I just bought a BJ spacer. I need step by step direction and pictures would help. I'm sure their are all over the forum but i'm so lazy to search. Thanks

 

www.4crawler.com

Just received mine in the mail yesterday, will install this weekend.

 

I already tried looking their. Maybe I just suck at this.

 

From the top of many of the pages are two search buttons, one via Google that you can use to navigate the pages there.

The direct link is:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...owTo.shtml#4WD

 

Would it be easyer if I took the top A-Arm off and worked on it for should I just keep it on the car?

 

Probably more work (or at least steps involved) overall to remove the arm, but if it makes it easier to access that way, should be OK to do it like that.

 

So witch is better taking it off or not

 

I just put mine on a couple weeks ago.... leave the arm on. Wow it would be a lot more work if you were to take it off. The area is tight to grind in, but with the shock removed there is no problem. Honestly if you just start into it it is all pretty straight forward. I did mine without instructions.

 

Not would be the answer. I would slip something like a piece of wood in between the upper a-arm and its bumpstop. That will give plenty of clearance for the lower assembly to drop out of the way.

Did you read the post with the alignment discussion? If not I'll be happy to tell you how to align your truck yourself.

Frank

 

Sure that would help if you showed me how to align it myself. Thanks

 

I'll give you the text version for now but will try to take some pictures tonight.

Take some pictures of where your alignment cam bolts are now. Measure your truck now to see if the drivers/passenger sides are level. This is good to know and I'll explain later.

When the spacers in and you are ready to drop the truck:

1) Turn the rear cambolts most of the way towards the outsides. This help to bring in the camber. Turn the front cam bolts about 45 degrees towards the outsides. The tires should be close to vert. This is just a preliminary adjustment so don't sweat getting it right on. It's going to change when you put the truck on the ground.

2) Lower the truck.

3) Adjust the toe so the tires are visually aligned to the rear. Again, this is the preliminary so you don't need to be spot on. Make sure the wheel is centered when doing this.

4) How is the ride height? If you truck was like mine where the previous owner jacked up the torsion bars you will need to lower them. I had to lower mine like 5 turns. There are many instructions on how to do this but basically use a tape measure and pick a part of the frame, like the body mounts, and measure both sides. You want it the right height and level side to side. After each adjustment, roll the truck back and forth about 10 feet to relax the suspension.

Like the ride height? Good, now move on to dialing in the suspension.

5) Put a square or square object next the tire. It likely won't be vertical. You will adjust the lower cams to get it in. You will want to roll the truck back and forth after adjustments. Symmetry is what you are after here. The rear cam bolts should be out more than the foward ones to give the truck negative caster. If you had drastic differences between these before you began, AND you truck was properly aligned, you either brought it to the alignement shop with one side higher than the other or your stuff is bent from wheeling. The way you can tell is if your truck was level side to side and the cam bolts are not very symmetric, you have bent stuff, nothin' you can do about it so proceed knowing that when you are done there will not be symmetry and it will (should) be biased similarly to before you started.. If you found initially the truck was not quite level, then assuming that it is now, shoot for symmetry and again proceed.

6) Set the toe. What I do is take a string and tie it to that side's tow hook. I string it around the outside of the tire and walk to the rear tire. I bring the string in until it is touching both sides of the front tire thus indicating its direction. Measure that string against both outsides of the rear tire. You want 1/8" difference with the front tire angling in. It is easy to do this and will set the toe dead on. You want to roll the truck back and forth after adjustments and make sure the steering wheel stays centered.

7) Make sure all is tight and take it for a test drive to work the suspension a bit. Re-measure the height, level, camber and toe one more time. You might make some small tweaks.

When you first install a lift kit, the alignment is typically way off so the first time takes a while. If you learn this you will save yourself 50 bucks every time you jack up your suspension from wheeling hard and subsequent tweaking is like a 15 minute deal. I just did this last Thursday when I installed spacers on my new-to-me truck and my steering wheel is dead straight, no pull, drives awesome.

Frank

 

Sweet!!!

 

X2. Thanks for the alignment tips.

 

Like this?

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...GetAnAlignment

 

Thanks again

 

Great info in here.


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