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Well that stinks, I suppose that even reputable shops are at the mercy of whoever is on staff to be the transmission builder that day. Someone did not know what they were doing. I wonder if they even opened it up on the return, I guess you'll never know.
to be honest, if they had done a bad rebuild, but opened it up and then fixed it, I would have been perfectly happy. But after sending it back in and getting it back with “no issues” I’m pretty pissed about the whole situation. Seems I’m not alone either, multiple people have posted threads with the same issues of the assembly being too tight.
i pondered even bringing this up, but i hope that maybe it will save someone some heartache in the future. if you followed this build you know i splurged on a bullet proof marlin transmission. i had problems from the start. it wouldnt shift. i had to pull it and send it back to marlin, a GIANT pain. they told me they went through it and it was perfectly fine, they could find no issues and it was already on its way back to me. not what i wanted to hear exactly.. anyways after reinstalling i had the same problems. another call to marlin and the response was something like, maybe its a user error.. well pulling it a 3rd time wasnt in my cards. i hit the threads and many people suggested many different fixes, different oils and such, bleeding clutch, blah blah. i tried everything. damn thing never like 2nd gear. sometimes others. the one year warranty went way to quick, i had other irons in the fire and even though i should have pulled it myself AGAin i didnt, primarily because marlin assured me it was a good transmission. fast forward to this week a nd i have it out because im doing dual cases and i really wanted the damn thing to shift smooth, also it started leaking gear oil out of the front of the transmission. keep in mind, this transmission has MAYBE 5000 miles on it. in fact, alot of guys told me the issue would go away after it broke in more. i couldnt afford to spend another 2 grand on marlin to look at it, not that i would at this point, so i took it to a local guy. after he got it torn down i went to see the results. turns out marlins rebuilders were just jamming everything together with no spacing between the gears and the synchros. thats why it couldnt shift, and thats why i could only get into certain gears at a dead stop. so now im in for a full rebuild, again, and this time i have to replace several main gears.
all of this to say, i just dont recommend them for rebuilds anymore. their time has come and gone, and i fear with the passing of marlin the company has gone to ˟˟˟˟. i would still use them as a parts vendor in a heartbeat, but to be honest even that is dwindling because i noticed today they dont even have flywheels and clutches anymore, what a shame. save yourself heartache and lots of money, find a local shop and rebuild, or DIY if you can.
I feel your pain. I had Yotamasters rebuild a core transmission they had in their shop for me, and I specifically requested that they replace any of the detent springs that hold the shifter in gear. They told me they don't actually rebuild the transmissions themselves (great...), but they would pass the information along. Fast forward a few months later and my transmission kicks out of first every once in awhile, just like my old transmission did. Called them up and they said to bring it in and they will look at it, but the problem is its still doing it so infrequently I'm sure it will just be a waste of my time. I also suspect they're only offering to look at it because they want me to bring them back my old transmission so they can use the core.
lots of work done over the past month and i havnt posted anything. i built a set of dual cases. i had a local shop rebuild my marlin transmission, had driveshafts modified, and installed everything with a budbuilt crossmember. i used a stock front case, mc08 adaptor, and a 4.7 rear case. no twin sticks. driveshafts were 5.5 inches shorter/longer. cut my shifter hole big enough to get the shifter plate in and out of, then made a cover plate and put some m6 rivnuts in the floor and bolt it on with oem fasteners, used bulb style weather seal underneath it. everything works great but ill need to shim the rear end up a few degrees because my driveshaft angles are around 13 degrees and i have a little vibration at speeds. only issue i hit was one of my cases had a 79/80 output shaft and i didnt know there was a difference. he met mr grinder and we fixed his attitude. loaded up 79-80 shaft with longer splines splines gone.. shifters going in done installed
this weekends project was pretty sucky. i recently discovered i had a rain leak. i found that my windshield was leaking, and decided to ditch the trim and go back to a rubber insert and glue to try and save myself some rust issues. that fixed one leak but i had another. the dreaded firewall/cowl leak finally got me. man what a pain. if you are seeing water in the floorboards or on the firewall chances are its the seam sealant in the cowl. its old, its brittle, its gone. i pulled the fenders, and cut access holes in both sides big enough to fit my arm inside. resealed all along the edge and the outside seams under the fenders. i used a quality body seam sealer from a local auto paint shop. i welded the access hole back up and have her back together, mostly, at this point. i did not pull my dash, although i suspect there is rust under there at this point. after i welded the access covers back i seam sealed and painted over the welds. its not color matched but its under the fenders and i really dont care. i made sure to try and get seam sealer over all of the cowl areas and anywhere i was cracking oem sealer.
iSorry I'm a bit of a dullard, but I can't find why you had to grind off part of the input splines?
im not super set on the center console yet, that was just an old crusty spare i had in the shop. i kept my clean original one. i may pick up one of those 3d printed cup holder inserts for the console base in it now. the splines are different on the 79/80 models than the 81-newer models. the 79/80 have a little extra spline, that wont seat into a newer transmission (w56) so they have to be ground smooth to mate.
