Awesome write-up!

 

Wow this is a saver. I too was in the same boat. I had to pull the head after discovering IK on the inside of the oil filler cap, and then busting off a spark plug in # 4 cyl. Well i never thought I could do it on my own. I did with help from here, via pics and advice. I love this place. Oh and 92 did you change your fuel filter?

 

Funny.... I never stopped to read this since we did ours at the same time and shared notes along the way, but you really have done a wonderful job with this thread. Could you imagine how much easier it would have been for us to have a thread this detailed? Nice job Jerry. This is going to help a lot of people.

 

no TEUF...I didn't.

yeh...I couldn't imagine trying to do this kinda stuff without YOTATECH.

 

Rob...
I had said several times at the start in my original thread, I think, that I needed, we needed , a set of instructions that starts off at "open the hood" and details it every step of the way. I'm hoping I accomplished something close to that here.

 

Awesome thread!!! Gunna come in handy during my rebuild.... Subscribed!!! lol

 

thanks very much

 

Nice write-up. It looks like you had a heck of a lot of trouble with the crank pulley bolt. I'll give you and any readers who may have issues a little hint. As you've found out it can be a real pain with an auto, or if you have a motor out of the car.

What I do, it to first put the motor at bottom dead center for #1 cylinder. I usually just stick a welding rod, or thin screwdriver in to the spark plug hole, and watch until it bottoms out, and starts coming back up.

Take some plastic feeder line from a weed whacker. The thickest stuff is about 1/4" in diameter, and is usually orange. This works best. You can get it at any hardware store in a big roll for a few bucks. Feed a few feet of this into the cylinder through the spark-plug hole, making sure to leave a bit sticking out so you can pull on it later.

Put a socket on the pulley bolt, and spin the motor counter-clockwise. As the piston comes up, it will eventually try to compress the plastic line, and bind the motor. Now, you can throw your big breaker bar on the bolt, and crack it loose no problem.

Once the bolt is loose, crank the motor slightly clockwise, and pull the line out of the cylinder. You're done.

The plastic line is soft enough that it will not damage any surfaces inside the cylinder, yet it will displace enough volunme within the cylinder to securely bind the motor, and prevent it from spinning. I've taken off lots of pulley bolts with this method, and it works great.


Hope it helps.


Edit: Another quick suggestion, while you have everything apart anyways, spend the extra 100 bucks, and get a performace cam for the motor. It's the best time to install it when the top end is all apart.

 

i saw a similar hint somewhere about feeding some rope in the hole as well.

as far as the cam, absolutely the right time and place to so it. i chose to not upgrade, no regrets. was always happy or at least satisfied with my motor and know every nuance of it.....how much i can haul, how fast i can merge, what my mpg's should be.

but certainly, i won't argue, the performance gains are well documented with the cam change.

 

rebuilt several 22r's starter bump trick works in about 45 seconds and is the first step found out the hard way after several broken sockets and finally haveing to use 1" impact on my 1st rebuild 12 years ago

 

Wishing I had the resources and time like you guys to take out my whole engine and just fix everything wrong with it. It's so hard working with it in the engine bay. Currently replacing the manifold gaskets and such. The lower part is off but still in the bay because of the wiring harness. Super pissed right now...btw this thread is lovely and helps out a lot with locating stuff and such.

 

Just unhook the plugs from the O2 sensor and tranny. It's easy to do. Then you can pull the manifold out and clean it up. 2 wires if its 2wd and three if its 4wd. Go look at it and DO IT.

 

I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks for a heads up. I am soloing this. Totally.

 

gets my vote for a sticky! AWESOME!

 

Dude, do yourself the favor and unclip the wiring harness. There are two wires that goto the tranny (passenger side), one to the cat on the driverside. Then in the engine bay there is one wire to the starter, and two into the block, one has a plastic cap right under the oil filter. One more wire to the front differential (literally in the front of the front differential). They are all distinct connectors so you can't mix them up on reinstall--but note the path they take through the engine bay, or you won't be able to reach their connections.

I was in the same spot as you last week, and pulled the wiring harness after tryin to clean the lower EFI that was still in the bay. Pulled the wire harness, and was able to remove and clean the lower EFI, and bolt it to the head and install it as one unit back to the block.

 

how long did it took from when you first heard the chain rattling sound for things to get this messy inside the motor???

 

frequently when i would start it up, i would here a noise, that , to me, i thought was the "lifters making noise until they got oil"....again....remember i had no mechanical experience at that point.

the night it failed, the 2nd time (it happened twice....if you read the 1st post in THREAD "A"...the whole story is there), the noise did not go away. i drove about 4 or 5 miles for pizza and on the way home the temp started going up and the the truck just shut off......in other words....that time it was fast.

 

mine is starting to go now.. it would come on then goes away when the motor is warm.. but cut back one at 2300 rpm and off at 2500 rpm..

 

This thread has been like my bible, lol. I will be doing mine hopefully starting this week

 

im going for it,but on an engine stand and a complete rebuild. still working on my research but this site has given me the required confidence.