Temp rises/falls on how I drive. Buncha questions (t-stat, fan clutch, e-fan swap)
01-22-2011, 08:35 AM
#1
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Temp rises/falls on how I drive. Buncha questions (t-stat, fan clutch, e-fan swap)
I've had this issue for a while, but I've tried to "drive" around it. I'm tired of doing that and want to fix it. See sig for rig specs.
Basically, the temp gauge goes up and down depending how and where I'm driving. On the the highway, it can't get past the 1/4 mark. If I hit 2-3 red lights in a row or sit in traffic, the temp would probably keep climbing past the 3/4 mark if I let it (so far I've either hit open road or arrived at my destination before that happens). But more than anything else, the truck HATES being started warm. Like, if I stop at the store, run in to get something, and return before the engine's really cooled much. When that happens, the temp rises a tad past 3/4 until I'm on the open road again, where it cools down quickly. Nevertheless, these temp rises are distressing, and I'd like to be able to let my truck sit at idle again.
I try not to post without searching first, and after doing so I suspect the t-stat and the fan clutch. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Before anyone screams HEAD GASKET!, there is no oil in the coolant or visa versa, and no exhaust smoke, so I doubt it. Also, coolant level is perfect.
About the t-stat, what temp t-stat should I get; 160, 170, 180, or 192?
About the fan clutch, if someone can confirm that what I described is a fan clutch problem, I'm not gonna bother with another one. I'd just do the e-fan conversion. I've browsed the Mercury Villager e-fan thread, and that seems like a good option. I believe I would also need an e-fan t-stat to run the fan. Aside from those two items, fan and e-fan t-stat, would I need anything else? I would still have to run a regular t-stat with the e-fan one, correct?
There are three adjustable e-fan t-stat available from Autozone, ranging from $17 to $73:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...267187_9581_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...326161_9583_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...467214_9584_0_
Which one of these would the wise men of Yotatech suggest?
Any other info regarding the issue I'm having would be appreciated. Thanks for reading!
Basically, the temp gauge goes up and down depending how and where I'm driving. On the the highway, it can't get past the 1/4 mark. If I hit 2-3 red lights in a row or sit in traffic, the temp would probably keep climbing past the 3/4 mark if I let it (so far I've either hit open road or arrived at my destination before that happens). But more than anything else, the truck HATES being started warm. Like, if I stop at the store, run in to get something, and return before the engine's really cooled much. When that happens, the temp rises a tad past 3/4 until I'm on the open road again, where it cools down quickly. Nevertheless, these temp rises are distressing, and I'd like to be able to let my truck sit at idle again.
I try not to post without searching first, and after doing so I suspect the t-stat and the fan clutch. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Before anyone screams HEAD GASKET!, there is no oil in the coolant or visa versa, and no exhaust smoke, so I doubt it. Also, coolant level is perfect.
About the t-stat, what temp t-stat should I get; 160, 170, 180, or 192?
About the fan clutch, if someone can confirm that what I described is a fan clutch problem, I'm not gonna bother with another one. I'd just do the e-fan conversion. I've browsed the Mercury Villager e-fan thread, and that seems like a good option. I believe I would also need an e-fan t-stat to run the fan. Aside from those two items, fan and e-fan t-stat, would I need anything else? I would still have to run a regular t-stat with the e-fan one, correct?
There are three adjustable e-fan t-stat available from Autozone, ranging from $17 to $73:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...267187_9581_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...326161_9583_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...467214_9584_0_
Which one of these would the wise men of Yotatech suggest?
Any other info regarding the issue I'm having would be appreciated. Thanks for reading!
01-22-2011, 08:56 AM
#2
Registered User
Sounds like a fan clutch issue to me. Especially when your temp only goes up when in traffic but not on the highway where you have more airflow to the radiator. If the clutch is good, then when you start the truck when cold, you should definitely hear the fan turning for like maybe 10-15 seconds maybe even slightly longer depending on outside temp. Then go "off". If you cannot hear the fan on cold start, then the clutch is bad.
Some will say just check the resistance on the fan by turning it by hand, but unless you know what a good clutch feels like then that method is useless.
P.S. these symptoms can also be a combo of cooling efficiency of the radiator, failing water pump, old coolant etc etc as well.
Some will say just check the resistance on the fan by turning it by hand, but unless you know what a good clutch feels like then that method is useless.
P.S. these symptoms can also be a combo of cooling efficiency of the radiator, failing water pump, old coolant etc etc as well.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 01-22-2011 at 08:57 AM.
01-22-2011, 12:57 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
xxxtreme- I haven't noticed a roar on startup, next time I drive I've listen closer, though. Also, the rad was just replaced just over a year ago and the coolant with it, so I guess those can be eliminated.
BigBlue- I did not know the fan clutch can be rebuilt. Writeup?
Pruney- That's why I don't plan on replacing the fan clutch. For $70, if I use the $35 e-fan t-stat (middle link in 1st post) and find a junkyard e-fan for <$35, I can just do the e-fan swap, which is a better all-around system. Considering I can do either for the same price, wouldn't the e-fan be the better choice, or am I missing something? Dual stage t-stat looks like a good investment, though.
BigBlue- I did not know the fan clutch can be rebuilt. Writeup?
Pruney- That's why I don't plan on replacing the fan clutch. For $70, if I use the $35 e-fan t-stat (middle link in 1st post) and find a junkyard e-fan for <$35, I can just do the e-fan swap, which is a better all-around system. Considering I can do either for the same price, wouldn't the e-fan be the better choice, or am I missing something? Dual stage t-stat looks like a good investment, though.
01-22-2011, 03:12 PM
#6
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no, you're right, I didn't look at your links. If you think the e fan will be better go for it. I just like to keep my truck stock and it's easier for me to just replace the clutch and be done with it. Your plan sounds like it will work out well. I guess I need to pay more attention before I post.
01-22-2011, 04:28 PM
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i did the electric fan swap.i think it was all worth the 3 trips i took to the junkyard[for broken fans=( my luck..]
for my temp controller,i picked one up from oreilly auto parts for 18.99. works pretty good.
my runner's throttle response is better,and so is its power curve[butt test]. this is on a 3.superslow.
goodluck.
for my temp controller,i picked one up from oreilly auto parts for 18.99. works pretty good.
my runner's throttle response is better,and so is its power curve[butt test]. this is on a 3.superslow.
goodluck.
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