some of you probably noticed the truck took a drastic turn lol. i ultimately decided its way more fun to wheel these trucks than to just look at them in a garage, but to each their own right. anyways, i ended up swapping the rear springs recently because the Sky 57' springs were not designed to hold up to the extra 4runner weight. they designed a newer springs that has an extra leaf and holds more weight overall, and also sits slightly taller. i swapped to them and am happy with the results. the old sky springs were only a few years old and already super bent up. the hydro assist system is working great but i will be adding a cooler, already ordered one. i have been checking the knuckle studs torque once a week. i will be doing the add on stud kit from 4x, to get 6 studs. probably use TG arms. right now the weak point is definitely the knuckles. my old 22re is also not cutting it these days. have started poking around for a good 3rz, thats where i landed for an easy swap and easy HP gain. anyways heres how the truck sits today. yesterdays project was to mod the oem battery bracket to hold my odyssey battery good and snug.
been a while, but i really havnt done anything except use the truck the way it was. i took on several other projects and had to do some big jobs on my wifes 100 series and my 40 series. i did a trip in the runner a few weeks ago and decided it was the last big run for the 22re. its time for the 3rz. lets freakin go.
last ride on the 22re pulled her into the shop for start gutting work flow gutted so long 22re, sold on marketplace for 1k cash w59 bellhousing installed
my setup will hopefully be simple and straight forward. i have a 3rz from a 96 t100 (i think) with the oem engine harness and an ors adaptor harness. the 3rz just came home from the engine shop with a fresh rebuild. i am being nickel and dimed on the little stuff like random hardware, seals, gaskets, sensors, hoses, belts, etc etc. so far, i have it mostly back together but i am waiting on new flywheel bolts and a flywheel from marlin. old marlin and pirate threads seem to indicate keeping similar components together, so i am using the w59 bell with the 3rz flywheel, clutch, shift fork, bearings, and slave. ors for the clutch and fuel lines. remaned fuel injectors are in with new pigtails on the harness. i also burned in the 10k resistor on the back on the tach this week. i plan to add an A pillar gauge pod setup to monitor water temps, oil pressure, and vacuum.
new injector plugs headers painted getting close to back together some heat shielding on the firewall save some money by using new bearings instead of entire pulleys tachometer ready (hopefully) fuel rail and injectors in
Looking good!! I wish I could have one last ride in my 22re one day…..I love my truck and I love the re but man it’s getting painful in the mountains, it’s just not fun until I get to my destination
Looking good!! I wish I could have one last ride in my 22re one day…..I love my truck and I love the re but man it’s getting painful in the mountains, it’s just not fun until I get to my destination
this is exactly why i got rid of it. it was to the point that i wouldnt go meet guys to ride because i didnt want to drive it. having to drop to 2nd gear to get up hills in the mountains was just miserable. i think with the fresh 3rz, balance shaft delete, headers and a good intake i will be pushing maybe 160hp? will be night and day difference.
Ya it will be way better, I think it was less painful in 91 when the speed limit was 55 and everyone wasn’t doing 80 up the mountain, it’s to the point where I follow semi’s and just have a defeated look on my face….
I ordered a new rad, three row aluminum from LCE. I will retain the 22re shroud. I got a new aisin fan clutch and fan blade, the flan clutch mount must be drilled out a bit to fit the 3rz water pump studs. EGR delete is on, EGR is properly in the scrap pile, I think I can use some fuel line and just loop the old coolant line in/out of the iacv ? My PSC bracket doesn’t fit the 3rz so I have a custom one on the way. Hurry up and wait.
im going to skip over the dull info for actually stabbing the motor, but its was fairly easy. the 3rz sits a little tilted to that makes for a little trickiness lining up the motor mounts. motor is in and happy. the iacv was stuck and i had to pull it to get it to idle correctly. i used the psc steering pump with chilkat mount, and had my buddy at 4lofab make me a reservoir mount that goes in the factory location. oil pump leaked, so i had to pull the timing cover, impact the phillips head screws out and replace with a new oem pump, seal, and some allen head screws form lce. used oem rad hoses, cut lower to fit. the intake was fun to figure out. i sourced the factory air muffler pipe thing from ebay, which mounts to the side of the head for stability. then got a cheap MAF to cone filter adaptor and slapped it all together. the air is pretty warm at the filter because of the headers, i need to fab a little heat shield somehow. for exhaust, i had my local shop make a crossover pipe behind the bellhousing that is removable. both 02 sensors are in, i used one of those little mini catalizer things on the rear 02 to trick the engine into not throwing codes, works great and cost 25 bucks. it just screws into the bung and the sensor screws in on top of it. anyhow, heres the engine bay. also slapped a useless oem trd oil cap because why not.
this swap was so worth it. the truck is so fun to drive now, plenty of power and keeps up with traffic easily, merges onto the highway good, hits 80mph with ease, and has obd2 which is awesome. if anyone is debating this swap, just do it. i honestly will never understand sinking money into trying to get power out of a tired 22re when you could just do this swap for probably the same money.
Oct 19, 2023 | 06:35 AM
one day…..I love my truck and I love the re but man it’s getting painful in the mountains, it’s just not fun until I get to my destination
