Hi guys,

I have a 1990 xcab 4x4 3zve with what the previous owner claims is a 5" rough country lift.

looks like blocks in the rear and diff/lca drop up front.

the front bumpstops are pancake ones on a big square dropped down from what i think is the stock location, down about 5".

this makes the LCAs have about 3/8-1/2" before it touches the bumpstops (which dont appear to be a nice soft progressive rubber, just a thin poly piece.)

if I want a little more travel up front, can I just bring the bumpstops up higher?
how much compression can the driveshafts take?
I have not taken off the shocks so I dont know how much travel they have, but can I set the bumpstops so they bottom a bit before the shocks do?


also, what are my options for removing the blocks from between the axle and leafs.

I like the stance it has now, but not a big fan of the axle hop im getting with the blocks.

 

How about a pic or 2 of your front? Sounds like you still have IFS, so front drive shaft movement should be minimal if that's the case. Are you taking about the compression bump stops that hit the LCA? Or the upper bump stops that limit droop?

On the rear lift I used a new Alcan spring pack, not much axle rotation with these.



After one of my lift kit bump stops broke off wheeling I make some beefer ones:

 

When I bought those progressive bump stops my original plan was to cut them down once I had tested them out. But after flexing the front to max compression I found they squashed down to about half their thickness anyway and are perfect like they are.

 

This is what it looks like now.


any other vehicles leafs that work that i might be able to pull from a junkyard?
this truck is just one of my side project/dailys so i dont want to start spending too much on goodies.

 

hard to tell but that looks about right. Stock isn't much more.

 

hmm oh really.
should i not try to get a little more compression by shortening the 'extension' on it?

 

I think xxxtreme is right.

Take the bumpstop out and see if you can make it go any higher.

 

I think you should be able to shorten it, unless you have the wrong size shocks on there or something. CV angles look good, you could maybe go a little more on the angle (ie crank the torsion bars just a little higher) That would also get you more bump stop clearance, but at the expense of ride softness, unless you install some BJ spacers.

 

I don't see why you can't shorten that. hillbillyoter is running no extentions on his. Not exactly what I would do but....

 

Yeah if you run without them the shocks become the bump stops. They probably won't last long as shocks, to state the obvious, most shocks don't like to be bottomed out hard (good way to destroy the internal valving).

BTW if you are wanting new shocks for that 4" lift I posted part numbers for some 5100 series Bilsteins here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...please-230469/

As far as used leaf springs. I can't really help except to say some always mention Chevy springs of some kind. Might search "chevy springs"

 

the doschetech shocks look pretty cool that yotarob got as well. Which to me includes it's own bump stop.

 

I'm glad I said "most" shocks now, I started to say all shocks but I thought I remembered seeing some shocks with a little bump stop on the piston rod. You can see it on the "Pre-runner" model here: http://www.doetsch-shocks.com/2.asp Not sure if its meant to replace bump stops or just help out for people that use the wrong size shocks.

I'll add my bump stop that broke was during a long steep descent of a rough mountain trail loaded down with gear. During steep descents more of the truck's weight is on the front suspension.

 

thanks for all the input guys,
the current shocks seem to be in good condition still so i'll keep them till they blow.
I'll try taking off the extensions and see how far it goes before the shocks bottom, then adjust to that.

there's a bumpstop on the rear of the LCA as well, which i thought was strange.
is that a stock feature?

 

yes. One on front one on rear is to equal out the force on both sides of the control arms. Just remember if you don't already know the upper stops is for droop(down travel) and the lower stops are for uptravel.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot all about those rear ones. That's another good reason not to use your shocks as bump stops.

 

good point, since the shock is mounted on the front and not the middle of the control arm. Never thought of that.