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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

blown motor?

Old 05-25-2017, 08:56 PM
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Remember to really inspect the add on parts, like the gaskets, that come with your engine kit. Lots of times folks ship super cheap gaskets with their kits. If the particular gasket is going deep into your rebuild, like where you can't easily get to, think hard about using an OEM or other high quality gasket in it's place.

Be careful with that pressure washer. It's easy to damage 30 year old parts with a strong blast of water. Other folks on here chase electrical issues for months that were caused by an elbow bump while fixing something else. A good degreaser and the sharp spray of a garden hose sprayer is more than adequate in most cases.
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:20 AM
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Charchee, thanks for the tip regarding cleaning inside the engine area using a garden hose with a sprayer instead of using a pressure washer. I am not aware of using a pressure washer that can possibly cause some unintended problems/issues. Also, I checked the old flywheel and it appears to be ok. The teeth on the flywheel seems solid. Anything else do I need to inspect prior to putting back together the short block engine and the cylinder head?
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:56 AM
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Painting the Engine area and missing rubber motor mount rings?

Painting the valve cover, Electronic Fuel injector housing, intake manifold, short block? Missing side rubber mounts doughnut holes type or rings?

While I am waiting for the rebuild short block and the cylinder head to be finish and ready to go, I am thinking about painting the engine area.

I did some research on this issue. It seems to me that using high heat (500 degrees fahrenheit or 2000 degree fahrenheit, which one?) engine paint along with the primer and clear coat would do the job. First, use engine degreaser to remove the dirt, grease, etc., and rinse the part to be painted using a garden hose and nozzle spray. Wipe off the part clean and let it thoroughly dry prior to putting on the primer (how many coats and drying time between coats?) and let that dry, too, first. How long to let the part (after using the primer) to dry prior using high heat engine paint and lastly the clear coat paint (or is it the other way around, primer, clear coat, engine paint in sequence)? Is it necessary to use primer and/or clear coat paint on the valve cover and other part areas that I want to paint?

If that is the case, how many coats of primer, high engine paint and clear coat are needed? Where else can I paint around the engine area besides the valve cover, intake manifold and the EFI housing? How about the exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold heat insulator, as well as others that can be done? Short block, too? Below is the picture showing red painted engine picture after painting. Noticed the color red on the valve cover only as an example.

Also, while waiting for the replacement parts to arrive, I noticed on the front engine area on both sides, there are motor plates or brackets that goes inside the front motor mounts.See pictures 1, 3 and 4 with color blue circle on the location areas where the rubber ring mounts should be located in those areas.) On the right side facing me, in picture 5, there is a long bar or rod prior to removing it, connecting to the plate that goes in the motor mount, I am missing some kind of a rubber dough nut hole type (ring?) of mount that goes in between the metal plate mount. I lost it while removing the bar and the other one on the left is missing. I don't know the name of the exact part and its part number. Anyone out there knows what I am talking about?

I looked for a diagram of the 22re engine and the parts name and its location and the best one I came up with does not show the so called dough nut type rubber mounts (ring?) in picture 1 that goes in between the metal plates on both sides of the front engine area. As I recalled, I believed the doughnut shaped rubber mount (ring?) is about 1 inch thick and about 2 and half or 3 inches in diameter. I am enclosing the 3 pictures below to show in the blue color circles where these two rubber mounts (ring?) goes in.
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Old 05-28-2017, 01:52 PM
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I started a new thread regarding engine paint issues. The title is Engine Paint Kit. My reasoning is a different issue other than the blown motor.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:09 AM
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No one else has mentioned yet that on a 22re, you don't want to use an oil pan gasket at all even though they're often included in complete gasket kits. They're for the older pre-'85 22r blocks. You'll want to use a bead of rtv only. I used a cork gasket coated with a thin layer of rtv and it leaked instantly. Redid it with rtv, no more leaks at all.

Not sure what the rubber donuts your asking about are. The long thin steel tube sticking out on the oil filter side is a support for the intake manifold and bolts from the engine mount, directly to the aluminum intake, no rubber at all.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:23 AM
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Possibly you're talking about engine mounts (also called "motor mounts")? Search "22re motor mounts" on eBay and see if any of the listings are the parts you're searching for. Their purpose is to both hold the engine in place and greatly reduce engine vibration to the frame.

Fyi, the rubber was destroyed on my own mounts so I bought a nice used set on eBay from a Celica. They fit perfectly and looked much newer than my old ones. I think I paid $35 for the pair, shipped.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:29 AM
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Also, having your injectors cleaned and rebuilt is going to be cheaper than buying a new set. The machine shop might have an ASNU machine to clean them, just ask. If not, there are some good places to ship them to, like witchhunter performance.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:57 AM
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gsp4life, you mentioned in your last post: "Fyi, the rubber was destroyed on my own mounts so I bought a nice used set on eBay from a Celica. They fit perfectly and looked much newer than my old ones. I think I paid $35 for the pair, shipped. " I believed you know what I am writing about this rubber ring on the motor mount. What is exactly the rubber part name and its part number? I can't find anywhere on the internet showing that part by itself only. I did the research on 22re motor mounts and only show the complete part without seeing this rubber ring that goes in between the bracket of the motor mount secured by a bolt. I believed that is what I am looking for. Do you have an image or picture of this rubber ring that I can see by itself to make sure that is the correct one?
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:59 AM
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Also, do I have to buy a complete motor mount that already has this rubber ring inside or can I get this rubber ring separately?
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:22 AM
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gsp4Life, I think I found this motor mount on ebay. Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Left-R...0/182381757539

