BEGINNER'S 22re Timing Chain Failure / replacement / head gasket replacement
#101
i have a quick question,i had the same thing happen to my truck (80 pickup w/ 20r) and was thinking of doing the same thing you did, but what about the bottom end, i hear that if coolant comes in contact w/ the bearings it messes them up?
#103
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
if i were smart, i would have done the bottom end. but i'm not. so we shall see.
when the "mixing" occurred, it was just down the road from my house about 2 tenths of a mile and changed the oil the next morning.
when the "mixing" occurred, it was just down the road from my house about 2 tenths of a mile and changed the oil the next morning.
#104
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
It's true....one could get lucky. IOW's, Toyota did use VERY good bearings from the factory. A tri-metal type/lead babbit. They are very forgiving. I had small, metal fragments float about in the bottom end of my 22re after my last timing chain failure. After pulling everything apart, I discovered a bit had lodged in the bearings; either the rod or the main.........don't remember right now. Anyway, due the bearings material being softer than what's popularly being sold now....aluminum, the particulates lodged/sunk in without damaging the crank AT ALL!. Theoretically, I could have actually reused them going by the opinion and experience of a very good, local engine builder/mechanic. But, since I had it apart, and since putting new ones in meant it would tighten the oil tolerances since I didn't need to turn the crank, I got some new tri-metal bearings. Well, atleast the main bearings are tri-metal. I had to special order them from a local machine shop and the ones they'd gotten for the rods were aluminum. Oh well. I could've had them reorder, but it would've meant waiting even longer. So, I just used those. As long as tri-metal is available, though, that's is what I will try to use in the crankcase.
On the other hand, I have been told by a different a local mechanic, who is a friend and has rebuilt many 22r/re's due to timing/headgasket failures, more often than not the customer that didn't choose to refresh the bearing after the failure wound up coming back a year or so later. Without knowing the exact nature of what the customer did after the failure, it's hard to say what the determining factor is. IOW's, how much was the vehicle driven or run after it happened. 2/10's of a mile is not very far, so you may come out alright. Just watch for a copper tone in the oil on your oil changes.
On the other hand, I have been told by a different a local mechanic, who is a friend and has rebuilt many 22r/re's due to timing/headgasket failures, more often than not the customer that didn't choose to refresh the bearing after the failure wound up coming back a year or so later. Without knowing the exact nature of what the customer did after the failure, it's hard to say what the determining factor is. IOW's, how much was the vehicle driven or run after it happened. 2/10's of a mile is not very far, so you may come out alright. Just watch for a copper tone in the oil on your oil changes.
#105
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YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
definitely keeping an eye on things.
if i had bought this truck from someone trying to tell me the same story, i would have done the bottom end. but because it's mine, and i know what to be true and correct , i chose the easy out.
if i had bought this truck from someone trying to tell me the same story, i would have done the bottom end. but because it's mine, and i know what to be true and correct , i chose the easy out.
#108
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yes, you....haha. It would be a good idea, for sure. If the bearings start going south, the pressure will start to drop. That is if they haven't already. Um......see 'bout checkin' that oil pressure.
Last edited by thook; Sep 3, 2010 at 04:55 AM.
#110
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
here it is for ya.....the pipes are not very forgiving....this is probably why the FSM has you assemble all this while the head is off.....and re-attach the head with the exhaust and intake manifolds attached ....and weighing an easy 100lbs.
scraped the old gasket material off.
found that in following the FSM for installing the EGR to the block, it omitted the step of a new gasket...i had used BLACK RTV...so we will see if that bites me someday. i trimmed the lower intake gasket to subtract for that area.

new gasket

a few PITA parts here are again, those crazy metal pipes and getting the to line up where you need them.....some BLACK RTV again where a rubber gasket is and was able to get the lower intake in place on it.......had trouble getting both bolts to thread and no matter what positioning i tried, i could not get it....so i used the vice grips again, and again, it worked like a charm.


