Ok so I installed a new clutch and went to test it out and it would not disengage. After finding out I had put the clutch disk in backwards, I took the tranny back off, turned the disk around and reinstalled. Now I still have the same problem. I crank the truck go to put it in gear and it won't go. There is a slight whiney noise when trying to push into gear. Any ideas?

 

Just curious what was wrong with the clutch you needed to change.

When you say it doesn`t go. Do you mean it will not go into gear ??

It goes in gear but doesn`t move??

 

It won't go into gear when cranked. The throwout bearing was in horrible condition. The clutch started making horrible noise and during one rainy day the noisy got so bad it just stopped working. So I'm thinking that the throwout bearing may be installed wrong now. Can someone give me a picture or diagram showing how to install the clip and throwout bearing for 95 3vze?

 

Ok so after taking the transmission out for the third time, I noticed the clutch disk wasn't installed centered. So I centered the disk up and checked to see if the throwout bearing was installed properly. I remounted the transmission, installed a new slave cylinder. Bled the system, got in and cranked the truck, and yet I still have the same problem "truck won't go into gear while cranked." So I turned the truck off, put it in reverse, cranked back up, backed out the drive way. I then turned the truck back off, put it in first gear, cranked back up and took off. When driving, the truck will shift in and out of gear. It is a little harder then normal because the clutch is not fully disengaging. Now If i crank the truck in first and have the clutch mashed in, the truck creeps forward very slowly. So all I can think is a pedal adjustment. How exactly do I adjust the pedal on a 95 v6 3vze sr5 model pickup? There is a strange silver nut attached with a pin and carter key to the pedal, and on the other side there is a smaller brass nut. I'm guessing I just remove the pin and disconnect the forked silver nut and back it up or down the push rod and reconnect. If the clutch is not fully disengaging, which way should I go, tighten or loosen?

 

Are you sure the master and slave cylinders are good?

 

I replaced the slave and the master was working fine before the clutch went out. The master cylinder bleeds properlly and its working the pivot arm at the slave pretty well.

 

Look under the dash, at the clutch pedal. You'll see a clevis and pin connecting the clutch pushrod to the pedal. If you remove the pin and spin the clevis out a few turns, you'll be making the pushrod longer which in turn will make the release arm on the trans travel further, hopefully making the clutch fully disengage. You have to watch out though that you don't adjust it too far out causing the clutch to slip.

 

The first thing you need to check is for a cracked clutch pedal bracket. Do it while the clutch is depressed & under stress. If that's not it, I'd suspect a bent or broken fork in the bell housing.

 

If you can't get your trans out of gear on our v6 manuals and you just installed a new clutch, there is a really good chance you installed it backwards. That's the symptom installing it backwards would have.

 

ok well i've inspected the pedal and didn't see any cracks. Pedal adjustment didn't fix the problem. The forks looked fine when taking the tranny out the 3rd time I checked them. The disk is not in backwards. I'm starting to think that maybe it wasn't a problem with any of the stuff I replaced. I replaced the throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate and clutch disk. The old throwout bearing was in very bad shape and I was sure that was the problem. The whole system is acting as it was when it first went out, before I made any replacements. All I can think is that maybe the Master Cylinder has gone bad and is the culprit. Maybe that worn out throwout bearing wasn't the main problem after all.

 

I've been looking around for answers for the past two days and haven't came across anything. I was wondering if maybe I didn't tighten the pressure plate down enough causing the teeth not to go in far enough to release the clutch. I've seen a few pics of installed pressure plates on the net and it seems the teeth are flat or slightly angled in. I know when I was tightening mine, the flywheel would turn with me, but I was sure I had them tightened down fully. The teeth seemed to be angeled out slightly if I remember.

 

Someone had a similar problem recently & it turned out to be broken springs in the clutch.

 

well afer installing the clutch disk backwards, I took the tranny off and turned the disk around and the springs looked ok. Maybe the kit got messed up from trying to put it in gear with it in backwards. Just a thought. I'm going to replace the mastercylinder today. I was thinking that maybe since the clutch kit is new and strong, the mastercylinder might be to worn out to do its job.

 

i have the same problem to i got a new transmission put it up once with a new slave cylinder and still no go same symtons cant shift into any gear when on so i took it off the second time i bought a new MC put the tranny up and still no go i took it down a third time this time i got a new clutch kit and i gonnaa try it again soon.

 

i adjusted the clutch pedal it didnt do anything for me but i have seen a post that this guy put a half longer push rod on the slave cylinder and it solved all his problems i came to aconclusion thinking that the rod is not pushing the fork far enough


PLease some one give me suggestings

 

^^my first thought

 

I found that when I replaced the master cylinder, there were several different length rods that come through the firewall. If it's too short, it'll make adjustment impossible!