... I've never replaced a clutch. I understand how they work and the essentials but I've never torn into one and replaced one.

My clutch doesn't slip under normal driving (pavement).. Soon as I hit the dirt and put any kind of hard work on the drivetrain it heats up and begins slipping. ie.. full traction on all 4 tires, rocks/stumps, hill whatever, 4wd Low... clutch out, engine revs... clutch slipping, wonderful feeling!!

Anyways, not whats wrong. I KNOW my clutch sucks. heh but its just not bad enough yet to make me get off my butt tomorrow and order a new one

thats the background info now the problem

I have to literally push the clutch to floor to DISENGAGE it. How can a worn clutch lead to not disengaging? The pedal to the floor I release maybe a whisker and it wants to engage...

I have a new master clutch cylinder, original slave and i bleed the lines twice today and it didnt improve at all. No leakage from the slave which was my first thought as the problem. Maybe it finally went out and just wasnt pushing on the clutch fork... Regardless im gonna replace the slave anyways but it DOES seem to be working fine.

Hope someone can shed some light!

BTW, a new clutch IS in the works. ALSO I was looking into lightweight flywheels.... comments?

 

=)

 

i have a 2wd 86 truck and my clutch is shot also....and yes its normal that you have to push it right to the floor cause i have to also in my truck...considering these clutches are hydrolic there is no cable to adjust.....you can adjust the peddal and make it go closer to the floor but thats it...replace the cluck and pressure plate and these problems will go away! my clutch is so bad that i can make it break loose in first gear and i can go from park into 3rd and keep the engine running....i dont recomend doing this though! with a hydrolic clutch your kinda stuck with no adjustments accept the peddal but thats almost pointless to do!

 

is having to really ramm it ints 2nd the cluch and howling at hi speeds wile tranny is ingaged

 

to my understanding for offroading you want a heavier flywheel, not a lighter one, they help give you more torque.. as far as i know, someone please correct me if im wrong

 

huh??

 

maybe it just needs adjustment. if it is disengaging after too far a peddle push, then take the pin out that attaches the peddle to the "U" shaped piece, and screw the U shaped piece counter-clockwise further up the shaft. This will make it disengage sooner with less of a peddle push. one full turn goes a long way, so take it slow. If this problem just started, it may be because the bracket that the peddle pivots on has developed the infamous crack, in which case it is bending and absorbing some of the push. If thats the case, it needs to be removed, welded, and replaced back.

 

like if there is a loud howling noise at hi speeds wile ingeged then u pop it outa gear and ur still rolling at the same speed but it dosent make the howling is that the clutch

 

Might not be the clutch, but your pressure plate. if the fingers are sticking out too far you'll have to put your foot to the floor to get her into gear.

When I purchased my truck I had the same symptoms, I figured I had to replace the clutch -- When I did, the clutch had almost the same thickness as my new clutch disk, but the pressure plate fingers where sticking out big time.

I changed the clutch and pressure plate, and everything is back to normal...

Just an FYI.

 

Thanks for the input folks. I'll take a look at the clutch pedal under the dash today and see if theres any cracks or if i can adjust it further.

I'm gonna go ahead and do an OE clutch replacement in the coming months just because it slips to much soon as any real work is put on it. Like I said it shouldnt be slipping in 4wheel low when im trying to climb a rock or a hill face.

I'll update you all on what i find once the stuff is torn down.

 

I got clutches on my website.

 

correct as far as i know

torque is a bigger concern than horsepower with a 4x4 truck...especially if you have a 22re, because you need all you can get

 

unless you've adjusted your clutch pedal freeplay then it is unlikely that it is out of adjustment. It should be adjusted so that you have just a small amount of play to insure that the master cylinder is returning to it's "rest" position.

If you need to adjust it there is no need to remove the clevis pin. Use a 12mm wrench and break the nut loose then make the adjustment by twisting the pushrod in or out til it is right then lock down the nut.

The cracked firewall thing is a big problem on T-100s and I've never seen it on a truck like yours before, but it would be good to inspect it.

The most common problem to cause a low clutch pedal is hydraulic issues. Bad Master cylinders or improperly bled systems will do this. Another possibility is a warped clutch disc. In this instance the clutch pedal will fel normal but the clutch will not fully disengae because the disc is still dragging when released.

 

no cracks or anything. Didnt bother to adjust the pedal today or re-bleed or install the new slave i got. Instead I was busy redoing balljoints on a Dana60 :/

Fords are crap, fyi.

I'll get back under the dash tomorrow morning and mess with that adjusting nut.

It's got a NEW clutch master cylinder in it. well 2yrs new. The sympton of the disengaging close to the floor is rather new but not all of a sudden. It's been coming on over time and my brother pointed it out to me how far down the pedal has to go to disengage the clutch then i realized wow, yea that is odd.

Our 2wd yoter the pedal disengages with only slight pressure and about the last 3" of play to the floor the clutch is disengaged.

night and day between the 4x4 and 2wd =)

wabbit, ill take a peak at your clutches =)