Anyone familiar with the Charge wire on a 86 4runner or Pick up?
I replaced the stock white wire with a 6 Gauge wire and now have no power at all to my dash board. I ran it from the alternator following the harness to the 80Amp fusible link.

I am guessing there is a split off somewhere???

 

i just went through this same thing... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/lights-out-266855/
follow the wire from the alt to the drivers side inner fender up towards the air box and core support. it has one splice there that goes to the dash and running lights.

 

Awesome thanks for figuring it out. Seems exactally like my issues.
I did get the splice by the battery but did not open harness on the drivers side.

Will get it fixed pronto now.

Thanks you!

 

A problem clearly-stated is a problem half-solved.

No power to dash at all? Meaning you could not even start the truck, nor turn on headlights? Or simply no lights on dash? Tail/Marker lights working?
Stop lights working?
Dome lights working?
Rear window and power locks and window work (if equipped)?
If no lights on dash but everything else works you're not getting power to tail light relay, or relay is broken, 15A tail light fuse is blown, or tail light contacts of light control switch is bad.

If none of the above works, trace white Wire "C" on schematic and make sure it connects from Terminal 3 of 40A FL, Term 3 of ign switch to the following:
15A Stop light fuse
Door lock (if equipped) Circuit breaker on driver kick panel,
Rear power window circuit breaker,
Tail light relay (driver side kick panel) terminal 2
7.5A dome fuse.

No schematic? PM me your email.

 

Little miss spelling in above. I have no power to dash, headlights do work but zero dash lights or instruments. Did not check other accessories at the time.

I removed the wire at the alternator and cut it a few inches away where it enters harness. I then cut it just after where it leaves a small black junction box ontop of the drivers fender.
From here it was removed in 1 piece all the way to the battery side of truck just to where it Y'ed into another white wire that I traced to the engines fuse box. This new spiced wire is not fused but seems to just pass thru, it is next to the small fuse links and kind of centered in the box.

So there must of been another splice either in the stock harness on the drivers side from the little black junction box to where it exits then goes to alternator OR another splice just after the splice I found by the passengers headlight/battery area.

Fuses are all good. None blown.

 

I just ran into this problem last weekend after I put in my new motor. I started it up then shut it off then and tried restart and when i turned the key all I got was some clicking under the dash but no starter, dash lights, turn signals ,heater fan, dome lite, taillights , back window, wipers. The only thing that worked was headlights and emergency flashers. I cleaned all grounds ,all inside fuses where good and the ones under the hood were good. I checked both the 30 and 40 amp fusible links under the hood one would get power and the other wouldn't. Changed both with good spares and still only power to only one side of one of them. The 80 amp looked ok so I figured the problem was in the harness that runs behind top of the radiator to the driverside and alternator so I put on my spare harness . Still nothing no power to alternator or inside, the only thing I hadnt changed was the 80amp but it looked good.So I decided I would change my 80 amp to rule out if it was actually good or not, so I put in my spare 80 amp and everything came back on. Definitely recheck your 80 amp , I pulled my hair out for two days trying to figure this out and knew it had to be something simple I over looked

 

Yes, taillight fuse may be good but is there power to it?
When you turn light switch stalk to tail light, does the tail light relay click? If not, possible that the splice supplying "C" wire is inside the harness that runs across front of radiator. IF, you don't want to bother disassempbling that wire loom, at least connect white wire you cut off from stock alt-batt ("B") wire to new alt to battery wire. Simple to do. Wrap thin wire around thicker wire, solder using 80-watt soldering iron to effectively solder. Fry's Electronics is your friend

 

Banking on Robert M's finding of the "other" splice being my issue.

I always solder ALL connections. My other hobby is RC Aircraft and soldering is a necessary skill along with doing it the proper way.

RAD4Runner, ill take whatever schematics you have. Never enough good diagrams of these old trucks. PM on the way.

 

Little update:

I found that I had no power going to the 40Amp fusible link in engine fuse box.
I proceeded to open the harness up from the alternator to the black junction box on drivers fender well. Found NO splice there so I removed the old dead charge wire and reseated it all up.

I then undid the harness directly under the fuse box and worked backwards towards the battery. I followed the twin white wires that feed the 40Amp fuse and found a splice that was hidden.

So on a 1986 4Runner there are 2 splices on the charge wire. Both are on passengers side. One is directly to the left of the windshield washer container and the other is more centered on the battery. They are within 8" of each other or so.

 

well, i guess thats the difference between the 86 and a 94. same concept but different locations of connections. but hey, at least you found it.

 

There is nothing wrong with solder, but it is NEVER a substitute for a good mechanical connection -- like a crimp. Two wires "soldered together" alone will pull apart soon enough.

Toyota built that entire truck without a single drop of solder (well, there is some on the printed circuit boards in the combo panel, and probably the radio). They know something about electrical wiring.

 

Agreed, I use pre tinned crimped fittings from Mad Electrical and then solder them after crimping.
Shrink wrap and proper restraints of wires too.

 

does anyone have a wiring system diagram for a 91 4runner? its for the pigtails that connect to the alternator, i need to know where the wires go. anyone>?!?!?!

 

Little update number 2:

Finally got it all put back together, taped, zipp tied and clamped down.
New Radiator installed and everything works perfect.

First thing I noticed was voltage gauge in dash no longer deflects when I operate the rear window.

Tomorrow is a 100mile test drive out to the California desert!

 

Makes sense when you upgrade wire gauge. Less voltage drops.

Pics of the trip are mandatory - LOL! Have fun and be safe.

 

Well everything went smooth which is a good thing because I forgot to take my tool box with me

Rode the 500 more than I have in the last few years combined. Went on a 50 mile ride on Saturday and then about a 30 mile ride Sunday before returning home.

 

Toyota didn't avoid solder because it's an inferior electrical (or mechanical) connection. They did it because crimp connections are much faster to put on a wiring harness in a manufacturing environment. Whether crimp or solder, any wire connection needs good mechanical strain relief that doesn't stress the connection. You'll notice that auto manufacturers take a lot of care making sure wires are properly supported and strain relieved.

Properly done solder joints are quite strong; try pulling your copper water pipes apart without heating them up first. One problem with solder, though, is that too many people don't know how to actually make a good solder joint; improper cleaning and fluxing, and/or inadequate or misapplied heating results in weak/cold solder joints that fail quickly.

RJR

 

The driver side fender where the link is, is a ground why is this

 

Derrick -

Welcome to YotaTech.

Try using more words (or better yet, a photo) to describe your issue. Someone may know what you want, but not me.

 

White wire coming from fuse box goes around the front of the truck and to the driver side fender looks like a grounded connection, then goes to alternator there are 3 leads coming from the wire