I also included the picture of the motor mount. Notice the gap inside between the two brackets with the bolt end sticking up. Is that the rubber ring in between the brackets? If so, can I get this rubber ring by itself or do I have to purchase the whole thing itself, the motor mount?
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:34 AM
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By the way, gsp4Life, thanks very much for your previous posts, especially the oil pan gasket issue. I did not know oil pan does not need a gasket, just several beads of rtv across the top of the oil pan, several inches apart. Also, your comment about the fuel injectors getting clean up using ASNU machine from the machine shop that I use now for rebuilding the short block and the cylinder head is also something I did not know about. I will call the machine shop about this. Thanks again for your invaluable insight into the issues I am having now. Much appreciated.
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Old 05-29-2017, 11:59 AM
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Yep that photo is it, and the rubber block is bonded to the metal plate. At least until it fails and then it's not holding your engine in place anymore.

Those cheaper ones there (oem Toyota parts are $300-something for the set!) will probably do the trick, but you might have to file the holes out a little bit. People have written reviews complaining about the bolt holes being too small or in the wrong spot.

Also, the bead of rtv for the oil pan is just one continuous bead all the way around, about 5mm thick. It should run into the indented channel between each bolt hole, then on the inside of the bolt hole itself.


​​​​​I had all the machining work done at an over-priced shop and the 4 injectors still only cost $80 total to clean, flow test, balance replace filters and get new o-rings and insulators (the thick rubber washers on each end of the injector). My cold start injector was spraying fine so I left it alone.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:53 AM
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Update

gsp4life, thanks for your latest imput on the issue of the oil pan gasket situation. I appreciated it.

Just to follow up in case I haven't been writing lately. I got all the parts here now at my home that I ordered:

Complete Engine gasket set
Complete Timing chain kit, including new oil pump, new timing cover, and new water pump.
New VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). The odometer and speedometer on the instrument cluster panel not working) Possibly the old VSS is worn out. Going to have to check the voltage on both VSS. Also, the possibility of the electrical wiring to the VSS is faulty. Will update on that, too.
New Fuel Filter (might as well replace the old fuel filter while I have room in the engine bay cavity now)
Complete Clutch kit including new flywheel
Transducal manual transmission seal
New Radiator

The rebuilding of both the short block and head cylinder will be finish by this upcoming Tuesday or Wednesday. Stay tune.
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Old 06-09-2017, 06:18 AM
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Rebuilt engine and head cylinder arrived

Update: Both the rebuilt engine and head cylinder were picked up on Tuesday. I was impressed with the work. However, the old head cylinder head had chipped metal around the valves area and the shop owner replaced with another rebuilt head cylinder. Everything looked practically brand new. Now I can get to work putting all back together. Stay tune with pictures.
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Old 06-09-2017, 06:43 AM
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Sounds all good. Did you have the shop assemble your short block? (crank shaft, bearings, rods, pistons, rings, etc. all in place?) If not, I can give you some helpful tips to avoid mistakes.

Make sure when you bolt down the head and rocker assembly that you follow the correct torque procedure. Real important to keep everything aligned properly.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:15 PM
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Ordered new 10 head bolts and wavy/curvy 8mm washers

Sorry about not responding earlier. I was researching about the issue of the 10 head bolts. To replaced the 10 head bolts with new ones seems to me the right thing to do.

gsp4life, yes, the shop did all the work in reassemble the short block, including bearings, rods, pistons, shaft, etc., all in place.

Yes, when I will bolt down the head and rocker assembly, I make sure I will follow the correct torque procedure. There is a write up I found somewhere that explains this procedure properly and correctly.

I went ahead and ordered brand new 10 head bolts for my peace of mind. In addition, I ordered 8 mm wave/curvy washers for the timing cover bolts. That was something I did not know about. I also included a picture/diagram of the timing cover bolts below, its size and torque and location of the bolts that goes in the timing chain cover. This is really good thing to know and to have. I should receive both the new 10 head bolts and the washers by later next week. I will continue to follow up on my progress. Stay tune.
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Old 07-04-2017, 11:09 AM
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Update:
I am still waiting for my friend to show and help me put the engine together and put it in the engine bay. I also painted the short block using high heat paint/enamel spray can. I also painted the valve cover and the intake manifold. Stay tune.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:52 AM
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Back to work on the engine now

I am sorry for the two year delay. I am now back on track to put the engine together. One thing I noticed when I lined up the number 1 piston in align with the cylinder head, the crankshaft pulley with its mark shows 6 o'clock position instead of 12 o clock position. I thought the mark should be around the 12 o clock position. Any comments on that issue? Thanks for reading.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:20 AM
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Crankshaft "sprocket." At TDC, the shaft key is up, and the mark on the sprocket will be on the bottom. http://web.archive.org/web/201210231.../8timingch.pdf Just like you see.

Yeah, you DO need access to an FSM, paper or online. How else will you know all the required torques? "Tight" is correct only some of the time. Your crankshaft bolt goes in with 116 ft-lbs, which is way past "tight" in my book.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:34 AM
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Hey scopes103 long time no read! thanks for the imput. Yes, I do have FSM and I am kind of rusty but slowly getting back on track.
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