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Check Engine Light after hitting 2500+ RPM

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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 11:12 PM
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Check Engine Light after hitting 2500+ RPM

I just put a fresh motor in my 86 SR5 fom a 90 22Re Truck. It starts up and sounds great but it gets a check engine light when I rev the engine. It sounds great and nothing sounds wrong to me. I have a hunch, the component that has a green/blue fuel injector like plug got snapped where the small black plastic cylinder attaches to the connector. Also this motor didn't have a connection for a knock sensor where as my old motor did. Currently the knock sensor is not connected. My search wasn't helpful because I don't know what that green plug is called.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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Donny, you're out of your element
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did you use the engine harness from the 90 engine, or from the 86?

You have to use your 86 engine harness, as well as the intake, and you will have to put the knock sensor onto the engine you are putting in. I'd say the check engine is definetly from the missing knock sensor.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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The harness is the 86 harness. i think it is the knock sensor also, because the truck runs perfectly and that is the only thing that I can recall that wasn't like the stock motor. Will it be alright to drive w/o this temporarily b/c I just got a flat in my 240z?

Last edited by elmo908; Apr 23, 2006 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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Hey Hey, swapped knock sensor, no codes. Thanks for all the help.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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Donny, you're out of your element
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np, glad you got it fixed!
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 11:35 PM
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you can always pull the codes manually by shorting the diganosis box with a paper clip circuit e1 to te1 then turn your key on and count the flashes the first flashes are ten's and then there will be a pause then the next flashes are the ones so if the check engine flashes 5 times first then pauses then flashes 2 times the code is 52 wich is actually the real code for the knock sensor on yota 3.0L
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by chip
you can always pull the codes manually by shorting the diganosis box with a paper clip





You may be right, but I just don't think I'll ever do that . . .
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 4mydogs





You may be right, but I just don't think I'll ever do that . . .
Why wouldn't you ever do that? The FSM specifically tells you to do that when pulling codes out of the computer. Its not really "shorting" it out parsay, you are just completing the circuit from E1 to TE1 which will then start the self-diagnosis coding.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
Why wouldn't you ever do that? The FSM specifically tells you to do that when pulling codes out of the computer. Its not really "shorting" it out parsay, you are just completing the circuit from E1 to TE1 which will then start the self-diagnosis coding.
Yup, I do it all the time too. Pretty cool thing Toyota did. I get a TPS code past about 3000 RPMs with it jumped. Works pretty awesome!
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 11:04 AM
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Late to the party but have this same issue.

I have a 1986 sr5 pickup that does this exact thing. The engine code says knock sensor fault as well. So I went to see about getting it. But there is no listing for a knock sensor for my model. How do I fix this with that in mind?
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Usarar1
I have a 1986 sr5 pickup that does this exact thing. The engine code says knock sensor fault as well. So I went to see about getting it. But there is no listing for a knock sensor for my model. How do I fix this with that in mind?
is it a 22re? knock sensor should be located to the left of the oil filter, is it plugged in to the harness?

double-check this part number, if you have to buy one:

https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/1327236...ml#interchange

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