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Choke flap won't close, truck dies. Rebuilt the carb, I don't know which way to install the electric choke (wire end of the secondary spring in the electric choke is bent into a square, then there's a primary spring which controls it. I assume I hook it up to where it pulls the choke open, am I wrong?)
After taking off the electric choke, the choke flap falls open. I believe it is supposed to spring closed, if so how do I fix it?
The truck won't idle. It ran for a bit (a few days) before making a very audible click and dying. I can't get it to run below about 1400 RPM, and it'll die if I push the gas too fast when taking off, I have to push the pedal lightly to rev it up before going. Any advice?
Sorry if I sound odd, post was written in haste.
Last edited by Johnsoline; 02-06-2017 at 11:04 PM.
But I am unsettled, I took out the distributor and moved out back a tooth and it runs fine again. But before it clicked and stopped working it was timed correctly. So...
Either my timing chain is jumping, or somehow my distributor gear is jumping, that's all I got... :/
But I am unsettled, I took out the distributor and moved out back a tooth and it runs fine again. But before it clicked and stopped working it was timed correctly. So...
Either my timing chain is jumping, or somehow my distributor gear is jumping, that's all I got... :/
Pull your valve cover and inspect the valve timing, and distributor gear.. crank key way at twelve, and timing mark lines up at zero, cam dowel at twelve. While you're there look at the tensioner head and make sure it's still attached to the shaft at least, there is a wear limit which you won't be able to eyeball but having it detach will be an obvious sign it's time to change out the front side parts.
What is the "tensioner head?" And what does "way at twelve" mean?
the head on the chain tensioner.. the pyramid shaped object measured in this diagram.
Keyway or key way..
Below is what you do not want to see, a spun balancer. But the little red arrow is pointing at the keyway, there is a matching one on the crankshaft with a woodruff key installed.
Originally Posted by ToyoToler
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I also discovered an interesting anomaly recently. I was cleaning up some parts to paint, and I realized that on my crankshaft pulley, or harmonic balancer, the little timing divot didn't line up with the cutout for the key on the end of the crankshaft.
I was pretty boggled about that. I did some research and found that some other people on here had the same problem, but no one had an explanation for it. So I did some homework and came up with this. The purpose of an harmonic balancer is to absorb crankshaft vibrations. Harmonic balancers are typically constructed in three pieces. The first piece is often called a hub. It bolts to directly to the crankshaft. The hub is surrounded by rubber or fluid which dampens crankshaft vibrations. The outside layer is metal which has grooves on it for the belt. Over time the rubber and/or fluid layer deteriorate causing the outer pulley to shift, either forward or backwards, or side to side, like in my case. You really should get a new balancer, because even if you make a new divot in the right spot, the pulley will most likely continue to shift.
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Below, camshaft dowel at 12.. is good
Originally Posted by BajaRunner
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Above is good, below is bad.
Originally Posted by Grego92
.. Clipped I finally start to eye balling my TDC and this is what I come across. I've read about "jumping" a tooth and all that, but I just can't see how that could happen? I would read those posts and just think they didn't have it set correctly to begin with. Does this and can this really happen? See my photos below and tell me what you think. My crank pulley mark is on the "0" mark, my cam gear mark is after 12 o'clock and my rotor seems too close to 12 rather than 11 o'clock.
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If I am actually a "tooth" off now, how the heck can I put it back without tearing down?
And here is the keyway showing on the pulley, ignore the scribe marks if you have them you are looking at the slot, you'll have to use a much brighter light to verify the Key is in position and it's not 100% accurate this way but it will give an idea if your off.
you have to pull the crankshaft bolt to get this view.
Oh I did manage to figure out how to move it over one tooth. You have to put tension on the left side of the chain to keep it taught. If you drop it it's a pain in the ass. Carefully pull the sprocket off of the camshaft, and move it down to relieve tension, all while keeping tension on the left side of the chain. Then just line it up and put it back on.
Put a ziptie or something akin through this circled area. Also on the other side, hook the chain further down to keep it taught as well. Then you'll be able to pull off the sprocket and give some slack. It may require some leverage to get it back on but it can be put on without damaging the motor.
02-06-2017, 01:07 AM
