alt fuse
#2
Something is wrong with the feedback circuit, or you've added accessories that are pulling to much current.
If it's the last problem nothing to be done but pull them off and fix your implementation..
First one could be tricky, but start with making sure all the connectors are clean and tight. Bright shining metal to bright shining metal.
If it's the last problem nothing to be done but pull them off and fix your implementation..
First one could be tricky, but start with making sure all the connectors are clean and tight. Bright shining metal to bright shining metal.
#3
Even though your post is not about a Toyota, when I replaced my alternator in my '87 truck, the new alternator was bad right out of the box. I bought it from Autozone. It also would blow the fuse immediately when reconnecting the battery. I eventually used my DMM to verify that there was continuity between the alternator battery wire and the body of the alternator.
I took it back to Autozone, they tested it, and yep, it was bad. I install the replacement, and this one worked correctly.
I took it back to Autozone, they tested it, and yep, it was bad. I install the replacement, and this one worked correctly.
#4
I too have gotten rebuilt alternators right out of the box that were bad. I would have it checked out to make sure you do have a good alternator. Most electrical issues I find are from wiring being hacked or after market equipment being added. I suggest disconnecting non factory components and see if you still have issues.
#5
O.P.,
Disconnect alt-to batt wire from stud terminal of alternator. Measure resistance from stud terminal to bright, shiny metal of battery negative or body ground like Slo-Mo did^^^. You should get LOTS OF Mega-ohms. If not, yes, bad alternator.
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