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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Clutch won't disengage

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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 08:02 PM
  #1  
Chip N Sawbones's Avatar
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Clutch won't disengage

Hi,
I have a 1989 2wd extended cab pickup with the 22re engine. About two days ago, it started getting difficult to shift. I had to use some force to get it in gear when the engine was running. Today the problem got much worse. I couldn't get into first at all unless I turned off the engine, put it in gear and then turned the engine on. When I did that the starter would move the truck forward and I could sort of get it going from there. I had to double clutch to get into the other gears. I got the truck home, but it took some grinding. I guess that the clutch wasn't disengaging.

I tried bleeding the clutch and filling the fluid reservoir but that didn't help at all. The pedal feels normal. I've driven a car with a bad clutch fluid leak and that felt very different from the problem I've got now. The transmission is leaking gear oil at the seal between the transmission and the rear drive shaft. I don't know how much has leaked out because I couldn't get the filler bolt off yet. I'll try heating it with a torch tomorrow.

I did a search and learned that I should check to see if the clutch pedal bracket is cracked. Besides that and refilling the transmission with gear oil, what else should I check? Try and keep it somewhat simple; I'm not a professional mechanic.
Thank you.

Last edited by Chip N Sawbones; Nov 18, 2012 at 08:08 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Have someone watch the slave cylinder on the transmission while you push the pedal. You may have a worn out master or slave cylinder.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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most deffinitly could be the slave cylinder
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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From: Fernley NV
My 93 just did the same thing, could change gears well the motor was running I changed the clutch and she shifts like a dream
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 09:28 PM
  #5  
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Its gonna be the clutch, or clutch hydrolic parts (slave and master cylinder)
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Was the clutch master cylinder empty ??

That you sucked in air??

If it was not empty I am afraid you have your work cut out installing a new clutch while your doing it may as well do a new master and slave cylinder and the rubber hose.

Then you should be good for a couple hundred thousand miles.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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From: Fernley NV
I didn't replace any of it well I was under really only cuz I was on a budget but its 100 times better then not being able to shift.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 12:22 AM
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The reservoir was never empty. I bought the truck about a month ago, and the previous owner said he replaced the clutch just a few thousand miles ago. I have no idea if he did a good job or not.

Is there a way to tell if the problem is either the master or the slave cylinder? If not, which do I try replacing first?

Last edited by Chip N Sawbones; Nov 19, 2012 at 12:25 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 01:02 AM
  #9  
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From: Fernley NV
Well i would say if your going to replace them I would start with the slave first cuz its the cheaper of the two, but that's me
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 01:05 AM
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From: Fernley NV
And from what I know the best way to see if they need replacing is to see if the slave has about an inch of throw, correct me if I'm wrong though.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 01:54 AM
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scope103's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Chip N Sawbones
I did a search and learned that I should check to see if the clutch pedal bracket is cracked.
This thread? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #12  
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From: Below sea level
I think I found the problem. The clutch pedal bracket was cracked. A previous owner had tried to secure the cracked half of the bracket by pinning it to the plastic heating ducts with wood screws. Either the screws popped out or the crack got worse on me. I'll take the bracket to a welding shop tomorrow.

If anyone else has this problem, a deep 12mm socket is almost essential for removing the bracket. After removing all the nuts and bolts on the inside, including the bolt hidden behind the steering column, remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the firewall and pull the brake master cylinder away from the firewall. From there it is difficult but possible to remove the pedal bracket without removing the brake and clutch pedals.

Edit: Followup. Putting the bracket back in place is for some reason impossible unless you take the clutch and brake pedals off. When you do, it is essential to get the bracket where it needs to be, but don't bolt it down until the clutch pedal is back on. It is impossible to put the clutch pedal bolt in place when the bracket is secure! I ended up using a wood lag bolt and some plywood as a temporary measure until I can find someplace warm to work on the truck.

Last edited by Chip N Sawbones; Nov 20, 2012 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Pictures are always helpful.
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Old Nov 20, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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From: Vancouver Island
bloody brackets, tends to be an issue - so far mine has held up. I like your name, reminds me of when I used to run a Chip N Saw years ago at a mill here.
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Old Nov 20, 2012 | 07:25 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyCanuck
bloody brackets, tends to be an issue - so far mine has held up. I like your name, reminds me of when I used to run a Chip N Saw years ago at a mill here.
Thanks, I'm a carpenter turned medical student, which explains the name. I fixed the clutch bracket and the truck runs well now. Thanks to everyone who contributed. I'm sure I'll be calling on you all again the next time my truck breaks down.
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