justsobuff

I have a 1988 toyota truck with the 22RE motor. I had a pretty bad vacuum Leak so i did the break fluid trick and found it was my intake and plenum gasket . So replaced them and got it all buttoned up and for some reason i have to have my timing advanced for it to run good. Now i do have a couple sensors that need replaced. The diagram on the hood says there vsv and one is a bvsv . The one is on the valve cover and has a maroonish color plug going into it and has two vacuum lines coming off one side and a little filter thing on the other side. The other is a blueish green color to it and has one line on each side. Then the bvsv is right under the radiator hose and on the plenum right above the cold start timing switch and water temp switch. And screws into it and has two vac lines coming off it. Please help really wanna figure out why i need to have the timeing advanced just to make it sound decent.

Thanks for reading this and any help that is given

fireman1559

the maroon and bluegreenish one that you are talkin about im pretty sure those are for the ADD

myyota

Are you sure you got the vacuum leak fixed ?, are all the vacuum hoses hooked up properly ?, How many miles on the engine and has the timming chain ever been replaced ?, just throwing out ideas.

desertcamper67

Welcome to Yotatech.

What is a brake fluid trick. Do you mean spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner around in search of the vaccuum leak? Or something altogether different?

Kiroshu

may have crossed some vac lines in the put back together phase? How did it run before that timing advance... did it seem to miss fire? Stall? Idle speed set correctly? You didn't cross the wire for the Coolant Temp sensor and cold start time switch did you? That will cause huge issues and may be your prob. Throttle body leaks? main intake hose leak? More info man.

toyota4x4907

ADD didnt come along until '89 and those are on the passenger side wheelwell in the engine compartment.

The maroonish one is for the PAIR/ Air Injection system. Trust me, I know. I had a headache with it when I first bought my '88 4runner 22re. The BVSV should be for the charcoal canister I believe.

I bet your engine was timed and adjusted to compensate for this air leak. Once you closed off this air course, the engine is no longer getting enough air so you have to open the throttle. Clean out your TB, idle control valve, make sure the AFM is working correctly and that the timing is correct.

justsobuff

ok just bought the truck last week. Kid had it in Colorado and now is here in iowa. He didnt know anything about trucks and said it kept over heating. So i got it and the radiator was way way low so filled it up which fixed that. So before i fixed the leak( which i found by shooting break cleaner and listened for the idle to raise or lower.But before that it didnt want to stay started for about the first 5 min or so.. Almost 100% forsure that the vac lines got put back in the right spot. I had a mechanic helping me with it. But it was out of time before as well. Im just really confused and not forsure if just those sensors would make it do that much diffence on the timing. As for the throttle body leak . how would i check for that? but im pretty sure the hose from the valve cover to t intake are fine.

justsobuff

great info toyota4x4907 only thing is lol i dont know what you mean by so you have to open the throttle. Clean out your TB, idle control valve, make sure the AFM is working correctly and that the timing is correct. and to clean out the TB which im guessing you mean throttle body .. how would i clean that out. But i did try to set the time where its suppose to be at 5 deg and it ran like dog crap. and what is AFM?

Kiroshu

yea i'm guessing the just like toyota4x4907 said. The issue prob existed long before you got the truck and the truck was tuned for the vac leak now that the leak is fixed the poor 22re is like wtf!?! But anyway it sounds like the idle speed is set too low try adjusting it. Idle speed on a 22re should be about 750-800 but if you want anything bellow 1000 is good.

toyota4x4907

OOf sorry. I didnt know you didnt know terminology

TB= Throttle Body, in this instance.
AFM= Air Flow Meter. Its on top of the air box.
I meant to keep it running you had to press the pedal, which opens the throttle plate in the throttle body.
You can use some injector cleaner to clean the throttle body. I use SeaFoam and have had great success. Always makes my truck run better if I havent done it in a while. There are other options of course. It can be picked up at local parts stores (Schucks, NAPA, etc). To get a thorough cleaning, take the throttle body off (pretty easy, just some hoses and screws) clean it with any kind of engine cleaner or soap even. Clean out the idle control valve or the air by-pass valve (essentially the same thing I do believe) Its on the bottom of the TB and what allows air in at idle/cold starts.

toyota4x4907

I meant to mention that as well. That could very well be the problem itself. Might not even need cleaning. The idle control screw is on the passenger's side of the throttle body. its a flat head screw about the size of a nickel. After you get the idle speed around 750-1000, adjust the timing...then adjust the idle speed with the screw accordingly..then timing..so on...until you get it correct

justsobuff

i had just done the seafoam today so we will see how that does.. as far as the idle speed . should i time it where its suppose to be ( as where the hood tells me to ) then adjust the idle to get it at 750? i had talked to a mechanic and he said your not really suppose to adjust it like that, never said why but thats the first thing i asked if we should just do it that way but he said no. is there a reason why you shouldnt do it that way?

Kiroshu

See thats why you don't talk to mechanics to talk to YOTATECH! You are supose to jump a few particular terminals to get base timing but if your not serious into it being exactly perfect don't bother.... if you know anything about engines sounding good then play it by ear. You are supose to play with the idle and timing to get it just right for you. The best thing to do if you don't wanna jump terminals cause i dunno which ones off the top of my head on the 88 i know the older runners... But um Adjust the idle to where you want it lets say 800 and then advance the timing to where it sounds best to you, most people don't know but the more the timing is advanced the more efficent the engine runs so it won't hurt to be advanced alil bit.

justsobuff

yah i did the jump terminal which on mine its in the dino box and its T and E1 but i swear it didnt do anything

Kiroshu

Jumping the terminals does not fix anything it just sets base timing so then you keep terminals jumped and then adjust idle.

justsobuff

well wish me luck... gonna try it all in the Am so hopefully i'll have a smoth running toy .. then i'll post a pic of the beast

justsobuff

well i tried to time it where it was suppose to be then adjust the idle to where it would be good.. but it was slugish as hell. So i advanced the timing to like 12 i think was right at the edge of the reader thing. then adjusted the idle down to make it run at 800. Not really slugish anymore but really doesnt sound all that great sounds decent . but kinda shakes while idleing.