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Clutch slave working but clutch won't disengage.

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Old 08-07-2018, 12:06 PM
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Clutch slave working but clutch won't disengage.

I have a 1994 V6 3VZE.
My son was driving the truck the other day. While he was parking, he said he thought he hear a faint pop. He was then not able to shift.
We also noticed that the clutch switch that allows the truck to start was no longer being depressed by the pedal. So we had to start the truck with the bypass button on the dash.

We were able to get the home shifting without the clutch.
We've replaced the master and slave cylinders and bled the system. I can see the fork being pushed by the slave cylinder. Peeking in that fork boot I can see that it is moving. The fork doesn't *appear* to be broken.

We've also tried to make sure there were stray bubbles in the slave cylinder by taking it off while attached to the line and maneuvering it around, then opening up the bleed valve to let fluid come out. We then attached it and tried, but still no shifting joy. We then bled the system a few more times..same problem.

We have also adjusted (to both extremes) the rod on the master cylinder that the clutch pedal attaches to. Obviously one setting barely moves the fork, so now we have it at the other setting, operating the fork as much as the pedal will allow.

We were not having any issues with a slipping clutch or anything before. I replaced the clutch about 70,000 miles ago.

Any ideas?

Last edited by cbeaudin; 08-07-2018 at 12:34 PM.
Old 08-07-2018, 01:28 PM
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The symptoms sound like the clutch pedal bracket may have cracked due to fatigue. If the bracket has a crack, it will flex and not allow the clutch pedal to fully release the clutch.

Take a good look at the clutch pedal bracket for cracks. It may be hard to see due to the location. Check out this thread: Beware of Clutch Bracket Fatigue!

If no cracks are found, other things will need to be checked.

Old 08-07-2018, 02:04 PM
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Jake, that was a good thought. I went and looked and don't seen any cracks or much visible play in the bracket. It looks like the switch bracket might have gotten bent, so I was able to bend that back so the clutch is now engaging the switch. I can start it now with the clutch, but I still can't shift..
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:57 PM
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Red face

Well your son heard a Pop !

Is it making any noises that are new ??

Did the clutch release bearing come out of the fork ?

Does the transmission shift when the engine is shut off??

How many miles on the clutch ??

Looks like things need to come apart .
Old 08-08-2018, 03:46 AM
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Doesn't seem to be making any new sounds. Yes it shifts fine when the engine is off. If I remove the boot and look through the hole where the fork goes, I can still see the retaining spring for the bearing. I think I can feel the bearing still on there.
70K on the clutch.
Old 08-10-2018, 10:42 AM
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Jake, upon further inspection I found a crack in the clutch pedal bracket. Great tip! Thanks.
Old 08-10-2018, 02:34 PM
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It can be a royal pain to get down there and really look easy to miss
Old 08-10-2018, 04:18 PM
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Take some pictures. As you can probably see, this actually comes up pretty often. Your picture will help someone else to know exactly what to look for. (YOU missed it the first time.)
Old 08-11-2018, 08:47 AM
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Here are pictures of the broken bracket.







Last edited by cbeaudin; 08-11-2018 at 07:40 PM.
Old 08-12-2018, 10:43 AM
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Yep, those cracks are easy to miss when the bracket is installed, but are easy to see once the bracket is removed from the vehicle.

Thanks for posting up pictures!

It is time to either find another bracket or weld this one up with reinforcements.

Old 08-12-2018, 12:21 PM
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I think I am going to go with weld+reinforcements.
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Old 11-12-2022, 09:12 PM
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OK.... I have searched I have browsed I have looked high and low still can't figure this out. I have a 90 4runner that's been parked for a fair bit but run on occasion. I am trying to resurrect the beast but have been beating my head against a wall for days. The rundown: I parked it as it didn't suit my needs at the time. Started it and moved it through the last few years always at least running it around the block. one of the last times I moved it developed a coolant leak (turned out to be the hose running from block to heater core I think). But also the last few times I moved it I had more and more trouble getting it to shift. The very last time I moved it I could barely get disengage to shift. This time got in and couldn't get it to shift except grind reverse. It shifts fine for all but 5th and reverse when the engine is off and the pedal is not depressed. I figured ok I horse beat clutches a bit so ordered a new clutch Aisin. Figured well screw it I'm in there we will do clutch master and slave, rear main seal, throwout bearing, idle bearing?, and the flywheel. Got it all back together still won't disengage. Put the old clutch slave and master in as there were differences between old and new, also tried swapping the shoe that pins to the clutch pedal between old and new. (also tried new and old combos) It still won't disengage. Adjusted the master in both directions within comfort making sure it had threads still both old and new, and still won't disengage. Checked for cracks in the mount for the pedals, but none. I'm at a total loss. Did I miss a spacer behind the flywheel or something... The clutch fork I am pretty sure is ok. it seemed fine though I admit I didn't inspect it super well. I did try to pull it off too while I was in there and gave up trying to get it out. I really dont want to have to go to a shop, But I have no idea what else to do. Tonight I pinned down the clutch pedal hoping if there is by chance any air in the system it will burp out. Please help!!!!
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