I and many folks know that the only engines available in 91 were the 22re (timing chain) and 3vz-e (timing belt)...but some of us don't always check this forum.
Last edited by RBX; 11-29-2013 at 09:56 AM.
#6
My sorrow...
is great. Very much so. =(
When I put the timing chain on, I had the cam timing mark up at 12 o'clock. You can't miss it. I also had the crank at 12 o'clock. I then turned the crank at least 6 times to make sure everything lined up. Dead spack on. Every time.
I think we can all agree that this is TDC.
You will also notice a certain very serious problem.
The link for the chain for the camshaft, is not at 12 o'clock. The camshaft timing dot, well, it's at 6 o'clock.
Prior to this inspect, I was able to rotate the crank by hand.
It is locked. The valves for #1 are under tension. I can now only turn the crank...not much. I took the cover off as you see here just for my (now third) post-install inspection -- just as a curiosity. I was not getting a spark on #1 (using the timing light) but #2, #3 and #4 were firing. Fuel was present on the sparkplugs.
Sad, because I was using another car to help jump the battery. Towards the end there, it was starting to sound a little more spirited in the turning of the starter. Never heard any ticking or whatever valves + pistons sound like.
is great. Very much so. =(
When I put the timing chain on, I had the cam timing mark up at 12 o'clock. You can't miss it. I also had the crank at 12 o'clock. I then turned the crank at least 6 times to make sure everything lined up. Dead spack on. Every time.
I think we can all agree that this is TDC.
You will also notice a certain very serious problem.
The link for the chain for the camshaft, is not at 12 o'clock. The camshaft timing dot, well, it's at 6 o'clock.
Prior to this inspect, I was able to rotate the crank by hand.
It is locked. The valves for #1 are under tension. I can now only turn the crank...not much. I took the cover off as you see here just for my (now third) post-install inspection -- just as a curiosity. I was not getting a spark on #1 (using the timing light) but #2, #3 and #4 were firing. Fuel was present on the sparkplugs.
Sad, because I was using another car to help jump the battery. Towards the end there, it was starting to sound a little more spirited in the turning of the starter. Never heard any ticking or whatever valves + pistons sound like.
#7
Registered User
motor should always be rotated manually several times after timing set install to insure its set correctly and no interference.
you didnt do this? you cranked it over?
If so, this could be ugly.
you didnt do this? you cranked it over?
If so, this could be ugly.
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#8
Originally Posted by 488011
When I put the timing chain on, I had the cam timing mark up at 12 o'clock. You can't miss it. I also had the crank at 12 o'clock. I then turned the crank at least 6 times to make sure everything lined up. Dead spack on. Every time.
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