well i tore into it, thought i had it all screwed up, couldent even find the bright link 0_o but you have to rotate the crank a few times, b4 it lines up again , so i got the head off and sure enough the valve is open....doesent look bent, doesent look like it came into contact with the head at all.... i taped it with a rubber maillot and SNAP right back in....possibly some rust build up caused it to stick?? its been sitting without a valve cover for like 2 weeks so i dunno, got it all back together mostly except the accessories turned over a few times and VROOM... so ill get all the stuff on tmr and figure out whats up and ill load all the pics too...thanks for all the help guys, couldent do this kinda stuff without the forum

 

Glad to hear you got her going!!!

 

To install a stubborn cam sproket: I rock the crank pulley bolt slightly back and forth until the chain tensioner depresses then the sproket pops right on works every time.

one tooth off should not bend valves unless like abe said its one tooth retarded with a FUBAR chain



I hope its a sticky valve guide? IDK I'd inspect further

best to tear it apart and inspect, I alway lap my valve seats, inspect the seats, inspect and clean the valves & guides, and install new valve seals when i have the head off.

It is possible to bend a valve when torquing down the head bolts if there is some rocker arm bindage going on

 

"It is possible to bend a valve when torquing down the head bolts if there is some rocker arm bindage going on"
hermmmmmmmmmmm....thats a HUGE possiblity, i wasent looking the first time i put the rockers on and the back half wasent seated on the little guides that are on the left side...ughh ohh well..... didint sound like it was knocking, i poured a quart over the entire cam assembly and down the timing cover so maybe it was just stuck....fingers crossed, lol if not ill go junkyardin and get an entire EFI setup

 

compression test will reveal valve seat intregrity, a bent valve is an easy fix.

 

sooooo how easy??? cuz its def bent, it contacts the piston while its running, so yeahhh how hard would it be to replace just one valve?? and heres some pics of been promising...
this is when i thought i had somethin all wrong


no bright link whaaaa??lol


paten pending technique hah


valve stuck open,


valve shut after taping with a rubber mallot ...notice no writing on the valve?


the rest of the three look just like this, think the one wasent replaced when rebuilt??


bright link back...YAY


stuck valve again, after rotating the assembly


and thats that....i got it all back together and started her up and cunk clunk clunk, the rest of the motor sounds good tho on a side note i got my treadwrites today for mah dodge heheheh



sorry for the long post

 

anybody??

 

valve stuck open- yeah you can replace just one. But most likely a weak spring.
there is a special fitting to place in the spark plug hole if the head was still on the engine. place compressed air into cylinder allowing the valve not to fall.
compress spring, remove retainer, remove spring. install spring, install retainer.
remove fitting, install spark plug re time the valve to .07 cold get engine warm, retime to .08

 

but the head is already off, just use a spring compressor. remove and relpace the spring.
edit: just remove and replace the valve too, at 2 bucks you cant beat to do it now. just make sure the valve seat is in spec.

 

oh sorry forgot to reply

yea its a peice of cake

the valve is bent right need to replace it?

go to sears and get a vavle spring tool its a huge crazy looking tool dont cheap out on this tool get a good one

so pull off the head AGAIN

compress the valve spring and remove the valve keepers

release valve spring compressing tool

remove valve

liberly apply valve grind compound to NEW valve at the seat

lap valve
(rotating lapping tool back and forth in between your hands)
(valve lapper tool is a suction cup on a wood handle)

remove all valve grind compound

liberly apply assembly lube on new valve stem

compress valve spring and apply keepers

carefully hit spring with rubber mallet to ensure the keepers are seated

ON ANOTHER NOTE

valves are cheap be sure they are all good dont want to do it again I beleive they are around 7-8 ea

springs are cheap too I can get a set shipped to my door for around $30 from engnbldr

valve seals are cheap your shoudl replace all of these at this time

valve lapping is all labor and ensures a good vavle seal at the valve seat you should do this too


Good luck bro

 

hermmmm....ill think about tackling this job myself, but i got a buddy that builds motors, maybe he can do a port and polish while he replaces the valve

 

I have used the rope trick instead of air, but if its jsut a spring then thats all he has to do but those overhead valve spring compressor tools are a PITA

I would just pull the head off these days its a peice of cake in and out under 2 hours to turn key fire thats including new valves, springs, and plastigauged cam journals for an RV cam

 

thats the best way to get more R's out of her!

Dont forget to gasket match if your tearing it down and busting out the stones!

 

thanks guys!!! but when i tapped the valve slightly i snaped back in with some force so i dont think its a lazy spring...but we'll see when i get er done,

 

so another question how do the retainers come out? just come out when the spring is compressed??

 

nvm i googled it, i need a lil magnet now!!

 

the keepers?

they just come off with with a little finger play when the spring is compressed

 

yeah im guessing im gonna replace the valve myself and leave the P&P for later, i need to get her runnin again and my guy isnt giving me a price for some reason...