interesting, I am going to order a set here pretty quick and dont want to run into that problem. I already have to put a 1/4" spacer on to run chains with my winter tires.... but I guess i could always sell the almunim rims (aftermkt) and get some steelies...black looks better with big rubber anyhow....

 

Im pretty sure any aftermarket....well most aftermarket rims will be fine. Basically if you're wheels stick out more than factory, you should be fine. I could be wrong on this, but thats what I had imagined.

 

1993 Toyota stock rims (and other years with the same rims) have about 4.5 inchs of back spaceing. i think. rims with less back spacing or taller rims with larger tires will have less or no problems with rubbing on the a-arm. so shiftless 89, with less back spacing is almost as far out as i am now with the 1.5 inch wheel spacers and i'm not having any more probs either. like s wall98 said, most after market rims will have less back spacing and will workout fine.

 

Man, those studs are pain to get out!!! I'm about worn out and still have three studs to get out. I've got the LCA jacked up to hold up the BJ against the UCA, and have been beating it with a 6-lb maul, to no avail. The first one on that side fell out fairly quick, but these last three are being stuubbboorrnn. I tried Mat's tip on the first side, but it didn't work for me. BTW, it takes a 6" extension to reach the arm of the steering knuckle to use a 13mm socket.

BTW, my stock rims w/ 235's almost rub at full droop. I'll get to see if the do at standing height. Same place above the lip on the rounded part.

 

Yes they are. Nothing else but pain.

I tried everything, but I had to cut two of them and drill them out.

 

I didn't have near as much corrosion as MaTTi did, but I'm still having to cut out two of them and drill them out.

Hey! Why don't we get turbo-diesel Toyotas here??? I said about 8 years ago that if I could have a TD 4runner I would give up my old blue. They don't have them here, so I keep driving it!

 

Had to drill out the last two studs. Here's a pic of my rig flexing with stock rims, 235's at street pressure. That's 17.5" of total articulation. Not astounding, but pretty good for IFS w/ Monroe Sensatrac shocks on it. The second pic is of the oversize nut and washer to act as spacers for the front shocks. I think I'm getting max droop out of the BJ spacers with this.

 

How are you measuring that 17.5"?

 

The combined height of the blocks in the front and the blocks in the back at a diagonal. Didn't have a ramp, so it's a common trick to approximate a ramp with opposite lifts like that.

 

Hmm, never seen it done that way. I have always heard it in terms of travel per wheel. So 17.5" would say one wheel moved 17.5"... Was that as high as you could get the rear off the ground, its lower than the front? Just seems odd to me...

 

You jack up the opposing wheels like that until you start to lift a tire and the ting starts teetering. It give the same basic affect as just jacking one wheel, but is probably a little safer than jacking one wheel way up in the air, and alot of jacks don't go that high.

 

Hmmm.... what do you refernce that number to? Wheelbase, or is it just a number?

 

What I was getting to was a cheap RTI (ramp travel index). See 4Crawler's idea at
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Ramp.shtml

I guess the 17.5 inches would put me at somewhere a little over 500RTI

 

Gotcha... I guess its a way to do it,