Beefy front CV's?
#2
The stock outter birfield joints are very strong, its the inners that are the weak link. You could buy a oem set of expensive outters, have them cryo'd and put a set of porsche inners. Infact Downey now sells the prosche inners and the flange.
#4
Search - it's been discussed a number of times. Long story short, the answer is yes, but it'll cost enough to take a big chunk out of the SAS cost.
Last edited by tc; Feb 5, 2007 at 05:49 PM.
#6
I just don't have the need to go SAS. I'll be running a front locker shortly and 5.29's. I don't want to dump that kind of money into this truck, only to have to convert the rear to a leaf setup as well.
I think that a beefed up IFS system will be plenty capable for my needs.
And I tried searching, but my brain isn't functioning trying to think of different keywords.
Why is this a waste of time? some strong, high angle CV's will last long and allow for better flex.
I think that a beefed up IFS system will be plenty capable for my needs.
And I tried searching, but my brain isn't functioning trying to think of different keywords.
Why is this a waste of time? some strong, high angle CV's will last long and allow for better flex.
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#8
I just don't have the need to go SAS. I'll be running a front locker shortly and 5.29's. I don't want to dump that kind of money into this truck, only to have to convert the rear to a leaf setup as well.
I think that a beefed up IFS system will be plenty capable for my needs.
And I tried searching, but my brain isn't functioning trying to think of different keywords.
Why is this a waste of time? some strong, high angle CV's will last long and allow for better flex.
I think that a beefed up IFS system will be plenty capable for my needs.
And I tried searching, but my brain isn't functioning trying to think of different keywords.
Why is this a waste of time? some strong, high angle CV's will last long and allow for better flex.
#11
porsche cv's are your best bet. Any of the desert race companies can direct you. check www.kartek.com or www.protrux.net
Last edited by deathrunner; Feb 6, 2007 at 09:10 AM.
#12
Try searching "Porsche" as it is the Porsche cv's that are supposed to be the hot item.
#13
So I get the feeling you are looking just because you're afraid you'll potentially blow CV's with the new setup?
The price range seems to vary between $500 and $1000 a set - a ton of money to spend on a "maybe". The other thing to consider is that you can't really beef up the 7.5" R&P, and the 5.29 pinion only has 7 teeth. i would rather blow hubs or CV's than a R&P any day...
The price range seems to vary between $500 and $1000 a set - a ton of money to spend on a "maybe". The other thing to consider is that you can't really beef up the 7.5" R&P, and the 5.29 pinion only has 7 teeth. i would rather blow hubs or CV's than a R&P any day...
#14
I am merely making the point that the CV's are #1 cheap and #2 easy to replace. The steering seems to be more the problem with a locked front on a 2nd gen.
#15
I have killed 6 outer joints. Not a single inner. The INNERS are STRONGER.
How many joints have you broken or are you giving in to internet hype?
The outer is a CV type, the inner is a tripod. On LT kits, they use T-100 inners that are true CV's for more range of motion.
2nd Gen steering licks the big one.
The best CV's come from Longfield:

are 30 splines and go in these:
How many joints have you broken or are you giving in to internet hype?
The outer is a CV type, the inner is a tripod. On LT kits, they use T-100 inners that are true CV's for more range of motion.
2nd Gen steering licks the big one.
The best CV's come from Longfield:

are 30 splines and go in these:
#16
I'm not sure if anyone has come up with a replacement inner CV yet.
#19
So I get the feeling you are looking just because you're afraid you'll potentially blow CV's with the new setup?
The price range seems to vary between $500 and $1000 a set - a ton of money to spend on a "maybe". The other thing to consider is that you can't really beef up the 7.5" R&P, and the 5.29 pinion only has 7 teeth. i would rather blow hubs or CV's than a R&P any day...
The price range seems to vary between $500 and $1000 a set - a ton of money to spend on a "maybe". The other thing to consider is that you can't really beef up the 7.5" R&P, and the 5.29 pinion only has 7 teeth. i would rather blow hubs or CV's than a R&P any day...
I'm sure I'll be doing the manual hub swap too.
Beef up? Cryo+shot peen can increase strength as much as 40%....which is pretty significant

I'll look into the porsche CV's. Mainly I'd like to get more flex out of them, since as stated the inners are tripods and a true inner CV will give more flex.
Thanks for the info so far guys.
No i haven't broken any yet....but I think the yet is just a matter of time now.
funny about the steering........I haven't been using a steering stabilizer for a few days now, and I'm actually completely surprised how the steering is not affected. Of course.....i'm still IFS which has a big role in that...but ya know....Steering can be beefed up/changed.
Last edited by chimmike; Feb 6, 2007 at 09:28 AM.
#20
SAS it and be one of the hundreds of people who got talked into it from an internet forum where the majority of the people think you need a solid axle to go through the Micky D's drive through. IFS is for losers!
Seriously, are you having a problem with CV breakage or are you wanting to prevent it from happening? IMO stock CV's are plenty strong for minimal flex and hp, unless you have a lot of travel CV angle is not so much of a problem. I understand that piece of mind is a good investment but there is a reason for Porche CV's being utalized and it all comes down to CV angle (the strength of a porche CV is secondary to the angle capabilities as far as a Toyota is concerned). If your suspension is stock or bracket lifted the angles of the CV's are not going to be such that are too much for the stockers. The reason that I say that the strength of a Porche CV is secondary is because you are dealing with a Toyota not a 600 hp buggy with 20+ inches of rear wheel travel on CV's. Front lockers are hard on everything and for the money I would rather break 10 stockers and replace them than buy an exotic specialty part that costs an arm and a leg that is capable of breaking too. They do break.
The stock steering on the Gen II's do suck but only until you put about $600 into them then they are fine.
Seriously, are you having a problem with CV breakage or are you wanting to prevent it from happening? IMO stock CV's are plenty strong for minimal flex and hp, unless you have a lot of travel CV angle is not so much of a problem. I understand that piece of mind is a good investment but there is a reason for Porche CV's being utalized and it all comes down to CV angle (the strength of a porche CV is secondary to the angle capabilities as far as a Toyota is concerned). If your suspension is stock or bracket lifted the angles of the CV's are not going to be such that are too much for the stockers. The reason that I say that the strength of a Porche CV is secondary is because you are dealing with a Toyota not a 600 hp buggy with 20+ inches of rear wheel travel on CV's. Front lockers are hard on everything and for the money I would rather break 10 stockers and replace them than buy an exotic specialty part that costs an arm and a leg that is capable of breaking too. They do break.
The stock steering on the Gen II's do suck but only until you put about $600 into them then they are fine.



