so i put a egnblder head and cam, and timing chain kit on my 86 4runner put it all back together and it starts up immediately and dies. my fuel filter is bran spankin new and my fuel pump is fairly new. i know i have fuel to the rail because the cold start injector is spraying and doing its job. so what im thinking is its the open circut fuel relay

my question is i am getting alot of mixed information(mostly from ty alldata) on were the location of it is. i also heard you can jump terminals B+ to FP to over ride it but i cant find were those terminals are as well.ive searched every were and cant find what im looking for.

can some one help pweeeez?

 

Circuit open relay is pass side, basically behind the speaker. It mounts up inside the hinge pillar (also called the "A" pillar") about 1/2 way between the roof and the floor.

 

You cant see it unless you unplug it and i know mine was 70 bucks i just bought one yesterday

 

thanks death couger! does any one know were the B+ and fp connectors are?

 

86 4Runners don't have an OBDI diagnostic port, so they won't have B+ and fp ports.

 

They do have the fuel pump test jumper plug:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

CO relay info:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

 

ok so i found the relay. before i go and mess with it does it make sense that it would cause the fuel to get to the rail but not the injectors?

 

I figured there was a way to test the fuel pump, but I knew it wasn't with a diagnostic box like the 87+ have. Good info Roger!

 

Usually this is caused by something simple like a bad fuse, or a wire not hooked up.

 

ok so i got to work on it today and got a few possible leads. after messing around for a while i started it and kept running tried to drive it and it died, tried starting it again and it did what it did before running then dying 2 seconds later. this is leading me to think it might be the computer but i dunno why it would suddenly go bad after doing some work to the engine. but stuff happens lol.

i pulled an injector wire and used a test light on it and it has power to both pins in the connector. im no electrical expert but shouldnt there only be power to one pin and the other be a ground? could this be my problem?

there is also this wire that i cant remember taking off before tore everything apart i didn't even label it which makes me think that it supposed to be unconnected but heres a pic to see if you know what it is just in case.(wire sticking up with black connector)
.

there is also a relay inside the driver side kickpanel fuse box thats labeded above it- EFI R. CHECK BULB R. i noticed gets a little warm but it still Clicks when you turn on the ignition.could this be the culprit for fuel not getting past the injectors? heres a pic (round silver one)


bear with me people of yotatech lol.

 

there is a ground wire that runs from the wire harness to the plenum make sure that is hooked up. I forgot to hook mine up and it took me two weeks to figure it out.


That wire should go to one of the little vacuum valves on top of the valve cover. the front one if i remember correctly

 

yep that ground is hooked up. ive been over the harness 100 times lol.
as for the vaccum valve your talking about i dont have one so i dunno about it.
thanks for the input man

 

You said that you have power to the injectors but what about ground? The ECU send ground pulses to the injectors to make them fire.

 

You can check that with a noid light. (ground that is) you said you checked the harness but what about the splices inside the harness. The splices inside the harness can break and not give you ground. Power comes to the injectors by the resistor on the pass. side fender. and the ECU sends ground pulses to the injectors.

 

thanks for the info. i guess i will be finding myself a noid light in my near future.
but a break in a wire would probably only cause one injector to malfunction wouldn't it?

 

no they fire in batches, 1&3, 2&4 so depends on where the break is depends on what is going on. I would cut the tape off and inspect the splices in the harness before looking for a noid light, they can be hard to find sometimes. would take about 30 mins to do so.

 

Actually all 4 injectors fire at the same time, but there are wiring splices that can go bad causing one or more injectors not to fire.
- http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1

 

Ive been through everything i can think of. does any one else have any more suggestions before i tear into the harness?