i used my template (pizza box) to re-install the bolts....and don't forget the allen bolt (mine was new from LC Engineering since i had stripped-out the head of the old one)
right under the thermostat


and i was done with the lower intake manifold install

found that in following the FSM for installing the EGR to the block, it omitted the step of a new gasket...i had used BLACK RTV...so we will see if that bites me someday. i trimmed the lower intake gasket to subtract for that area.

new gasket

a few PITA parts here are again, those crazy metal pipes and getting the to line up where you need them.....some BLACK RTV again where a rubber gasket is and was able to get the lower intake in place on it.......had trouble getting both bolts to thread and no matter what positioning i tried, i could not get it....so i used the vice grips again, and again, it worked like a charm.


i used my template (pizza box) to re-install the bolts....and don't forget the allen bolt (mine was new from LC Engineering since i had stripped-out the head of the old one)
right under the thermostat


and i was done with the lower intake manifold install

Last edited by 92 TOY; Sep 6, 2010 at 09:23 AM.
#113
I want to express my gratitude as well. I am about a month out from starting a full tear-down and rebuild myself. I have a -very- similar picture of shrapnel in the oil pan as I had a guide disintegrate when a stray bolt locked up my flywheel. The truck is sitting currently with oilpan off, valve cover off, and some other things checked. I will definately be referencing your thread for alot of the details. Excellent work for a 'rookie'. My 92 pickup is my 3rd toyota and I have been down the the pistons before in my old Mr2. I am fully impressed at your work and dedication, not to mention your documentation
Glad to have members willing to put this much effort into their work.
I might have to look you up if I run into any issues in January
Andy
Glad to have members willing to put this much effort into their work.I might have to look you up if I run into any issues in January

Andy
#115
hey 92, i have a friend of mine that's getting ready 2 do same basic job as u did . it's 4 his nephew , do u recommend doing a valve job while head is off ? it's a 92 22re with 132000 miles on it with 5speed , he is not even old enough 2 drive.when they purchased truck it wasn't running , chain wore through cover .
thanks nice writeup bro....
thanks nice writeup bro....
#116
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
valve job was easy, if the valves are good i guess.....lapping them is tedious and time consuming, but just be methodical and organized (like i was) and it will go well.
i was very much pressured into doing it and i don't regret it at all........it was one more project i didn't have to worry about doing later on.
i was very much pressured into doing it and i don't regret it at all........it was one more project i didn't have to worry about doing later on.
#117
Timing cover or head goes back on first?
I thoroughly enjoyed 92's write up, as I'm a newbie in the middle of the same project (85 SR5/22RE). I got the head, timing cover and oil pan all off now, in the cleaning process, but trying to figure out the best order to put them back on. FSM has the cover going on first, but it seems that makes it harder to install the chain/cam sprocket. Is there a good reason the head can't be reinstalled first (before the timing chain cover)? Also, thanks for the heads-up on witchhunter and the injectors -- I hadnt even thought of doing that. Thanks again for a very well written and informative article.
#118
Thread Starter
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Joined: Jan 2009
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Likes: 122
From: Northeast Pennsylvania
hey, you are very welcome.
only reason i can think of to do timing cover then head is because of the possibility of crunching up the hanging-over part of head gasket when putting the timing cover on. many have successfully done, lots have failed.....i chose to do it my way (cover then head) but you can see how meticulous i was at keeping that chain in the right spot.
there are other injector cleaning services, but i had great success with witch hunter.
only reason i can think of to do timing cover then head is because of the possibility of crunching up the hanging-over part of head gasket when putting the timing cover on. many have successfully done, lots have failed.....i chose to do it my way (cover then head) but you can see how meticulous i was at keeping that chain in the right spot.
there are other injector cleaning services, but i had great success with witch hunter.
#119
What's left to say?
It's all been said before. FREAKING AWESOME IMHO. OK, I don't recall anyone saying that so...
Seriously though, great job! Gives me the confidence to take on the job myself. Not only informative but entertaining to boot! Definitely going into my Fav's file for future reference.
Seriously though, great job! Gives me the confidence to take on the job myself. Not only informative but entertaining to boot! Definitely going into my Fav's file for future reference.



