Bleeder-Dude's Official 22re Engine Rebuild Thread - TONS OF PICTURES!!!
#522
P.S.
the cam sounds GREAT!!!!!!!!!...i have the idle set a tad high (bout 1100 rpms) for the first 500 miles or so..after that i'll turn it back down to about 700roms..it should sound nice and lumpy then lmao...i can DEFINATELY tell that its a rebuilt motor..it runs amazing..
the engine in my truck was rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago by an aussie my mother was dateing. he done a great job btw. all i need is a little extra grunt, so a cam and header might be in order after i see how well it's liked by mr. superbleeder and who ever else runs them.
#523
ya i can kinda tell..we got the valve clearances wrong..so after we adjust them..and we get my exhaust leak fixed..and get my vacuum lines all right..we should be good to go..i'll report back in a few days with some good thoughts!
#524
Hey Bleeder
I found a little side project for you while you are waiting for the clutch! Remove/Clean/Paint/Lube/Re-Install your Aisin Hubs.You may have already done this but I just did and it was worth the time. Plus you get to pick any color you want for the dial!! I only suggest this because your attention to detail is more intense than mine!!
DSC00145-1.jpg?t=1246313166
Mine aren't flawless(and they are kinda dirty in the pic), but I am sure you could get yours perfect with from what I have seen of your painting skills
EDIT: Sorry Bleeder, I just ran into the write up you did on your hubs when you painted them. LOL And I was right. They did come out much nicer than mine!!
DSC00145-1.jpg?t=1246313166
Mine aren't flawless(and they are kinda dirty in the pic), but I am sure you could get yours perfect with from what I have seen of your painting skills
EDIT: Sorry Bleeder, I just ran into the write up you did on your hubs when you painted them. LOL And I was right. They did come out much nicer than mine!!
Last edited by Chutchman; Jun 29, 2009 at 02:06 PM.
#525
Bleeder,
I meant to ask this earlier but got wrapped around other things. Are you going to run synthetic in that thing from initial start up? I figured since you put all this time into it you'd run something for the internals to get more than 300,000 miles out of it. I mean you do have to consider the fact that your great grandson is going to need a Toyota....
I meant to ask this earlier but got wrapped around other things. Are you going to run synthetic in that thing from initial start up? I figured since you put all this time into it you'd run something for the internals to get more than 300,000 miles out of it. I mean you do have to consider the fact that your great grandson is going to need a Toyota....
#526

Bleeder,
I meant to ask this earlier but got wrapped around other things. Are you going to run synthetic in that thing from initial start up? I figured since you put all this time into it you'd run something for the internals to get more than 300,000 miles out of it. I mean you do have to consider the fact that your great grandson is going to need a Toyota....
I meant to ask this earlier but got wrapped around other things. Are you going to run synthetic in that thing from initial start up? I figured since you put all this time into it you'd run something for the internals to get more than 300,000 miles out of it. I mean you do have to consider the fact that your great grandson is going to need a Toyota....


...and if you ran synthetic from start up I would guess you'll be rebuilding again in <1,500 miles! SYNTHETIC IS A HUGE NO-NO UNTIL THE MOTOR IS FULLY & COMPLETLEY BROKEN IN!!!
i'll be running valvoline 10-30 dino oil for at least 5,000 to ensure no issues.
Synthetic is TOO slippery and the rings will NEVER seal properly!
Last edited by 4Krawler; Jun 29, 2009 at 04:47 PM.
#529
I found a little side project for you while you are waiting for the clutch! Remove/Clean/Paint/Lube/Re-Install your Aisin Hubs.You may have already done this but I just did and it was worth the time. Plus you get to pick any color you want for the dial!! I only suggest this because your attention to detail is more intense than mine!!

Mine aren't flawless(and they are kinda dirty in the pic), but I am sure you could get yours perfect with from what I have seen of your painting skills
EDIT: Sorry Bleeder, I just ran into the write up you did on your hubs when you painted them. LOL And I was right. They did come out much nicer than mine!!

