UPDATE/EDIT 8/21/10:

Replacing the TPS with a new one solved most of my issues. My old one was giving me funky readings on the dynamic test, (measuring the linear fashion of resistance over the throttle valve sweep).

Old one (#'s are just for reference, I hadn't seen this posted anywhere), when I tested the VTA-E2 resistance going from closed throttle to WOT: 0, 100, 5, 100, 10, 100, 15, 100... etc.
New one: 0, 5, 10, 15, etc...

Thanks everyone for the help!




First off, sorry for all the frigging posts.

Yes, I've tried searching, and if you've got some good threads to point me to, I'd be stoked to read more!

The first 22re I had seemed like it had a lot more power. This truck seems to lack it, and I feel something is definitely wrong.

What I need to do still, (making sure this is a good game plan):

1) Compression test
2) Check valve clearance.
3) While I'm at it, I'll check timing chain. How do I "inspect". What should I be looking for?
4) Check timing. Timing light broke, so I am gonna buy a new one tomorrow
5) Check fuel filter
-Where the hell is it?!

When I am on the highway, and I am trying to accelerate, (high load), I hear a slight chatter. I think its the timing chain, but I can't be certain...I've never had a "loose" chain...does this mean I need to replace the timing chain? Can it be causing my truck to bog?

Also, in neutral and when I rev the engine to 3000 RPM, the engine will studder/miss once in a while... advice?

What other problem areas are there I should look into.

Thanks for the help, once again.

 

Definitely do the first 2 steps.

When adjusting the valves, take a flash light and look down to see if the chain guides are worn/broken and if they are, inspect if the chain has worn grooves into your timing cover.

Fuel filter is under the intake plenum. It can be seen by looking through the passenger side wheel well on the bottom left of the block.

 

Hey thanks Pismo Joe!

Darn. I just had the intake plenum off yesterday heh. Oh well... now I know I could probably get to in nice and quick

I read something about the timing chain skipping a tooth? What does that mean?! And could the timing chain being loose cause a decrease in power!?

The head was re-done 3500 miles ago. I'm assuming the valves need to be re-adjusted. I hope that solves some of the issues. This thing is just ridiculously gutless and seems like something is holding it back...

 

Well it literally means that the chain somehow jumped a tooth, which would definitely cause a power decrease and or bent valves.

If the head was done 3500 miles ago the timing should be fine unless they were cheap and didn't touch the timing components.

Have you ever cleaned or inspected the throttle body? Checked plugs, points, rotor, all that tune up stuff...

 

I didnt see anything about checking spark plugs, cap and rotor, or air filter, so not sure if these have been checked...These things can all cause lack of power if faulty or worn. Could definately be timing or valve problems as well.

 

Ugh I should have mentioned what I've done:

- Removed Plenum, TB, IACV and cleaned the utter crap out of them. There was nothing left when I was done. (I used 2 big buckets of carb cleaner and had them soak in there)...
- Ran a can of seafoam just for good measure
- Replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires (Didn't double check the NGK plugs though for gap..hmm)
- Cleaned entire EGR system (yeah I know it doesn't have anything to do w/ performance)
- Tested TPS

The truck currently has an aftermarket straight pipe intake, Downey headers with straight pipe to high flow cat and Flowmaster 40 muffler. The pipe from the headers to cat is 2.5" and tail pipe is 2.25"... (seems big for a 4 banger?)

Like I said there seems to be a stumble at high idle, and definitely a flat spot mid range RPM when accelerating. It almost seems like it runs better some days than others. I hope backpressure isn't an issue.

 

You thoroughly cleaned out the carb cleaner that you used right?? Carb cleaner can damage injectors

 

Yes I sure did...made sure everything was dry when I re-installed. The directions say to spray with water ( I removed all electrical components). Then I sprayed with TB cleaner.

 

Nice

I dunno man the 22RE isn't too quick...

 

I'm also wondering if my vacuum lines are correct. I went through as best I could and everything looks cherry to me.

I tried posting a question on the vacuum lines, but no answer. I need to know which side of the EGR modulator is R and which one is P.

 

I guessed you did all that, just wanted to double check...Id start with the timing thing and then go from there.

 

Here's a video of a few days ago. After listening to the sound, its good here. Today it just sounded like crap. :/

 

FSM link http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

 

Did you check your timing chain to see if the guides are still intact. You will also need to set the engine to TDC to see if the dimples match the bright link on your chain. Your lack of power seems to be the timing is off.

 

Thanks snobdds. Thats something I had no idea of....setting TDC to see if the dimples match. I've never opened a 22re before.

Thanks for the link PismoJoe. I've had that link this whole time and I still can't find where I would look for something like inspecting for the "bright colored link"!

The FSM has come in a lot of use though!

 

No problem, and is in the FSM, under the Engine Mechanical Section

 

Hey again

So I only had time to check the timing. It was off just a tad. With TE1 and E1 jumped, it was at about 8* BTDC. I put it down to 5*. Unjumped the diag box it advanced to about 12*, which is good... I think.

I decided to take a video with sound so someone could maybe hear what I am talking about.

Listen carefully when I hold the RPM's at about 2500.... every 2 seconds it hiccups, and you can feel and really hear it out of the exhaust. I'm hoping this is just a valve adjustment issue... It almost sounds like it poofs out a bunch of air from the exhaust. The PO put a 2.5" pipe from the headers to the cat. Hope its enough to create satisfactory backpressure.

 

12* of advance after setting base timing is perfect, 10*-14* is the spec.

I can't really tell of the hiccup in this video, but it seems to be running better than your first video

 

It sounds good to me. What size tires are you pushing? It looks like you might have 31's and I bet 4.10 gears. If so, that might be part of your problem.

 

Jeez! I used to push 31's with my 22re 4runner with 275,000 miles no problem!

This truck only has 144,000 miles with a brand new head! I only have 30's on it, with aluminum rims. I don't get it, it just seems like something is holding it back.

After valve adjustments, I guess the only next place to look is fuel delivery?

The guy i bought it from said it has a new fuel filter, but I guess I'll just go and change it out anyways.