Mine aren't flawless(and they are kinda dirty in the pic), but I am sure you could get yours perfect with from what I have seen of your painting skills
EDIT: Sorry Bleeder, I just ran into the write up you did on your hubs when you painted them. LOL And I was right. They did come out much nicer than mine!!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ry-day-156896/

Bleeder,
I meant to ask this earlier but got wrapped around other things. Are you going to run synthetic in that thing from initial start up? I figured since you put all this time into it you'd run something for the internals to get more than 300,000 miles out of it. I mean you do have to consider the fact that your great grandson is going to need a Toyota....
I meant to ask this earlier but got wrapped around other things. Are you going to run synthetic in that thing from initial start up? I figured since you put all this time into it you'd run something for the internals to get more than 300,000 miles out of it. I mean you do have to consider the fact that your great grandson is going to need a Toyota....



...and if you ran synthetic from start up I would guess you'll be rebuilding again in <1,500 miles! SYNTHETIC IS A HUGE NO-NO UNTIL THE MOTOR IS FULLY & COMPLETLEY BROKEN IN!!!
i'll be running valvoline 10-30 dino oil for at least 5,000 to ensure no issues.
Synthetic is TOO slippery and the rings will NEVER seal properly!

\yes, still ordering parts, but no, this thing aint done yet

BUT I did do a little more cleaning today, as well as bolting on a couple things, like the rear main seal:

and the oil pickp tube:

I got to cleaning up the flywheel cause I was going to take it tomorrow and get it turned, but after cleaning, here's what I found:





after 296k miles, I figured I retire the original flywheel


Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Jun 29, 2009 at 07:41 PM.
#531
#533
hey bleeder...my flywheel looked EXACTLY the same..it had dozens of those little "cracks"..took it to the machine shop..he said those are just surface cracks..and he machined em right out in a matter of minutes...so if you havent already bought a new one..take yer old one to the machine shop and ask them first!!!!!
#534
hey bleeder...my flywheel looked EXACTLY the same..it had dozens of those little "cracks"..took it to the machine shop..he said those are just surface cracks..and he machined em right out in a matter of minutes...so if you havent already bought a new one..take yer old one to the machine shop and ask them first!!!!!

I've always been told that if there's cracks, it's junk...
I'll bring the old one along tomorrow and see if they can maybe machine it out; I can always return this new one

The new one only cost $60! If the resurface is half that or more, I'm just going to keep the new one, lol
#537
lol, if you're talking about the flywheel in the last pic, that's because it's the new one 
I didn't get a chance to bring the old one by a shop today to have it looked at btw

I didn't get a chance to bring the old one by a shop today to have it looked at btw
#538
Hey bleeder i get my block back today (Wednesday) and will start on the painting and stuff Wednesday night or Thursday so maybe we can get an idea of how different or similar our paint scams will be.lol
#539
well dangit...
I just checked the FedEx tracking number for the MC order with my clutch, and it's estimated delivery date is July 8th
so I guess I wont be sliding the motor in with the clutch bolted to it this weekend...
I guess I COULD just drop the tranny and clean it up some (I know it's filthy), and go ahead and drop the motor in the engine bay... I really didn't plan on dropp'n the tranny, but eh, what's it gunna hurt... I still need to change the input shaft seal anyway; it would be a lot easier to get to with the tranny out from under the truck
but my LCE order will be here Friday via UPS
of caurse, most of that order is look-goods, lol, aside from the emmision block-off plates
I just checked the FedEx tracking number for the MC order with my clutch, and it's estimated delivery date is July 8th

so I guess I wont be sliding the motor in with the clutch bolted to it this weekend...
I guess I COULD just drop the tranny and clean it up some (I know it's filthy), and go ahead and drop the motor in the engine bay... I really didn't plan on dropp'n the tranny, but eh, what's it gunna hurt... I still need to change the input shaft seal anyway; it would be a lot easier to get to with the tranny out from under the truck

but my LCE order will be here Friday via UPS
of caurse, most of that order is look-goods, lol, aside from the emmision block-off plates






